VC Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chrono Platinum

amanico · 2024-10-22T15:34:56Z

Explore Vacheron Constantin's Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in platinum. amanico compares it with Malte references 47112 and 47212, detailing case, dial, and movement differences. Essential reading for collectors.

amanico

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amanico's detailed comparison of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in platinum with its predecessors offers invaluable insights for collectors. His meticulous examination of case dimensions, dial aesthetics, and movement nuances provides a critical framework for understanding the evolution of Vacheron Constantin's perpetual calendar chronographs. This article serves as a vital resource for those evaluating these highly complex and sought-after timepieces.

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Let's come back to a watch I furtively saw at Watches and Wonders, last year, as this year I saw nothing which piqued my interest, from Vacheron Constantin: The Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in platinum.

A few days before seeing it in real life, I had a look at some official pictures, and I was intrigued. I first have to say that I always liked the Vacheron offer in terms of PC Chronographs, especially the 47112 and the 47212, both with the " Malte " case, and these typical lugs... Which may explain my feelings on this new one.

1/ THE CASE:

The case of the Traditionnelle is the bigger of these three, with a 43 mm diameter, versus 39 mm for the 47112 and 42 mm for the 47212. The lugs are more " Traditional ", on the more recent one, straight, slim, and linear.Here, I prefer the Malte ones.

The Patrimony:

The height is 12, 94 mm, which is " thinner " than the 47112 and the 47212 with 14 mm. So the proportions are more harmonious on the Traditionnelle, that's indisputable, while the 47112 is a " burger " in comparison, even if it is a lovely one. Its hunter case back doesn't help here.

The 47112:

The 47212:

The only one to have round pushers is the 47212, the two others having rectangular pushers which are well proportioned, while the round pushers of the 47212 seem to be a bit too small.

The crown? The 47212 has the best one in terms of proportions, while the 47112 looks a tad too big and the Traditionnelle is a tad too small.

2/ THE DIAL:

Here, the rule is as simple as it is obvious: The dial has to be in harmony with the case, and most of all, with the movement size. And this is the major flaw of the Traditionnelle, as we'll elaborate right now.

When you compare the dials of the 47112, 47212 and of this Traditionnelle, the most harmonious clearly is the dial of the 47112. Look at the minute chronograph and small seconds subdials. On the Traditionnelle, they are very centered ( too much, in my taste ) and very small, compared to the 47212 and the difference is even more noticeable with the 47112. This perception is enhanced by the fact that, on the Traditionnelle, the applied indices at 3 and 9 o'clock are smaller than the others, at the exception of those at 5 and 7 o' clock, but these last two are not problematic, from a design point of view, at least according to my own taste.

For the rest, it is very subjective. The 47112 has superb triangular shaped applied indices, But I am not too fond of the applied Roman XII.

Here is a piece unique, with a sumptuous black dial:

The 47212 has something which drives me mad, its awesome platinum dial. But I dislike the PT 950 mentioned between 4 and 5 o' clock. One detail I love a lot, the shape of its hands.

The Traditionnelle takes the benefit of its gorgeous salmon dial, which, chromatically speaking offers a superb combination with the platinum case. But I am less a fan of its more conventional Dauphine hands. And the too centered small seconds and minute chronograph subdials are a no go for me.

These three have two common points: One I love a lot, the sublimissime platinum moon phase, and the other one I totally dislike, the leap year window, just above the " 30 " of the minute chronograph subdial... They should have found a better way to display the leap year!

3/ THE MOVEMENT:

Here I don't see big differences between the Cal 1141QP of the 47112 and 47212 and the Cal 1142QP of the Traditionnelle. The size is the same ( 27 mm ) and the height, too ( 7, 37 mm ). We find the Lemania base with a lot of pleasure, again, even if one thing is sure, this is the culprit of the too centered subdials mentioned above. The Patek contender, the 5970, with the same movement, does better here.

The Cal 1141QP:

The Cal 1142QP:

It seems that the power reserve is a tad longer, with the Cal 1142QP: 48 hours versus a tad more than 40 hours for the Cal 1141QP... To be checked, though.

It has the good taste to be manual winding, but I would have preferred a longer power reserve...

4/ CONCLUSION:

You got my idea. When I saw the new " Traditionnelle '' the two other former perpetual calendar chronographs immediately came to my mind. It is impossible not to compare all of them, at least for me.

Per se, the Traditionnelle is a very nice watch, a Classic associating two noble complications, with a sublime salmon dial. But there are the two former ones.

Watch by Vacheron Constantin, Traditionnelle, Lemania, Harmony, Historiques, Chronograph Platinum , Malte Chronograph, 472...

So, my favorite would be the 47212 over the 47112 by a very slight margin, due to the slimmer and more elegant / romantic Malte lugs, and because of its platinum grained dial. But I am totally crazy about the hunter case back of the 47112, and its smaller case offers more consistency to the 2 small seconds and minute chronograph subdials.

Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,

Best.

Nicolas

About the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine Ref. 47112

The Vacheron Constantin reference 47112 is a chronograph model distinguished by its perpetual calendar and moon phase complications. This reference combines traditional watchmaking with a highly functional display, positioning it as a significant offering within Vacheron Constantin's complicated watch lineup. It represents a blend of technical prowess and classical design, appealing to collectors seeking a sophisticated grand complication.

This specific reference features a 40 mm case, typically crafted from 18k rose gold, housing the automatic caliber 2450. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, which is often presented in a silver finish, offering clear legibility of its multiple indications. The case is water resistant to 30 meters.

The 47112 appeals to collectors interested in high-complication timepieces from a historic manufacture. Its combination of a chronograph with a perpetual calendar and moon phase places it in a category of highly sought-after watches. While the existing database indicates a rose gold case, variations in case material and dial finish may exist across the production period, offering different aesthetic choices for collectors.

Specifications

Caliber: 2450

Case: 18k Rose Gold

Diameter: 40 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The previous platinum versions of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with light grey or anthracite dials are preferred by some collectors, despite the 43mm case size being considered too large for certain wrists.
Among the Malte references, the 47112 is favored for its triangular markers, Roman XII, and hunter case back, with the yellow gold version particularly noted for its striking yellow gold moon phase.
The 47112 is often preferred over later models due to its superior display proportions, where the date is more legible with larger script and a red arrow hand, unlike current models where the date is virtually non-visible.
A Vacheron Constantin watchmaker at the boutique reportedly confirmed that after the 47112, the moon disc material was changed from platinum to white gold, indicating a potential cost-saving measure.
Some collectors find that the 47212 and Traditionnelle models suffer from disproportionately small dial displays relative to their case size, making the movement appear undersized for the dial.
The 47112's chronograph is difficult to read between 27 and 33 minutes, which is considered a significant functional flaw by some.

The Discussion

mdg

Oct 22, 2024

I cannot get excited about any of these...

...they seem 'cold' to me for want of a better word. And a small movement is a no-go...

amanico

Oct 22, 2024

True that given the movement, the smaller case the better.

Eric67

Oct 22, 2024

Thank you for the very instructive post

These watches have many positive features. But they have flaws also. 47212 and Traditionnelle are too big for the movement. And the problem is that it is obvious dial side. On the 47112 it is impossible to read the chrono between 27 and 33, and that seems nonsense to me. Imho

amanico

Oct 22, 2024

Thanks for your feedback, Eric.

quattro

Oct 22, 2024

Thank you for this very interesting post.

Among the Malte, my favorite is, without hesitation, the 47112: I love the triangular markers and also the Roman XII. And the hunter case back, of course. For me, the 47212 looses some of the attractive character of the 47112 design. And my favorite version of the 47112 would be the yellow gold one, with its amazing yellow gold moon phase. This popping gold moon phase is also a detail I love in the rose gold variant of the 47292. But this model is way too big, at least for my wrist (I've tried i

amanico

Oct 22, 2024

Wow, the 49005!!!Sublime!