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Marcus Hanke's preview of the Ulysse Nardin Dual Time Manufacture from Baselworld 2014 remains highly relevant, showcasing a pivotal moment for the brand. This article delves into Ulysse Nardin's commitment to in-house movement development and the innovative features of the UN-334 caliber. Hanke's detailed look at the watch's functionality and design provides valuable context for understanding Ulysse Nardin's trajectory in contemporary watchmaking.

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Dual Time Manufacture.

Marcus Hanke · 2014-01-22T02:45:50Z

Explore the Ulysse Nardin Dual Time Manufacture from Baselworld 2014. Discover its in-house UN-334 caliber, silicon escapement, and unique dual time functionality.

Born from an iconic line, the Dual Time Manufacture enables the second time zone and date to be adjusted both forward and backward. Like the Marine collection, it is now equipped with a movement that has been developed and manufactured entirely in-house by Ulysse Nardin.

Never before had a watchmaker so perfectly fulfilled the desire for comfort of frequent travelers and explorers. Part of an iconic Ulysse Nardin collection, the launch of the Dual Time Manufacture was a significant milestone in the history of contemporary watchmaking. For the first time, it was possible to adjust the second time zone forward as well as backward. Now, this incredible timepiece returns equipped with an automatic movement that has been developed, designed and manufactured entirely in-house: caliber UN-334. Endowed with a Big Date double window display, also adjustable in both directions, it boasts a silicon escapement, the height of watchmaking technology that very few brands are able to master.

Independence through innovation: the Ulysse Nardin Manufacture constantly pursues the steep but extraordinarily worthwhile path it chose to take a few years ago. Offering hours, minutes, oversized small seconds at 6 o’clock, a big date double window display and second time zone functions, the Dual Time Manufacture is without doubt one of the easiest watches to read and adjust on the market. While the “home time” indicator advances steadily over 24 hours in an aperture at 9 o’clock, the small hand can easily be aligned with local time, either forward or backward. This is achieved simply by pressing the (+) or (-) pushers positioned at 10 o'clock and 8 o’clock, without having to remove the watch from the wrist or interrupting its timekeeping. The ultimate in mechanical refinement, the calendar function automatically synchronizes with adjustments made in either direction.

Behind this simplicity of use – a true lesson in functionality – the Manufacture caliber UN-334 deploys the results of many years of research. Featuring a 48-hour power reserve, it is equipped with a silicon anchor, escape wheel and roller. The 4 Hz oscillator also has a patented 1.1.1. silicon balance spring, guaranteeing impressive accuracy. Having made its watchmaking début a little over 10 years ago thanks to the pioneering efforts of Ulysse Nardin, this highly contemporary material requires hardly any lubrication and resists wear more than any other. Complex to work with, its manufacturing techniques remain the prerogative of just a handful of watchmakers. The self-winding movement, a technological gem, is showcased through a sapphire case-back.

The bold modernity of this outstanding timepiece is complemented by a few classic touches, for an air of casual elegance. Water resistant to 30 m, its completely redesigned 42 mm-diameter case is available in steel or 18 ct rose gold, mounted on a leather strap or a steel or rose gold bracelet with deployment buckle. While ensuring perfect readability, the openwork hour and minute hands that sweep around the black or silver-finish dial add a delicate, light touch that characterizes truly timeless watches. This chameleon-like piece is equally suited to a day in town or an important occasion.

Technical Data.

Ref. 3346-126-91

Movement Caliber UN-334, 11 ¾‘’’ In-house designed movement Escapement in Silicium Oscillator: patented inertial balance wheel I 8 with silicium hairspring 49 jewels
Power-Reserve Approximately 48 h
Winding Self-winding
Functions patented quickset 2nd time display at 9 o’clock Permanent home time at 9 o’clock Big Date display, forward and backward date corrector Oversized small seconds-hand counter Case 18 ct gold or stainless steel
Crown Water-resistant
Diameter 42 mm
Water-Resistance 30 m
Crystal Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-Back Sapphire crystal
Bracelet Leather strap with folding buckle or stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp

Press release

This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2014-01-22 02:46:38

Key Points from the Discussion

The Dual Time Manufacture, with its movement upgrades and aesthetic improvements, is considered a significant step forward for Ulysse Nardin, marking a period of renewed brand momentum.
Ulysse Nardin's designs often feature a unique 'dissonance' that blends classic and unconventional elements, contributing to the brand's distinct appeal.
A key question arose regarding the reduction of water resistance to 30m in the new Dual Time Manufacture, compared to the previous stainless steel version's 100m.
The appearance of the UN Certification seal on the movement suggests a potential shift towards self-certification, moving away from or complementing COSC certification.
The transition to in-house movements, like the UN-334, is seen as a positive strategic direction for Ulysse Nardin, moving away from ETA-based calibers.
The new Dual Time Manufacture is praised for its superb aesthetic and mechanical improvements, aligning with Ulysse Nardin's efforts to harmonize its collection.

The Discussion

nilomis

Jan 22, 2014

Thank you Marcus ...

It seems that UN is heading on a proper direction, making movements "in house" and removing the ETA. I had one ETA based Dual Time and I miss it. Sometimes (or most of the times) I do silly moves. The black dialed SS is a great object of desire. Cheers, Nilo

Ronald Held

Jan 22, 2014

Marcus thanks for that preview. (nt)

MichaelC

Jan 22, 2014

Excellent! Improved all around to my eyes.

In addition to the movement upgrades, this is UN's first dual time watch that really tempts me. It's gorgeous. It has design attributes similar to the "Perpetual Manufacture" as they call the new watch on their website. Photo from our own Fx: I must say, Ulysse Nardin has reestablished its momentum these past few years, and that is very exciting for us UN fans :-)

amanico

Jan 22, 2014

Improved mechanically, and also aesthetically.

A superb look. Well done, U.N. Best, Nicolas This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-01-22 08:13:13

Bodo

Jan 22, 2014

Looks great... Anyone know the MSRP for the steel version?

Great watch, useful complications, inhouse movement and good size. Love the design, in particular with black dial. Does anyone know the MSRP? This might be the first UN that makes it on my wish list.

MrkK

Jan 23, 2014

I am glad Ulysse Nardin kept the classic design of dual time...

I guess I will be upgrading my dual times soon. Marcus, I have one question though: any reason UN reduced the water resistance to 30m? The previous version (at least stainless steel one ) had 100m water resistance .