Ulysse Nardin Monopusher Chronographs Ref. 386-88 Overview

quattro · 2025-03-09T16:41:12Z

Explore Ulysse Nardin monopusher chronographs, including the Ref. 386-88 and 175th Anniversary edition, featuring THA-designed movements and vintage Valjoux calibers.

quattro

WPS member · Ulysse Nardin forum

36 replies6088 views68 photos

Emmanuel (quattro) presents a captivating journey through Ulysse Nardin's monopusher chronograph history, showcasing eight distinct models from the 1920s to the late 1990s. His detailed visual compilation, arranged in reverse chronological order, highlights the brand's enduring commitment to this intricate complication. This post serves as an invaluable resource for collectors and enthusiasts seeking to understand the evolution and technical artistry behind Ulysse Nardin's monopusher chronographs.

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Just sharing these eight nice looking Monopusher Chronographs by Ulysse Nardin presented in reverse chronological order.

Best,

Emmanuel

FROM THE LATE 1990s (the three models below are powered by cal. UN-38 designed by THA, a company founded by F.P. Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter)

1/ Ref. 386-88 in rose gold with black dial

Watch by Ulysse Nardin, Monopusher Chronographs

credit: minh authentic

2/ Ref. 386-88 in yellow gold with silver dial

credit: hairsping

3/ Ref. 386-22 175th anniversary edition from 1998 in rose gold with silver dial with red scale and anniversary marking & solid case back

credit: romain réa

B/ FROM THE 1940s (three models with a Valjoux caliber: Valjoux 22 for the first model, Valjoux 13 for the second one & Valjoux 22 for the third one with black dial)

credit: vintage view

credit: bulang & sons

C/ FROM THE 1930s (unspecified caliber)

credit: mejicat on reddit

D/ FROM THE 1920s (Valjoux 22 caliber)

credit: gli orologi di oldtime2013 on eBay

Review of the ref. 386-88 by Tim Mosso

Key Points from the Discussion

The Ulysse Nardin Ref. 386-88 and 386-22 models from the late 1990s are particularly noteworthy for their Caliber UN-38 movements, which were designed by THA, a company co-founded by F.P. Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter.
The open-ended leather straps, secured by double metal plates, are designed for cases with fixed bars, offering a unique and secure attachment method.
Despite varying opinions on Ulysse Nardin as a brand, the monopusher chronographs, especially the rose gold with black dial Ref. 386-88, are widely appreciated for their aesthetic appeal and design.
A collector shares a personal anecdote of owning a Ulysse Nardin monopusher chronograph for many years, underscoring the enduring appeal and satisfaction these pieces provide.

The Discussion

Bill

Mar 9, 2025

Wonderful selection. Each has its own charm. And I guess it is a tool watch of sorts.

quattro

Mar 9, 2025

Thank you, Bill. I really like these models too,

even if I know very little about UN. And yes, a chronograph can be useful sometimes!

NautNut

Mar 9, 2025

UN's golden years IMO

Is that an early spring bar on one of the straps?

quattro

Mar 9, 2025

I know too little about UN, but I really like these pieces.

Are you talking about the way the strap on two models is held by two metal plates?

quattro

Mar 9, 2025

No, I think these open-ended leather straps

fixed by a double metal plate are made for cases with fixed bars. You can check this article on Fratello . And you can buy some online easily. credit: handdn bespoke watch straps

NautNut

Mar 9, 2025

Interesting, I wasn't aware of these.

Thank you!

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Ulysse Nardin Monopusher Chronographs Ref. 386-88 Overview

Key Points from the Discussion

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