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Jaquet Droz: 2019 novelties

foversta
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The 2019 novelties from Jaquet Droz were presented in the context of the Time to Move event organized by Swatch Group, which brought together its high-end brands. I found the new Jaquet Droz collection particularly convincing. Certainly, the pieces presented are not surprising because they are part of the usual stylistic trends of the brand. In fact, some of them are evolutions of existing models. But the execution is attractive and a qualitative work has been provided on the presentation of the movements and in the choice of colors. In addition, it is the first time Jaquet Droz has unveiled a Grande Seconde watch with a chronograph complication and this watch is of course the keystone of the new collection. Finally, the artistic and feminine pieces again highlight the Jaquet Droz expertise on this field. I propose you to browse these novelties which are mainly concentrated in the collections Grande Seconde and Ateliers d'Art, which are the main axes of development of Jaquet Droz.

Grande Seconde Dual Time

The Grande Seconde Dual Time is the evolution of a model presented in 2016. This very nice watch takes advantage of the traditional lay-out of the dial of the Grande Seconde to divide the displays into two clearly distinct areas. The upper sub-dial is dedicated to the local time, the large sub-dial below includes the big second hand and the hometime hour and date.

The changes are aesthetic: the world map nicely decorates the watch and reinforces its vocation as a traveler's instrument. The date is well integrated but not necessarily very readable because of its display by hand. I would have preferred the watch without but it makes sense on such a watch. The logo and brand name are moved and positioned outside the sub-dials.

True to the spirit of the brand, the watch is large (43mm) and harmoniously proportioned (with a thickness of 13mm). The integrated pusher in the crown contributes to the elegance that emerges from the piece. No change from the previous model, the movement is the caliber 2663H24  with a power reserve of 65 hours and a frequency of 4hz. I like its presentation, simple and effective as well as the decoration of the winding mass. The new version of the Grande Seconde Dual Time is therefore a success in making a nice evolution of an existing model.

Several versions are available in steel or red gold. The two steel models offer silver opaline or black onyx dials and the red gold pieces are distinguished by their black or ivory enamel dials.

Steel model and silver opaline dial:

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Model in rose gold and black enamel dial, my favorite version:

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The visual rendering of the movement remains very pleasant to observe without being spectacular:

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Model in rose gold and ivory enamel dial, the most classic:

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Grande Seconde Chronograph

The Grande Seconde Chronograph is the key novelty of the year. Jaquet Droz proposes for the first time this complication in the context of the Grande Seconde and takes advantage again of the specific lay-out of the dial. The excellent idea is to have used a monopusher caliber to avoid unsightly pushers on the case. In a way, it is very close to the Dual Time what was the objective: Jaquet Droz is working on its brand identity and now puts more focus on the Grande Seconde collection than on other collections whose influence decreases.

To add a touch of originality, most versions offer an off-centered dial except for the rose gold  and ivory enamel dial version. The display of chronograph data is readable but again I would have removed the date display. Here, it would have made more sense than on the Dual Time and would have made  the minutes scale larger. Note that the peripheral graduation doesn't include the xth of a second.

The movement that animates the watch is the caliber 26M5R with a frequency of 3hz and a power reserve of 40 hours which is a bit short. Its presentation is superb and I really appreciated the work done by Jaquet Droz. The hollowed winding mass offers a very wide view on the movement and the slightly curved rendering is original and beautifully done. The case has a diameter of 43mm (the standard Grande Seconde case I could say) and its thickness is close to 15mm. Its rendering is more imposing than that of the Dual Time and it is logic since the movement is thicker.

Several versions are available in steel with black, blue or silver dials and in rose gold with ivory enamel dial.

Steel model and blue dial. I really like this contemporary gray blue that brings something different compared to the classic style:

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Even the steel version benefits from a gold winding mass. Without being superlative, I really like the presentation of the movement and in particular the shape of the rotor:

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Model in rose gold and ivory enamel dial. This is the most classic and its dial is not off-centered:

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Steel model and gray dial. It also offers a more contemporary look but I found it a bit more sad than the blue dial:

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Steel model and silver dial. I would consider this option as more traditional. The silver dial works very well in this context and it is the one that offers the best legibility:

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Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic

Among the novelties of the year, Jaquet Droz offers a new version of the Grande Seconde  Skelet-One Ceramic. It harmoniously combines dark (gray and black) and blue details (screws, hands, stap). The transparency effect brought by the sub-dial of the big second hand is a success. This watch is undoubtedly the most modern of Jaquet Droz offer and it proves that the brand can dare less classic designs. The technical characteristics remain identical to the Skelet-One watches, namely for the black ceramic case a diameter of 41.5mm and a thickness of 12.5mm. The 2663SQ movement impresses with its aerial side and the work done bridges side. I like very much in this context also the shape of the winding mass and the way in which it encompasses the movement. Its frequency is 4hz and its power reserve is 68 hours. A very beautiful piece that makes us apprehend Jaquet Droz in a different way.

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Grande Seconde Quantième Satin Brushed Blue

The 2019 collection also features a new brushed blue dial for the Grande Seconde Quantième  in two different sizes: 39 and 43mm. I find here the spirit of the  "blue gray" color used with the Grande Seconde Chronograph.

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In the Jaquet Droz catalogue, if I have to choose between two sizes for a similar watch, my preference is always to the 43mm model because I find it more in line with the identity of the brand and with the will to find the feeling to wear a pocket watch on the wrist:

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Petite Heure Minute Smalta Clara Humming Bird


Finally, when it comes to the Ateliers d'Art, I wanted to highlight this beautiful Petite Heure Minute Smalta Clara Humming Bird. The plique-à-jour Grand Feu enamel dial is beautiful and offers surprising transparency effects. In fact, it makes me think of stained glass. The watch may appear as dark or bright. A real success that makes this watch my favorite  lady's watch novelty from Jaquet Droz this year.

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The watch uses the 6150 movement that offers despite its small size a power reserve of 38 hours for a frequency of 3hz:

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The colors of the dial change when the light passes through the dial:

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Jaquet Droz presented other pieces such as the Petite Heure Minute Nacre or the amazing Magic Lotus Automaton. Unfortunately, I have not been able to see it, but I hope to do so in the future. But even without this piece, the Jaquet Droz collection of 2019 novelties pleased me a lot thanks to the aesthetics of the models which were unveiled and the quality of their execution. The brand seems to find a certain ambition and it is a good sign for the future.

Fr.Xavier

Comments:
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Watchonthewrist June 10th, 2019-12:59
Great report . Thanks  I allways like the brand and there line of watches . Owned one a few years ago and till this day i miss it sometimes .
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foversta June 10th, 2019-13:14
Thanks. Which one did you own?  
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Watchonthewrist June 10th, 2019-23:18
The Chrono Monopusher .  I traded it for my Moser Endeavour but still miss it some times ... 
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amanico June 10th, 2019-13:15
Thanks for the report, Fx. I like the Dual Time.  
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VMM June 10th, 2019-13:43
I like the chronographs. Thanks for sharing. Vte
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Mike H June 10th, 2019-18:07
Many thanks FX for this comprehensive review Winning duo for me is the Grande Seconde Chronograph with blue dial for me, and the Petite Heure Minute Smalta Clara Hummingbird for my wife 😉. That ladies watch is simply superb 👌😍.
Tifosi99 June 11th, 2019-02:54
What an excellent report. Thank you. Droz flies too under the radar in the U.S.  
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Emil Wojcik June 11th, 2019-08:10
Thanks for the post! As is the case with all the JD models, they present as modern classics in my eye and the brand has become one of my favorites over the past couple years. At the moment I own only one but I'm sure that will change in the future as I already have my eye on a couple different models. I've have to narrow that down to one.
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ChristianDK
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Playing in the garden with the Chronometre Bleu

ChristianDK
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I was making a Sunday roast and while it was finishing, I had a few moments to play with the CB. The Chronometre Bleu has become my favorite summer watch. Easy to wear and playful. The dial is so much more attractive in bright light than on a gloomy day, where I prefer the CS.


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