Urban Jürgensen Reference 8 (1999) Vintage Watch

Rosneathian · 2021-05-14T02:08:59Z

Explore the Urban Jürgensen Reference 8 from 1999 in yellow gold. Discover its unique dial craftsmanship, historical context, and collector insights.

Rosneathian

WPS member · Independents forum

26 replies5509 views4 photos

Rosneathian's acquisition of a 1999 Urban Jürgensen Reference 8 in yellow gold offers a compelling entry point into the brand's rich heritage and exquisite craftsmanship. This article delves into the nuances of this specific reference, exploring its design elements, historical context, and the broader appeal of Urban Jürgensen's independent watchmaking philosophy. Rosneathian's personal journey of discovery highlights why this particular model resonates deeply with collectors.

I first saw a UJ in the flesh when I went to pick up my Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT last year. It was the delicious Reference Big 8, which member IM6 recently posted. I was smitten.

So began a few months of exploration - via UJ - into the overlapping influences and legacies of totemic watchmakers from the 18th and 19th centuries. The journey continued to the present day, the revival of the company and its eventual return to full Danish ownership. There is so much to admire, all of which culminates in work of exquisite quality.

Here are photos of the watch that I decided would be my first UJ: the 1999, 37mm Reference 8 in 18K yellow gold. It's currently in transit and the images you see are courtesy of @philostan from IG. So that there can be no misunderstanding, I have watermarked the photos accordingly.

I don't want to recant what members of this forum might already know about this wonderful watchmaking enterprise, but am happy to share my personal impressions based on any views you might wish to share. Of course more will follow once the watch itself arrives in a few weeks' time.

Key Points from the Discussion

The dials of older Urban Jürgensen watches, often made of solid silver, develop a warm patina over time, a characteristic that is more complex to achieve with modern coated materials. The hands, meticulously polished with diamond-encrusted paper, are thermally blued to a unique shade, with an asymmetric observatory eye design that subtly guides the viewer's gaze.
The absence of 'Copenhagen' on some Urban Jürgensen dials, particularly on the Reference 8, might be a strategic branding decision to connect with the brand's heritage, similar to other watchmakers referencing past associations for product differentiation.
The author's decision to pursue the 'simpler' Reference 8 over the magnificent Reference 2 perpetual calendar was influenced by both personal preference for its aesthetic and budgetary considerations, highlighting the scarcity and desirability of these earlier references.
There's a perceived aesthetic similarity between Urban Jürgensen and Kari Voutilainen watches, particularly in their hands and guilloché dials, prompting a question about potential shared influences or design philosophies despite distinct differences in lugs, case shapes, and movement decorations.
The tactile experience of observing and holding exquisite watches, especially those in gold and under 40mm, is paramount to appreciating the intricate details like the hand-worked barleycorn guilloché and the balanced proportion of complications.
A collector recently acquired a mid-90s Urban Jürgensen Reference 2 perpetual calendar, built on a Frédéric Piguet 71 movement with a finely finished perpetual module developed by Derek Pratt, praising its exceptional dial, hands, and case.

The Discussion

mdg

May 14, 2021

...and I'm not an expert on guilloche, but they seem to rival Breguet in that department.

Rosneathian

May 14, 2021

If I understand correctly, preferred materials these days include white gold or similar composites, which are then coated in a film of silver. Working with solid silver is more complex, and subject to mishap, as it's a softer metal. Silver also becomes patinated over time, which brings warmth to the dials of older watches. The hands are polished with fine-grained diamond encrusted paper, then thermally blued to a shade that UJ calls its own. The observatory eye is asymmetric and helps to taper t

Watchcph

May 14, 2021

I recently acquired a UJ Ref. 2 perpetual calender from start/mid 90's. It's build upon a Frederic Piguet 71. Derek Pratt developed the perpetual module which is very finely finished. It's dial, hands and case are sesond to none. So beautiful! Cheers!

dnlmpg

May 14, 2021

I have always wondered (may be a personal thing), what are the relationships/influences of UJ vs KV? Call me shallow but I've always thought from an aesthetics point of view (the hands and guilloche dials at least) they're very similar; the lugs, case shape and movement decorations are very different, I know, but as a watch wearer the first point of focus is usually the dial. Have always wondered if it's just coincidence or if there are actually more stories behind that.

Watchonthewrist

May 14, 2021

I really like the overall look of the watch , those hands and lugs are so gorgeous 👌🏻😘 Looking forward to see your pics soon

Rosneathian

May 14, 2021

Close-up photographs and macros have their role, but there is nothing like observing and holding pieces as exquisite as these in the palm of the hand or on the wrist. It's one reason why I prefer my nicer watches - especially those in golds - to be sub-40mm. That gorgeous sea of barleycorn guilloché handworked with a century-old machine, the proportion and distribution of the complications... stunning.

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Urban Jürgensen Reference 8 (1999) Vintage Watch

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