Ulysse Nardin Diver Perpetual Ref. 333-90 Limited Edition

Marcus Hanke · 2009-09-01T02:12:30Z

Explore the Ulysse Nardin Diver Perpetual Limited Edition Ref. 333-90, combining a robust dive watch with a revolutionary perpetual calendar. Discover its unique features and collector debate.

Marcus Hanke

WPS member · Ulysse Nardin forum

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Marcus Hanke introduces the Ulysse Nardin Diver Perpetual Limited Edition, a timepiece that boldly merges the brand's acclaimed Perpetual Calendar complication with a robust dive watch aesthetic. This article explores the technical innovations that allow a perpetual calendar to function reliably in a sports watch, challenging traditional notions of watch utility and design. Hanke's initial post highlights the watch's unique features and the underlying horological advancements.

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Diver Perpetual Limited Edition - The Best of Both Worlds.

Ulysse Nardin proudly presents the Diver Perpetual Limited Edition, a timepiece combining strong aesthetic and technical elements from the Marine and Perpetual Collections - the Best of both Worlds.

The Ulysse Nardin Perpetual represented a revolutionary accomplishment in the history of watch making – the first Perpetual Calendar adjustable back and forwards from a single crown. All adjustments from the minute hand to the year indicator are synchronized. A few rotations of the crown will result in the calendar displays moving forwards or backwards one or more days, a few months or even several years. At the end of the month the date display automatically displays the first of the next month, while the month disc rotates as well. On December 31, date, day, month and year advance together. The calendar can also be adjusted backwards. The quick setting device is so ingenious that all corrections are performed over a single crown. In the year 2100 when other Perpetual Calendar watches will need to be returned to their manufacturer, Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendars will function normally; the day indicator can be adjusted independently.
The oversized date display offers easy reading. It consists of two discs, a Maltese cross for the tens and a ring for the units. Both rotate on the same level and together form the double digit date display.

The 45 mm titanium case is individually numbered with a screw-crown and sapphire crystal. The exhibition case back affords a view of the movement equipped with a 22 ct. white gold rotor. Water-resistant to 200 m. The black carbon fiber structured dial with orange luminous indexes and hands coordinates perfectly with the turning bezel with its exclusive orange inlay.

The Diver Perpetual Limited Edition – born of the dream of an everyday sport timepiece with the functionality of a high complication timepiece.

A Limited Edition of 500 pieces.

Technical data

Ref. 333-90
Movement Caliber UN-33
Power-Reserve Approx. 48 h
Winding Self-winding chronometer movement with official rating certificate (C.O.S.C).
Functions Perpetual Calendar adjustable over single crown. Big date in double window at 2 o’clock. Small seconds at 9 o’clock.
Case Titanium
Bezel Stainless steel unidirectional rotating
Dial Carbon fiber structure
Diameter 45 mm
Water-resistance 200 m
Crystal Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Crown screw down security crown
Bracelet Rubber/titanium strap with folding buckle and stainless steel bracelet
Limitation Limited edition of 500 pieces

Key Points from the Discussion

The concept of a perpetual calendar in a diving watch is considered ludicrous by some, despite the technical marvel of Dr. Ludwig Oechslin's mechanism, which is designed for stability.
Marcus Hanke defends the Diver Perpetual, arguing that Oechslin's calendar mechanism, with its minimal parts and robust design, is well-suited for a sports watch, perhaps even more so than a chronograph.
The discussion extends to the broader utility of dive watches, with Marcus Hanke suggesting that most are not used for actual diving, making the integration of a complication less contradictory to real-world use.
A collector expresses a dislike for carbon fiber, bright orange accents, rubber bands, and large watch sizes, indicating a preference for more classic aesthetics.
The 45mm case size is noted as large, but the extra real estate is welcomed for a perpetual calendar. The orange 12 and 6 on the carbon dial are found alluring, though some prefer older bezel and crown styles.
While appreciating the titanium case and the perpetual calendar movement, some find the orange touches on the dial and the 45mm size to be excessive, preferring previous versions with blue or carbon fiber black dials.

The Discussion

amanico

Sep 1, 2009

While I love the use of titanium on such a watch

I actually prefer the previous version, when it came with a blue or carbon fiber black dial... The orange touches on the dial, are, to me, a bit too much... And 45 mm... On another side, the UN perpetual calendar is an awesome watch! Thanks for sharing. Best, Nicolas

justpen

Sep 1, 2009

Hi Nicholas,

Hi, I don't like to be negative, so not being into Carbon fiber, bright orange bezel or orange dial additives, or rubber bands.... and being a believer that big watches have passed their Fad... I will decline to make any comment Having said that I have a lot of respect for UN and still have my eye on that low numbered UN 160 Anniversary with it's included and separately boxed chronometer. Kindest regards, Jack

amanico

Sep 1, 2009

Hey, Jack,

That is a great one! The 160 Anniversary is really awesome! Take pics asap, my friend. Best, Nicolas

Ronald Held

Sep 1, 2009

Too large and the dial does not appeal to me. (nt)

MichaelC

Sep 1, 2009

I find the orange 12 and 6 on the carbon dial alluring.

45mm is a large case. I think UN's 42.7mm case is perfect, but on a perpetual calendar the extra real estate is welcomed. I also prefer the older style bezels and crowns. I would love to see a new model based upon this design, with the 12 and 6 and maybe a big date and sub seconds. Perhaps a simple piece based upon the caliber 160.

DRMW

Sep 1, 2009

Nicely done!

IMO, The contrast of the carbon dial and orange looks great. The wave pattern on the bezel is a nice touch. Thanks for the pics! -MW