Ulysse Nardin Manufacture Visit & Donze Cadrans
Manufacture

Ulysse Nardin Manufacture Visit & Donze Cadrans

By M4 · Sep 29, 2017 · 24 replies
M4
WPS member · Ulysse Nardin forum
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M4 offers an exclusive look into the Ulysse Nardin manufacture in Le Locle and La Chaux-du-Fonds, providing a rare glimpse into the meticulous craftsmanship behind their timepieces. His photo report captures the essence of the brand's dedication to quality, from movement production to the artistry of enamel dials. This behind-the-scenes tour highlights the rigorous testing and traditional techniques that define Ulysse Nardin's horological excellence.

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A week ago I had the pleasure of spending an afternoon at the Ulysse Nardin facilities in Le Locle and La Chaux-du-Fonds (sp?).  My host couldn't have been more accommodating and the employees couldn't have been friendlier and more helpful.  The photos that follow don't do justice to the corps d'esprit of the visit, but they're as good as it gets with my limited photographic skills, haha!






Approaching Le Locle, which is in the French speaking part of Switzerland, just a few kilometers from France.




A prototype Freak Lab on the wrist of one of the designers.




Side-by-side with my Marine Tourbillion.




The photo shows the aftermath of an impact test (sorry, I haven't figured out how to post video). The pendulum hammerhead at top is dropped from chest height and strikes the fixture holding the movement. This is one of many movement tests and QC checks. Overall, I was impressed with the thorough QC measures at UN.




The next few slides show steps in the movement manufacturing process.




Note the sealed track (under the watchmaker's arm) carrying movements from station to station. It's very much like model train set in a sealed glass tunnel. I didn't appreciate until this visit the extreme measures taken to eliminate dust from contaminating a movement.




Regatta movements lined up in a tray. I was told that there's a big push to get the blue dial Regattas shipped out to dealers as there is quite a demand. 




Just a random pic of a beautiful enamel dial.




My tour included a visit to Donze Cadrans, the small shop where all of UN's enamel dials are made. Fired enamel is decidedly not a high-tech process, but very much an art form. There's a high failure rate, but the dials that pass are a thing of beauty.




Blue enamel. No two are the same.




Blue enamel dial for the Marine Annual Calendar. More on this watch later, but suffice to say it was one of my favorites of the day.




In the high complication shop was this mystery watch. My understanding is that this was a special order of eight watches that was cut short after three were made.      




Although I'm not usually a red gold guy, this watch was positively stunning. Note the cool open leaf hands that evoke the hands from the original Sonata.




Speaking of stunning, this Freak Cruiser certainly fits the description, even when worn upside-down! I have to join the MichaelC camp and say the Cruiser will be my Freak if I ever get one.




WG Freak Lab and RG Cruiser.




The Executive Tourbillion is sooooo much better in the flesh. But it wears every bit of its 46mm diameter.




The Executive Tourbillion is one of UN's best sellers, along with the Marine Tourbillion. Demand is very strong for these two models.




"Anchor Escapement." Another beautiful, limited edition model.






The "Stranger." I'd like this one more if I could actually hear "Strangers in the Night," but my 61 year old hearing simply couldn't pick up the tune (and to think until now I thought it was only my wife's voice I couldn't hear, haha). 




I just love this watch, the "Grand Deck."  All of the white metal pieces have been allocated to boutiques and/or customers.









RG Torpellieur. Very nice, but not an enamel dial.




RG Marine Chronograph.




I was blown away by this Marine Annual Calendar with blue guilloche dial. This is a VERY nice watch at an approachable price. 





I also like the hands on this one!




The end.


I wish to give a special thanks to Nelson for setting up my visit; to Annja for her invaluable assistance with travel logistics; and especially to Max for making his precious time available to me and giving a most thorough and enjoyable tour.

Hope you all enjoyed.

M4 

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The Discussion
PR
Pretty Boy
Sep 29, 2017
Great report, M4.

Thanks a lot for taking the time to put this together. Very interesting! Best, Volker

AL
Alkiro1
Sep 29, 2017
Many thanks for the guided tour

If I could own only one UN in the future, it would be a Freak without any doubt. A truly amazing watch. Best wishes Alkiro

CL
Clueless_Collector
Sep 29, 2017
Very nice virtual tour. Thanks for bringing it to us...our biggest enamel fan GLau will love those horses [nt]

NO
NoH
Sep 29, 2017
Thank you M4

That was a really great tour, and has reminded me of how much I want a Freak! The Diavolo model would be one of my top if-I-won-the-lottery choices 😉! All the best,

VI
vitalsigns
Sep 29, 2017
Awesome report and great photos.

Really shows UN's aesthetic breadth even while it retains horological substance. Cheers, John

MI
MichaelC
Sep 29, 2017
Extremely awesome, M4

I am so happy you were able to make this journey. Ulysse Nardin is a first class watch brand. On the Torpilleur, I think it is better without the enamel dial. More like the original ship's chronometers, and now with so many UN's featuring the enamel dial, it helps make for more of an entry model. Still gorgeous. Thanks for writing this report and sharing your experience with us!

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