foversta's hands-on review of the Urwerk UR-220 "The Falcon Project" offers a deep dive into the evolution of Urwerk's distinctive wandering hours and retrograde minute displays. This article is particularly valuable for understanding how Urwerk refines its complex mechanisms and user experience, making a 2020 release relevant for collectors interested in the brand's design philosophy and technical advancements.
The Urwerk watch I prefer is the UR-202 which stands out for
its reinterpretation of the principle of wandering hours thanks to its
telescopic minute hands. The time runs continuously, with the central
carousel making a constant and permanent revolution. I also really like
the UR-210 even though it has a different concept: the large retrograde
hand. Basically both watches share the same central carrousel that
carries three satellites, each with a rotating cube. The cubes have a
double move. They move around the carrousel but also rotate on
themselves so that the correct face of the cube positioned at the
beginning of the minute scale corresponds to the current
time.
These
movements are peaceful and slow, and can only be perceived with the
naked eye. To fully understand this double animation, you just have to
pull the crown and accelerate the flow of time. As if by magic, the
carousel and the cubes then begin a superb ballet.
On the other hand, the UR-210 no longer uses the
telescopic hands of the UR-202 which were an integral part of the
satellites supporting the cubes. They are replaced by a single, majestic
hand that will accompany the cube all along the minute scale. At the
60th minute, the hand separates from the cube, performs an instant
retrograde movement and welcomes the next cube at the beginning of the
graduation. The behavior of this hand explains why I really like the
UR-210. In a way, it reminds me of the famous Opus V by Harry Winston
which is for me the most beautiful Opus.
Urwerk presented the UR-220 at the end of
summer 2020. A quick look at the watch might suggest that it is a
simple update of the UR-210. This is not totally inaccurate since both
watches have exactly the same rotating cube and large retrograde hand
display system. On the other hand, it's everything around it that
changes. In fact the UR-220 is a more important watch than it seems
because it allows Urwerk to explore two main
concepts.
The
power reserve display uses two
indicators:
The
wearer comfort indicator to start with. This is obviously a fundamental
evolution. It manifests itself through 3
components:
- the size of the case:
the latter is slightly smaller (its dimensions are 43,8mm x 52,9mm
while those of the UR-210 case are 43,8mm x 53,6mm) but above all it is
much thinner (14,8mm vs 17,8mm). Given the watch's size, every
millimetre more or less is immediately perceptible. The UR-220 thus
appears more slender, more fluid. But beware: it remains an imposing
watch,
- the main material of the case is carbon (the
base of the case remains in titanium) which makes it lighter while
having an aesthetic interest,
- and a brand new rubber
strap specifically developed by Urwerk. This strap is textured and
molded under Vulcanization and finished by hand. Its suppleness, the
feeling it gives on contact with the skin, and its aesthetic integration
make it very pleasant. It is a real
plus.
You will notice the
display of the movement's operating time on the back of the
watch:
The
other concept that is mobilized through the UR-220 is dear to Felix
Baumgartner: it is the interactivity between the machine and the man,
between the watch and its owner. First of all, the basic movement is
hand-wound (which also explains the reduction in the thickness of the
case): Urwerk has kept the Zenith Elite movement that powers the UR-210
and has removed the automatic winding mechanism. The power reserve of
the movement is 48 hours in the context of the UR-220, which is less
than the traditional performance of the caliber given the energy
required to operate the display module. Changing the type of winding has
several consequences. Displays are modified on each side. On the face
side, the power reserve display and the winding efficiency display are
replaced by a double power reserve display. On the back of the watch,
the famous winding efficiency selector that influences the behavior of
the turbines connected to the winding mass is replaced by a digital
gauge. It indicates the operating time of the mechanism expressed in
months thanks to two adjacent rollers. The watch should be serviced
after the 39th month of operation. Once the watch has been serviced, the
gauge is reset to zero. We thus find the famous Oil Change indicator of
the UR-110 in a more elaborate form.
The UR-220 is,
in my opinion, a great achievement from Urwerk. It meets all the
criteria of quality and rigor in the execution specific to the brand. It
is not revolutionary compared to the UR-210 but its evolutions are
relevant and make it more pleasant to wear on a daily basis. The choice
between the UR-210 and the UR-220 is mainly at this level. As for the
additional complications, it is a matter of appreciation. The display of
the operating time is especially interesting due to its double roller
interpretation and the possibility of checking the efficiency of the
winding system made sense on the UR-210. I would therefore find it
difficult to say that one watch is superior to the other. On the other
hand, the reduced thickness of the case and the comfort of the new
rubber strap are undeniable advantages.
The
UR-220 "The Falcon Project" (which has recently been joined by an All
Black version) is available at a price of 162,000 euros including
VAT.
Pros:
- the magical behaviour of the
main hand
- a refined case
- the strap is very
comfortable and perfectly integrated from an aesthetic point of
view
Cons:
- the performance of the basic
movement begins to date.
About the Urwerk Ref. UR-110
The UR-110, known as the "Torpedo," represents a significant evolution in Urwerk's satellite time display architecture. It departs from the earlier UR-200 series by introducing a new configuration where the three rotating hour satellites are mounted on planetary gears, which in turn orbit a central carousel. This design allows the hour indicators to remain parallel to each other as they traverse the minute track on the right side of the case, offering a distinct visual and mechanical interpretation of time. The model is characterized by its asymmetrical case and the prominent minute track.
The watch features a mechanical self-winding movement, the UR-9.01, which provides a substantial power reserve. The case is typically constructed from a combination of materials, often titanium for the main body with a contrasting bezel material. The crystal is sapphire, providing durability and clarity for viewing the complex display. The case dimensions are notable for their presence on the wrist, reflecting the brand's design philosophy.
For collectors, the UR-110 is a key reference that showcases Urwerk's commitment to unconventional timekeeping and advanced mechanical engineering. It appeals to those interested in horological innovation and a departure from traditional watchmaking aesthetics. The model has been produced in various material combinations and finishes, each offering a unique character within the UR-110 series, solidifying its place as a distinctive piece in contemporary independent watchmaking.
Specifications
- Caliber
- UR-9.01
- Case
- Titanium and steel
- Diameter
- 47mm x 51mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Horological Meandering Ref. UR-210
The Urwerk UR-210 is a notable timepiece from the independent brand, recognized for its distinctive satellite hour display with retrograde minute hand. This model continues Urwerk's tradition of unconventional time-telling mechanisms, combining complex horological engineering with a futuristic aesthetic. It represents a significant evolution in the brand's design language and technical capabilities, pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking.
The UR-210 features a large, robust case, typically crafted from materials like titanium and steel, housing a self-winding movement. Its signature complication is the retrograde minute hand, which sweeps across a 120-degree arc before snapping back to the beginning, paired with rotating hour satellites. The watch also incorporates a winding efficiency indicator and a power reserve display, adding to its functional complexity.
For collectors, the UR-210 stands out as a bold statement piece, embodying Urwerk's commitment to avant-garde design and innovative mechanics. Its limited production and unique visual identity contribute to its desirability among enthusiasts of independent horology, offering a distinct alternative to conventional high-end watches.
Specifications
- Caliber
- UR-7.10
- Case
- Titanium and steel
- Diameter
- 53.6mm x 46mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
