MichaelC offers a detailed 'refresher' on the Ulysse Nardin Anniversary 160, a watch that has returned to his collection and continues to inspire admiration. His post delves into the watch's distinctive design, technological innovations, and overall significance as a rare and unique piece in Ulysse Nardin's history. This article serves as a comprehensive appreciation of the Anniversary 160, highlighting its artistic and technical merits.
Now back in my collection for about 2 months, the Ulysse Nardin Anniversary 160 has again made me admire the passion behind real watchmaking. In many ways, this watch has remained a novelty since its original release in 2006. It is as original as ever, and a very iconic and important piece for UN. And since the Caliber 160 has not been used beyond the 1000 samples of this watch (500 WG, 500 RG), it will always be rare and unique.
Always the most alluring aspect of this watch for me has been the case. Oval from left to right, curved from front to back. A meticulously brushed caseband set inside the polished edge of the bezel and case bottom. Luminous dots positioned on the bezel's inner wall, which also varies in thickness from front to back as it meets the flat dial. Truly the work of an artist, not just a milling machine.
The dial is a bit polarizing with its offset date and adjacent "fish shaped" cutout window. Well, that does not bother me, this is a marine inspired chronometer after all!
The vertical striping in that cutout and in the circular cutout for the sub seconds dial below (wrapped in another oval, of course) is striking. Depending upon the viewing angle, the stripes mute to a dark blue or become more bright and alive, which is a nice contrast to the remainder of the dial, which is a very flat blue. I remember in UN's marketing campaign they referred to "lifting the curtain" on the manufacture's first completely in-house designed and built base caliber. The curtain reference is very apropos, as the dial has the look of an opera curtain. The white gold numerals also curve from end to end, being thickest in the middle. They too reflect light in a manner different from any other watch I have tried.
I seem to recall the dial plaques are also executed in white gold, as well as the uniquely shaped hands. The polished gold case parts are really exceptional. I have only one other white gold watch to compare to, and the UN seems to have a much higher luster. Really beautiful.
Of course much of the greatness of this Anniversary watch is the Caliber 160 movement. It utilizes the Dual Ulysse Escapement, which requires no lubrication. In addition to the escapement technology, the movement is extremely user friendly. The quick date adjuster can be moved forward or backwards. There is no play in the hands when you pull the crown to adjust the time. It is very easy to set precisely. The power reserve is 50 hours, so you can wear this one every other day without worry of it stopping. And when it does, it is very fast and easy to reset.
The rotor is also very cool on this watch, with a blue lacquer "160" inlay featuring the UN anchor. The rest of the rotor has a unique hatched guilloche.
There is very much to like about this watch, its creativity and uniqueness, its technology, its finishing, the included accessories, etc. But the best thing to say is that on the wrist, this watch is very special. Always always exciting to wear. I'm sure happy to have it back in the fold.
