Watch Complications: Chronograph, Tourbillon, Perpetual Calendar

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MTR, known to the community as Thomas, shares his excitement for the rare February 28th to March 1st perpetual calendar changeover. He showcases two exceptional timepieces, the H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Purity and the IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Rattrapante, highlighting the unique ways each watch executes this horological event. His post invites fellow collectors to appreciate the intricate mechanics and aesthetic brilliance of these complicated watches.

it will be very exciting for us owners of a perpetual calendar.

I have put on my Moser Perpetual Purity especially for this event today.

With this very special watch, changing the big date will be particularly spectacular.
Especially because the date changes after midnight in a very short time.

The small hand for the month indication will then move a small, almost imperceptible step further and then point to 3:00 o'clock.

In contrast, I like to save my IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Rattrapante for the turn of the year. Here I can marvel at the amazing change in the year display.

All the best
Thomas

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25

The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.

The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.

Specifications

Caliber: DB2105

Case: 18k White Gold

Diameter: 44.5 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Purity features a highly reduced dial, with the month indicated by a small central hand and the year indicator relocated to the case back, emphasizing its apparent simplicity.
MTR notes the Moser's date and month indicators switch almost instantaneously, within 1-2 seconds after midnight, raising the question of whether any other perpetual calendar can achieve a faster transition.
MTR shares a deep personal connection to his IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Rattrapante, describing it as the 'perfect' successor to a previous model he regretted selling, and a 'sculpture on the wrist' that took 15 years to reacquire.
MTR also owns a Henry Double Hairspring and his wife a Bucherer Blue, showcasing a broader appreciation for independent watchmaking and unique designs.
The Moser's dial, while not Vantablack, features an extremely dark blue that is challenging to photograph and only truly recognizable in direct sunlight, contributing to its minimalist aesthetic.
Another collector, Mike H, also wore a perpetual calendar for the date change, indicating a shared appreciation for this specific horological event among the community.

The Discussion

Cpt Scarlet

Feb 28, 2022

and this one looks very cool. Enjoy !

vallura

Feb 28, 2022

A major complication presented very nicely 👌😊

takman

Feb 28, 2022

Enjoy the date change, Moser would be at the top of my list if I were looking for a PC. Love the creativity and simplicity of the display.

Thomas_3

Feb 28, 2022

that Moser sure has a clean look to it, a completely uncluttered dial. That vanta black dial is super nice.

MTR

Feb 28, 2022

I love the pure and very reduced dial, too. It’s not vanta, but an extremely dark blue which is very hard to capture and just recognizable in sunlight. Best Thomas

MTR

Feb 28, 2022

It’s such an amazing watch. Also the backside. Thanks for looking, dear Tony. All the best Thomas

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Watch Complications: Chronograph, Tourbillon, Perpetual Calendar

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

Specifications

Key Points from the Discussion

Continue the conversation

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