Ulysse Nardin SIHH 2017 Enamel Dials & Novelties
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Ulysse Nardin SIHH 2017 Enamel Dials & Novelties

By KIH · Jan 20, 2017 · 63 replies
KIH
WPS member · Ulysse Nardin forum
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KIH's comprehensive report from SIHH 2017 offers a vital look into Ulysse Nardin's strategic direction, particularly its emphasis on in-house manufacturing, innovation, and traditional savoir-faire. This article highlights the brand's significant commitment to enamel dials through its acquisition of DonzΓ© Cadrans, a move that resonated strongly with collectors and marked a new chapter for Ulysse Nardin at the prestigious exhibition.

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Honestly, the dials of Ulysse Nardin novelties left me speechless (considering the quality + price).  You have to see to believe it. 

This is the first time for Ulysse Nardin to display at SIHH.

  


Their theme/ forte has been always something marine, such as yacht.



At the press conference, they emphasized THREE basics of Ulysse Nardin:
1. Manufacture
2. Innovation
3. Savoire-faire (know how)

They make almost everything themselves including the hair spring.  The only brand at SIHH that has technology to make silicium hair springs.  And it now has Donze Cadrans who can do Enamel Grand Feu, Champleve, and Cloisonne.  It is well known that Donze Cadrans used to provide enamel dials to Patek as well.

Now all Ulysse Nardin watches come with 5 year warranty.

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Below are the offerings from Ulysse Nardin - some taken at the press conference, some at the appointment time.


Diver Chronograph "Artemis Racing"
45.8mm, LE of 250








InnoVision 2 - couldn't get closer than this, sorry!




Classico Rooster - Enamel, Champleve.
40mm, LE of 88.



Jade Underworld
Cloisonne dial.  36mm x 39mm
Also known as "easy for lady's nail", meaning you wouldn't have to "pull" the crown, where/when your nail may be damaged, but instead, pusher on the crown can let you choose the function of the crown - Date change, Time change, Winding.  Those small diamonds, different sizes, indicates which function the crown would perform now.  Good for guys, eh?





Jade Grand Feu.
Same function.




Marine Annual Calendar Chronometer.
43mm





Yup, "Grand Feu".




Now, this can be controversial.
Marine Tourbillon.
43mm













With Tourbillon and Grand Feu enamel dial - EUR30,000, more or less......








Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar.
43mm







Classic Dual Time
42mm




See "T/D/W" indicator?  The same function for "easy for nail" as lady's model above.





"Dual Time" works as the pushers on the left side moves the hour hand go forward/ back.




The pusher on the crown lets you choose the function of the crown.





And, one of the highlights of this year.

Marine "Regatta".
44mm
This is pretty interesting.  It counts down from between 1 and 10 minutes.  So, good for the race which counts down, start and the stop watch must work counting "up", such as yacht.
650 parts
3 days power reserve.







Regatta "Black Enamel Champleve" version.  LE of 35.




Now, let's see how it works.



Please understand that this working prototype has been in use like this for too many times smile)  But very delicate mechanism, I am sure.



Classico Enamel.
Beautiful blue enamel, on guilloche pattern.
Date really ruins, and the shape of the hands.....  Would love it if I could customize a bit.





40mm - size-wise, very nice.




Even for lady's, so nice.  Enamel on guilloche pattern.








Here are some re-issue of the vintage pieces.

Classic Marin Torpilleur
41mm








Classic Diver Locle
1964 vintage model.  38mm -> 42mm








Classic Perpetual Ludwig
38mm -> 41mm






Classic Paul David Nardin
1945 Vintage
33m -> 39mm







Chiming + Automata

Hourstriker Pinup
(sorry, no video here smile))
43mm, LE of 28 for each RG and PT




North Sea Minute Repeater
42mm
LE of 18 for each RG and PT.











Let see/ hear how it does.



Sorry for the noisy surrounding.


Anyway, very, very interesting new line-up from Ulysse Nardin.
And I thank Ulysse Nardin and Sowind Japan for taking time showing these marvelous pieces to me.

Thank you very much!

Ken

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
MT
MTF
Jan 20, 2017
Some questions

Thanks Ken for the Report. Since the passing of our friend Rolf W. Schnyder, we have not been as "connected" to Ulysse Nardin. I still have my old watches like the still good Ulysse Nardin +/- GMT Perpetual Calendar...but nothing recently. 1) Since both Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin now belong to the same investment Group, will they only display at SIHH and be missing from Baselworld? 2) Who actually manages Ulysse Nardin now? Do we know him or her? Regards, MTF

KI
KIH
Jan 20, 2017
The answers...

1) Yes. The words on the street are that all the brands who are at SIHH, Richemont or non-Richemont, have signed NOT to participate in BaselWorld going forward. 2) I haven't had chances to greet him/ her. I will try to find out. Ken

MA
Marcus Hanke
Jan 23, 2017
Isn't it Patrik Hoffmann who is still CEO of UN? [nt]

KI
KIH
Jan 23, 2017
Okay, I will confirm..

... with my Japan contact.... Thanks for chiming in, Marcus, THE UN expert!

JO
Joepny
Jan 20, 2017
Fabulous report, thanks Ken

yes I think Mr. Thierry Stern will be shaking his head about the Marine Tourbillon. . How did the 43mm feel on your wrist - too big or about right? And the Diver re-issue looks interesting but it is too bad UN did not give it a grand feu email dial too. I\'m not kidding...ok maybe just a little. -joe

KI
KIH
Jan 20, 2017
Honestly, tourbillon, enamel dial - couldn't care much about the size!

.. but 43mm did feel a bit bigger than my usual taste. That said, this is much more than well worth it!

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