It seems that Louis Erard has found the right formula. Thanks to recent collaborations with watch designers or makers, the brand is gaining significant visibility and strengthening its watchmaking legitimacy. Indeed, the announcement a few days ago of the release of the Regulator, designed with Vianney Halter, was perceived as an important event, relayed through the main information channels of the watchmaking community. Such media coverage and the success of the watch (the 178 pieces of this limited series were sold in just a few hours) are ultimately profitable for both parties: for Louis Erard of course, but also for the watchmaker who finds through this collaboration a way to communicate on a new product and to address a much wider audience.

The context is similar, the result is different. The Louis Erard Regulator x Alain Silberstein on the left and the Louis Erard Regulator x Vianney Halter on the right:

In fact, the Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Regulator appears more subtle than the one created with Alain Silberstein. Simply because Alain Silberstein's style is very well known and recognizable. Vianney Halter's style is less well known or is not as easy to perceive. And yet, when you look at the dial, there is no doubt: the French watchmaker's touch can be felt in every detail.

This time, the basic model is not the Regulator with manual winding but the Excellence Regulator Automatic with a 42mm steel case and powered by the Sellita SW266-1 caliber. The watch is therefore larger (42mm vs. 40mm) and much thicker (12.15mm vs. 8mm) than the Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein. In a way, this is good news: the two watches complement each other more than they oppose each other, each with its own atmosphere.

It is the dial that mainly serves as a frame of expression for Vianney Halter's talent. The result is superb and convincing. The dial combines different types of finishes that highlight contrasts, light reflections and volumes. The upper silver plate has a circular satin finish while the lower plate uses a matte gray finish. The silver subdials have a micro-beaded finish and black decals. Finally, the appliques that symbolize collaboration are distinguished by their horizontal satin finish.

The quality of execution is remarkable. The cut of the top piece is precise and perfectly realized. Just look at the inward angles. According to the inclination of the wrist, the dial takes beautiful silvery reflections and the contrast between the plates becomes more or less marked. The relief effects are also interesting and they contribute to the perceived quality.

The blued steel hands take the characteristic shape of Vianney Halter's style. The advantage of the Regulator is that it separates these hands from the displays. That's why I find the spirit, certainly in a more modest context, of a watch like the Antiqua: the displays are distributed on the dial and the hands and numbers are similar.

The other element faithful to Vianney Halter's aesthetics is the crenellated crown that nicely decorates the whole. For the rest, the Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Regulator is identical to the Excellence Regulator, especially in the presentation of the movement with the openworked winding mass visible through the transparent back. Moreover on this point I would have preferred a solid caseback with an engraving in order to bring an additional specificity. Or a different decoration. The movement is certainly decorated with care but it is not spectacular either. The good point is that there is no inscription on the glass. Its performance is no surprise, namely a power reserve of 38 hours (a little short by today's standards) for a 4hz frequency.

The aesthetic potential of Louis Erard's Regulator is real. This latest limited series is totally different from the previous one. This is obviously due to the talents of the watchmaking designers and makers, but also to the context offered by the Regulator. It allows the expression of different sensibilities and the organization of the dial highlights the stylistic effects. Personally, I have a preference for the Regulator created with Alain Silberstein because it is smaller, thinner and handwind. But the Louis Erard & Vianney Halter Regulator is also a successful piece. The influence of the watchmaker can be felt while remaining in a good balance. It was not in Vianney Halter's interest either that the watch became his exclusive project: the prices he charges are well above the selling price of CHF 3,500 for this Regulator and it was necessary to maintain a certain consistency.

Nevertheless, this Regulator offers a great opportunity to enjoy a watch with the signature and commitment of a talented independent watchmaker at a reasonable price. You only have to wear it and examine the beauty of the dial, its volumes, its reflections to be convinced. And since the accompanying bracelet in "Oceania" blue nubuck calf leather suits it perfectly, it was difficult for many amateurs to resist the possibility of acquiring it. That's why the 178 pieces of the limited edition were sold out very quickly. Decidedly, Louis Erard really holds an excellent concept with this collaborative approach.

Pros:

+ the quality of the dial's execution

+ the volume effects, reflections, contrasts that it offers

+ the very nice blue nubuck calf leather strap

+ a reasonable price to approach Vianney Halter's stylistic universe

 Cons:

 - the thickness of the case

- a solid caseback would have been in my opinion a better solution

Fr.Xavier