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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402

White Gold · Blue Dial · 39mm

Ref: 5402

For SaleUSD 139,850

+ USD 0 shipping

jacek.kozubek
Member since Aug 2008 · 17 yrs
100 Posts
47 Sold
53 Active
United States flag United States
View all listings → Active Mar 12
Brand
Audemars Piguet
Condition
Excellent
Series
Royal Oak 5402BC
Box
N/A
Model
Royal Oak
Papers
Yes
Reference
5402
Year
1980
Case Size
39 mm
Case Material
White Gold
Dial Color
Blue
Location
United States flagUnited States
Listed
Mar 17, 2026
Updated
Apr 13, 2026
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Description

Case: The 39mm 18k white gold case is excellent, showing sharp beveling and only extremely light wear. The 18K white gold bezel is also in excellent condition, showing only extremely light wear. Dial: The blue/black petite tapisserie diamond dial is excellent, showing no visible wear. The original factory hands are matching. Bracelet: The 18-link Royal Oak bracelet is excellent, showing no perceivable stretch. The bracelet will fit up to a / 6.75" (17.2 cm) wrist. Accessories: Box and Extract from the Archive Papers

⌚ Watch Specifications

Reference data · AI-verified specifications

Movement

Type
Automatic
Caliber
2121
Power Reserve
40h

Case

Material
Stainless steel
Diameter
39 mm
Thickness
7mm
Water Resist.
50m
Crystal
Acrylic
Bezel
Fixed Octagonal

Dial & Strap

Dial
Blue
Strap
Steel bracelet
Production
1972-1980

📖 About This Reference

The Royal Oak reference 5402 is recognized as the original iteration of the model, introduced in 1972. This reference established the design language that would define the Royal Oak collection, characterized by its integrated bracelet and octagonal bezel secured by visible screws. It was initially presented as a luxury sport watch, distinguishing itself through its material and finishing in a period dominated by more traditional dress watch aesthetics. The 5402 was produced in various series, with the A-series being the earliest and most sought after by collectors. The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case, often referred to as the "Jumbo" size, which was considered substantial for its era. It houses the self-winding Caliber 2121, a thin movement derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre's Caliber 920, known for its full-rotor design. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The crystal protecting the dial is acrylic, and the watch offers a water resistance of 50 meters, suitable for general wear. For collectors, the reference 5402 holds significance as the foundational model of a major watch series. Its various production series (A, B, C, D) present nuances in dial text and case back engravings that are closely examined. The integrated steel bracelet is an integral part of its design, contributing to its distinct profile. The blue dial, often with a "tapisserie" pattern, is a hallmark of this early reference, though other dial variations exist.

Collector Discussions

I succumbed unfortunately..
Owner has had multiple Audemars Piguet watches, regretted selling some, and vowed to never buy another. Despite this, recently added another jumbo watch due to personal preference, but does not plan on buying more from the manufacturer.
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Royal Oak Jumbo: an (incomplete) overview
Discover the evolution of Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Jumbo models from 1972 to the modern 2022 release. Explore key variations like steel, yellow gold, platinum, and special editions, detailing significant changes in design and movements.
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A movement dedicated to only one watch, the 160. Replaced a few years after by the Cal 118. Only 1000 made, 500 in white gold, 500 in rose gold. Historical. Best, Nicolas
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It’s back!
In Manhattan, a vintage Audemars Piguet chronograph, worn and unserviced, was restored to perfection after a comprehensive four-month service, including a new bezel, bringing it back to its former glory.
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Tacking on a Tourbillon
Delve into the additions of tourbillons in iconic AP Royal Oak and VC Overseas watches, highlighting design choices and the subjective beauty of these embellishments. Compare the Royal Oak tourbillon and Overseas tourbillon, noting distinct characteristics and aesthetics.
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