Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture Marine Annual Calendar SIHH 2017

amanico · 2017-02-13T04:45:55Z

Amanico reviews Ulysse Nardin s SIHH 2017 Classico Manufacture and Marine Annual Calendar Chronometer, comparing their designs, movements, and date display choices.

amanico

WPS member · Ulysse Nardin forum

34 replies11796 views3 photos

Amanico provides a comparative review of two Ulysse Nardin novelties from SIHH 2017: the Classico Manufacture and the Marine Annual Calendar Chronometer. The author critically examines their designs, movements, and complications, particularly focusing on the controversial placement and style of their date displays.

34 collectors discussing this on the WatchProSite forumJoin the Conversation →

For once, I will compare two novelties, which were unveiled a few week ago, at the SIHH.

The Classico Manufacture:

The Classico Manufacture houses the Cal UN 320 which is an automatic movement, with a silicium hair spring and anchor escapement, all in house, offering a power reserve of 48 hours and allowing a date setting forward AND backward, which is one of the brand's speciality.

The steel case is 40 mm big, and 9, 60 mm high, water resistant to 30 meters.

Last but not least, the dial is made in enamel grand feu.

The Marine Annual Calendar Chronometer:

Here we have another manual winding movement, the Cal UN 113, offering a power reserve of 60 hours, and, no surprise, a date setting of the annual calendar forward AND backward, as well.

The difference between the triple calendar, the annual calendar and the perpetual calendar is that, on the triple calendar, you have to change the date when the month doesn't end at 31, on the perpetual calendar, you never have to change the date, and on the annual calendar, you have to do it once in a year, at the end of February.

The UN 113 features a silicium escapement and spring.

The case is typical from the Marine line, with these absent lugs. It is in steel, 43 mm big, and water resistant to 100 meters, which is what you expect from a watch called " Marine ".

The dial is made in enamel grand feu, too.

Now, the comparative picture, and the reason why I decided to introduce both of them in the same post...

Between these two, the Classico Manufacture would have been my choice... If only there was no date spoiling this superb dial.

Indeed, I fell in love with the case, these superb lugs, its dimensions, and, of course, its dial. If only...

Now, curiously, the same round and simple date is present, at the same place on the Marine Annual Calendar. But here, it is logical, consistent with the purpose of the watch; as we are in presence of an annual calendar.

So, I am not disturbed by it.

Of course I would have preferred a Grande Date, rather than this simple one. But it is not shocking.

And this blue enamel grand feu is sumptuous.

What are your thoughts on these two?

Best.

Nicolas

Key Points from the Discussion

The enamel dials of both watches are praised as stunning. There is a consensus that the date is necessary on the Annual Calendar but detracts from the Classico's dial, with suggestions that brands could cover up date wheels if the movement necessitates it.
The Classico is preferred for its dressier style, elegant 'modern crab style' lugs, and more wearable 40mm case size. The deep blue dial with subtle wave patterns is highlighted for embodying Ulysse Nardin's maritime DNA.
While the Classico's dial is beautiful, some prefer the prior edition with applied numerals over the current printed ones. The Annual Calendar's dial is considered too busy, distracting from its aesthetic.
The Classico's lugs and case are highly regarded, but the date display is seen as a minor distraction. For the Marine, concerns are raised about the date cutting into the subdial track and excessive text on the dial.
A contributor notes that the date's position suggests the case might have been designed 2mm smaller, emphasizing the importance of the caliber-to-case ratio for overall aesthetics.
A contributor expresses a preference for the Classico despite the date, but finds the Marine Annual Calendar's strap attachment bothersome, suggesting the case type needs an update.

The Discussion

piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1)

Feb 13, 2017

You said it all ;-)

According to the position of the date, i assume the case might have been design 2 mm smaller. I am the guy who always take much care about the ratio caliber/case. However, a really nice elegant watch. Do you have any photos of both the movements?

amanico

Feb 13, 2017

You added it all. :)

I don't have any picture of the movements, but I will take care of that asap. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, my friend. Nicolas

Alkiro1

Feb 13, 2017

I have a true preference for the Classico. I particularly love the lugs which offer, in my opinion, a very nice "modern crab style".

In addition, the Classico is much more dressy than the Marine (sportier style - definitely an UN choice I suppose) with a case size easiest to wear at least for me. The difference of indexes\' thickness has a great importance in my choice too. To conclude, I particularly love the drawings (waves) and blue colour of the dial. It makes me think to a sunbeam which passes through the sea and creates wonderful hues when you are under the water. Modern crab lugs and a deep blue dial with subtle waves.

amanico

Feb 13, 2017

Yes, the lugs of the Classico are very appealing. A dressier offer, compared to the Marine. [nt]

Spangles - Dr. Tabby

Feb 13, 2017

These are both beautiful, I like the blue grand feu.

Could someone explain the link between Ulysse Nardin and Russia, please?

amanico

Feb 13, 2017

Russia? Always a good market for the brand. This is my guess. [nt]