Shaped Watch Calibers: Movement Overview

quattro · 2024-10-18T15:35:22Z

Explore the artistry of shaped calibers in luxury watches like Parmigiani Fleurier, Chopard, JLC Reverso, and Patek Philippe. Discover the harmony between case and movement.

quattro

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

24 replies5516 views22 photos

In the world of haute horlogerie, the aesthetic harmony between a watch's case and its movement is a hallmark of exceptional design. quattro's insightful post highlights this often-overlooked detail by showcasing several luxury timepieces where the caliber is meticulously shaped to complement the case, rather than simply fitting a round movement into a non-round enclosure. This curated selection underscores the dedication to craftsmanship that defines true watchmaking artistry.

24 collectors discussing this on the WatchProSite forumJoin the Conversation →

Because shaped watches look better with shaped calibers, here are a few pretty nice ones.

Enjoy!

(Photos credit: multiple websites)

Parmigiani Fleurier Ionica with caliber PF 110

Chopard LUC Heritage Grand Cru with caliber 1.97

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Sun Moon with caliber 823

Patek Philippe 5100J with caliber 28-20/220

Patek Philippe 5124J-001 with caliber 25-21 REC PS

Patek Philippe 5200G-010 with caliber 28-20 REC 8J PS IRM C J

Patek Philippe 5101P-010 with caliber TO-28-20 REC 10J PS IRM

Laurent Ferrier Bridge with caliber LF 107.01

Vacheron Constantin Malte Tonneau Tourbillon 30066/000r-8816 with caliber VC 1790

Key Points from the Discussion

The anglage on the Parmigiani Fleurier Ionica and Vacheron Constantin Malte Tonneau Tourbillon is particularly impressive, demonstrating superior finishing. The Parmigiani Ionica is a personal favorite due to its double-coined bezel and grain d'orge guilloché dial.
The Chopard LUC Heritage Grand Cru is also highly regarded for its aesthetic appeal, making the choice between these exceptional shaped watches a difficult one.
The distinctive 'open mouth' aesthetic of some shaped calibers, while strong, contributes to the unique and attractive character of these particular models.
The discussion on shaped calibers extends to other regions, with a dedicated post exploring German rectangular watches, indicating a broader interest in this specialized horological design.
Another example of a shaped caliber, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Tourbillon Duoface, further illustrates the beauty and complexity achievable in non-round movements.

The Discussion

amanico

Oct 18, 2024

Patek 10 Days movement for me, here.

quattro

Oct 18, 2024

Yes, wonderful watch and caliber.

But the anglage of both the Parmigiani and the Vacheron is amazing, imo. And I also like the Grand Cru a lot. Between these 4 watches, I would personally have a hard time choosing. And would probably go for Parmigiani's Ionica, because of the double-coined bezel and guilloché dial with grain d'orge pattern.

amanico

Oct 18, 2024

If only the Vacheron had the tourbillon on the back side!

quattro

Oct 18, 2024

Yes, I have mixed feelings too.

It's like a big opened mouth. But it's part of the "strong" aesthetic and I really find this particular model to be one of the most attractive in its own kind.

amanico

Oct 18, 2024

The back side is really my taste, I must say.

quattro

Oct 18, 2024

The architecture is wonderful. And the sharp angles...