MichaelC reflects on the Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver reference 266-33-3A/925, a rose gold variant, as Baselworld 2014 approaches. He shares his appreciation for this specific model, despite it no longer being in his collection, and speculates on the future integration of Ulysse Nardin's in-house Caliber 118 into the Diver series. MichaelC's post offers a detailed examination of the watch's distinctive design elements, from its monochrome bezel to its unique rubber strap with metal links.
As we begin to discuss Ulysse Nardin and Baselworld 2014, I think it is a good time to reflect upon the Maxi Marine Diver. Particularly, I will be discussing the 42.7mm Maxi Marine Diver reference 266-33-3A/925, a rose gold variant offered in a 42.7mm case. This particular reference is quite possibly my favorite Maxi Marine Diver offered by Ulysse Nardin.
Unfortunately, this watch is no longer in my collection. For years, I have attempted to love and maintain a colored gold watch within my budget. This Maxi Marine Diver lasted for a while, and I do miss it. Ulysse Nardin also offers the watch in the same size in steel with more traditional black and silver dials.
I feel it appropriate now to discuss the piece as it seems likely that Ulysse Nardin's in-house Caliber 118 will one day reach into the Diver collection. This year? Well, perhaps not, but it would seem logical to happen in the near future. And when it does, what will become of this "old" style Maxi Diver with its dimpled dial? Only time will answer that question, so for now let's examine this "current" model.
The main design elements have always been unique and appeal to me. The solid and monochrome bezel, the strap with its metal links, the case shape, etc.
A very distinctive looking dive watch. Certainly, it is fair to say a rose gold case is out of place on such a watch. But there is a fashion element to it, and when paired with this very special brown dial, it simply works.
Rose gold trim is abound, seen around the hour markers and subdials. The material is also used for the watch hands and indicators, as well as the majority of the dial text.
Small red touches are employed at the power reserve indicator and for the 1846 marker in the sub seconds dial. While I am normally not a fan of this sort of extra marking, I really like Ulysse Nardin's reference to the year in which the company was founded.
As mentioned earlier, the Maxi Diver case has its own distinctive profile. Tapered sidewalls make much of the case disappear when wearing it. Better said, when reading the time, you really only see the dial and bezel. Another Ulysse Nardin mainstay is seen on the left side of the case, the individually engraved case plaque, which bears the specific number of the sample. The bezel is very well executed here. It has a good amount of resistance when turning, but not too much. Very smooth and precise, as it should be. I always like these monochrome bezels too. The entire look changes when the decision is made to paint the 0-15 minute area or do something similar.
The rubber strap and metal links are a bit of a polarizing issue. I have always found immense comfort from the combination, and enjoy its unique look. Comfortable and pliable; it has no problem controlling the extra weight of the massive gold case.
An open caseback reveals a view of Ulysse Nardin's UN-26 automatic movement. The gold rotor is beautifully detailed with a fine gullioche and ULYSSE NARDIN marking.
A bit out of focus, you will notice the center blade of the double folding clasp is made of titanium. This material use never bothered me, and the outer parts of the clasp are finished in brushed gold to match the case and strap links.
This watch has a prideful soul. Like all other Ulysse Nardin's I have experienced, the build quality is impeccable. The high level of finish is readily apparent from holding it. Rotate the bezel, operate the crown, and secure the clasp, and you see that Ulysse Nardin really knows how to build a high end timepiece.
The most successful watches to me are mostly polarizing in design. Not always, but frequently. There are aspects of this Maxi Marine Diver that do not appeal to everyone. But the many unique details all add up to a very original take on a dive watch, and I find it quite enthralling. This particular version, with a metallic brown dial set in a gold case, is quite luscious.
If Ulysse Nardin does allow the in-house Caliber 118 to extend to the Diver series of watches, will they create a whole new timepiece? I certainly hope so. If they use the same design approach they did when they created the original Marine Divers, I think I will be quite pleased.
