Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Manufacture Caliber UN-32 Review

amanico · 2014-03-16T12:27:37Z

Amanico reviews the Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Manufacture from Baselworld 2014, highlighting its redesigned case, classic aesthetic, and user-friendly Caliber UN-32.

amanico

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Amanico provides an early look at the Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Manufacture, a key release from Baselworld 2014. This review highlights the watch's redesigned aesthetics while retaining the highly user-friendly Caliber UN-32, known for its ability to adjust the perpetual calendar both forwards and backwards via the crown.

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Foversta showed you a picture of an all new Perpetual Calendar during a cocktail held at the Ulysse Nardin Paris Boutique.

ulyssenardin.watchprosite.com

There was no press file at this time, for a good reason: The watch belongs to the Basel 2014 collection!

The case, dial, hands, crown and bezel are all redesigned, but this is a true, characteristic Ulysse Nardin Perpetual + GMT + Big Date.

The layout of the dial, the construction of the Perpetual Calendar + GMT is something very familiar for any Ulysse Nardin Fan, for the Perpetual Calendar lovers.

Which is not a surprise, since the movement is the same, the Cal U.N 32, already used for the former Perpetual Calendars.

The Cal UN-32:

I must say that I appreciate a lot UN Perpetual Calendars, as they are, in my opinion, the most friendly in the category.

Why? Simple! You can set the date forward and backward, without fear to break the movement, just by using the crown, while, on others, you have to use one or several pushers, and if you change the date during the " danger zone " time ( 9 PM / 3 AM ), you are done, your movement is broken, or at least, there are big chances it breaks.

Therefore, it is a GMT, which will be appreciated by the travelers among us.Here again, the two pushers on each side of the case makes it easy and friendly.

Nothing new, these specificities are shared by any Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendar GMT.

Which is new is the aesthetics. And I must say I am pleasantly surprised!

I had a problem with the model which was former to th " El Toro ". The case, the bezel and the hands were too close to the Sonata, in fact, they were the same.

So, if you already owned the Sonata, getting the Perpetual Calendar may be disturbing... It may be.

Here is a photo of this former Perpetual Calendar GMT, Ref 329-60:

With the El Toro, you don't have the problem of a too close aesthetical proximity with the Sonata, even the Sonata Streamline:

The El Toro has a strong personality, with an unvaoidable counterpart... It may not be eveybody's taste.

With the new Perpetual Calendar GMT, the register is different...

The case is more conventional, as big as the El Toro ( 43 mm ) but more conventional, consensual.

The lugs are deliciously shaped, the dial is more discrete than on the El Toro or the former version, the skeleted hands are thinner, and the bezel is more sober than before.

The infinity symbol just above the mention " Perpetual " is a nice detail, too.

Less exhuberant than the El Toro, it gains in elegance, what it looses in character.

It is a limited edition of 250 in Platinum, and 250 pieces in Rose Gold.

The Rose Gold version:

Here are the live pictures I could take thanks to the kindness of the Paris Boutique:

Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,

Best,

Nicolas

This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-03-16 12:31:44 This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-03-16 12:32:18 This message has been edited by pingtsai on 2014-03-16 15:26:32 This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-03-20 15:24:49

Key Points from the Discussion

The new 43mm Perpetual Manufacture, while appreciated for its classic design and refined rotor, is a significant size increase from the original 38mm, which some collectors still prefer.
The larger 43mm case with its massive crown and pushers gives the Perpetual Manufacture a powerful and masculine presence, appealing to those with larger wrists while maintaining the dial's sacred symmetry.
The Perpetual Manufacture offers a more consensual and classic aesthetic compared to other Ulysse Nardin perpetual calendars like the El Toro, making it attractive to collectors seeking practicality without an overly bold design.
The dial's guilloche and the overall refined, classy look of the Perpetual Manufacture are praised, particularly in platinum, for elevating this important complication.
Some collectors find the new hands and overall aesthetic of the Perpetual Manufacture to be 'too safe' for Ulysse Nardin, suggesting a departure from the brand's typically strong and unique design language.
The ability to set the perpetual calendar both forwards and backwards using only the crown, without fear of damaging the movement during the 'danger zone' hours, is a defining and highly valued feature of Ulysse Nardin's Caliber UN-32.

The Discussion

foversta

Mar 16, 2014

A more consensual timepiece...

The watch looks much more classic than the other PC watches of the collection even if it keeps obviously the original lay-out of the dial. But more consensual doesn't mean lack of character: the size of the bezel, the large pushers and crown give a quite powerful design to the watch. It was for me a very good surprise and it could attract collectors who look for the practical side of the movement without wearing a too bold piece like the Toro. Thanks for the presentation. Fx

amanico

Mar 17, 2014

I am quite seduced by this one, Fx.

More than by El Toro, to say all. And this way, it is not too close to the Sonata Design. Good. Best, Nicolas

Sandgroper

Mar 16, 2014

Thank you Nicolas, very nice pictures and nice....

little review. I agree with you in regard to the and the similarities with the Sonata, these hands are splendid in my opinion but as you say, they should have been "reserved" for the Sonata. The El Toro is not my cup of camomille;) This later iteration is very close to the first generation beside the hands and few other details, I like it very much. However, due to the size, 43mm is quite big for my wrist! I am still favouring the original 38mm one. Cheers Francois from Down Under

amanico

Mar 17, 2014

The 38 mm has a lot of charm, I must say. But this iteration is far from

Being uninteresting... Tea or Camomille? ;) Best, Nicolas

Sandgroper

Mar 17, 2014

Bonjour Nico, I agree, this iteration is very nice.....

I was only talking about the size. I really like the new dial and hands. Camomille, please;) Cheers Francois

amanico

Mar 17, 2014

5 mm difference, that counts a lot, for sure! [nt]

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