I have followed the Czapek brand since the launch of the Quai des Bergues. The work accomplished more recently by Xavier de Roquemaurel and his colleagues has helped to solidify and structure the company around 3 axes: the supply chain, the distribution and the product offer.

The distribution network has grown and even if the number of points of sale remains limited, the network is complete with a presence in North America, Europe and Asia thanks to the involvement of well-known retail partners... not to mention the opening of the Czapek boutique in Geneva.

Finally, the catalog has been expanded in number of references and more importantly, in styles. While the Quai des Bergues and Place Vendôme collections define a classic offering, the Faubourg de Cracovie and Antartique collections explore other, more casual, more versatile dimensions to offer watches that perhaps better correspond today to the aspirations of a constantly evolving clientele.

The Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie California Dreamin' is very interesting from this point of view. Indeed, I remember very well the first models of the Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie collection, marked by an approach that was still very cautious in a way. Certainly, these first dials were daring in their presentation because of their impressive guilloches and showed a dynamic rendering. But Czapek remained in a classical context, whereas the watch and its movement perhaps required something more "contemporary" and less elaborate. I sincerely think that the California Dreamin' version is the most successful of the lot. It de-dusted the style and I find that the dial here is totally consistent with the case and movement.

The subtly grained finish of the black dial is superb and discreet. It brings a touch of sophistication while remaining discreet. The presence of the tachymeter scale balances the organization of the dial and the sub-dials are harmoniously distributed. Given this scale, the two chronograph counters have been reduced, but I find the result more satisfying this way. The combination of white, Roman and Arabic numerals, typical of "California" dials (hence the name of the piece) is clearly visible. Even if some numbers are cut, they give a lot of character to the watch. I also appreciate the shape of the hands, very successful, the discreet integration of the date (which almost disappears in the dial) as well as the red chronograph second hand.

The steel case has a diameter of 41.5mm. Its size here is ideal considering the organization of the dial. The strength of this case is the perfect aesthetic integration of the pushers. Nothing protrudes, they seem to define a kind of crown protector. The crown is nicely designed and gives character to the case. In spite of their integration, the pushers are easy to handle and very pleasant to use.

The transparent case back makes it possible to appreciate the SXH3 movement, coming from Vaucher through an exclusive execution for Czapek. The performance of this new-generation movement is excellent: it offers a power reserve of 65 hours, a column wheel, a vertical clutch and a linear hammer. Particular care has therefore been taken in the engagement process. But the excellent news is the frequency of this movement: 5hz. It can thus display 1/10 seconds (I can reassure you that the graduation is consistent with this frequency) and even if there are nowadays several high-frequency chronograph calibers, they are not legion.

The presentation of the movement is in my opinion successful. The gold-plated winding mass is clearly distinguishable from the rest of the caliber, finished with a very modern decoration and anthracite bridges. The opening of the plate offers an airy style. Moving elements such as the column wheel or the balance wheel are clearly visible. The overall look is meticulous and the contemporary approach can be felt in the details such as the balance wheel bridge. Undeniably, it is a very beautiful movement whose own diameter of 30mm means that it does not appear too lost in the case.

The Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie California Dreamin' is a very pleasant watch to wear and use. Its versatility is confirmed by its correct water-resistance of 50m and the provision of a black rubber strap in addition to the crocodile strap. The black dial and the peripheral scale reduce the perceived size and a feeling of balance emerges from the whole. Thanks to the contrast between white and black and the red touch, the chronograph offers a very "racing" atmosphere which suits it well and which seems appropriate to the performance of the movement.

The Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie California Dreamin' is sold at a price of CHF 28,000 before tax, which may seem high for a steel chronograph but it comes from an independent brand that produces small series and in this case the number of copies is only 18. If I had been presented with this piece a few years ago, I would never have guessed that it was a Czapek watch. But in the end, it's what it's all about: thanks to this chronograph, the brand opens up new horizons and avoids getting stuck in a style that could have been problematic later on. This chronograph and the Antarctic collection symbolize a new stage in the development of Czapek. And it's always exciting to see a young brand evolve and explore new avenues. It shows that it has ideas and ambition.

Pros:

+ the performance of the movement

+ the presentation of the dial

+ the integration of pushers

+ the two straps

Cons:

- a high price for a steel chronograph (but in small series)

Fr.Xavier