Cartier Tank Normale - White gold -

The watch

A one in a million Tank Normale.

A near-on 1970s vintage first. One of not many of its kind to appear on the market. Potentially the first. There is nothing remotely 'normale' about this tenaciously marvelous vintage Tank.

1970s timepieces fashioned from the eternally cool, calm and collected white gold are incredibly hard to come by. They are, almost, non-existent. Yellow gold was the decidedly dominant precious metal used in the 70s, with the vast majority of timepieces that have survived the considerable passage of time from then until now exhibiting a warm, ochre golden glow. This utterly unique Tank Normale, emanate the crystal cool sharpness of white gold.

The reference number of this piece is 78092 and numerous examples with this reference can be found in yellow gold but as far as examples in white gold go. On the brushed caseback, a solo engraving can be seen, which is an indication of this piece's early production - later examples would most certainly display further markings including 'Cartier'. The solo engraving is the watch's reference number (78092) plus serial number (0009), a single digit serial number, which places this timepiece amongst the first ten examples of this model. Pieces with the reference number 78093 also exist, these were the ladies' version of the watch and have smaller dimensions - with some also sporting diamonds.

The timepiece presented here however, exudes its own extra glimmer of Cartier charm.

This piece was a custom order. A custom order made by a gentleman working in a Cartier boutique in the 1970s, who decided to order this classically crisp and refined timepiece for himself. As would therefore be expected, it is a timepiece that has been treated with the greatest of care - and love. The signed and bright white lacquered Paris dial, with printed black Roman numerals and traditional railway track minute markers, shows not a single sign of age. The watch's 30mm x 22mm case is exceptional and in unrestored condition. This piece radiates vintage Cartier at its spellbinding best.

Blued sword hands give a glint of colour to the otherwise stark monochrome composition of the piece. While the original Tank Normale sported Breguet hands, sword hands appeared on the Tank Normale from the 1940s onwards and were the style of hands also chosen for the new, limited-editions launched in 2023. However, those Privé editions of the Tank Normale were given the same style of beaded crown as found on the original, while this 1970s timepiece exhibits a faceted crown - with a much more contained sapphire cabochon. With not a hint of excess in sight, this piece has a look and feel that is as sharp and brilliant as the white gold light emanating from its polished brancards. Glazing light tempered only by the brushed horizontal lines of its composed case.  

This incredible piece of brilliant Cartier is an early-edition, vintage example of the original, revolution-inciting Tank. A vintage example fashioned from a precious metal almost unbeknown to the vintage era and, despite the passing of circa 50 years, still looking as stunningly pristine as it would have done that first day it left the Cartier boutique.

In brief, a unique piece of Cartier collector heaven.

The movement

Powering this terrifically prized piece of vintage Cartier is the Swiss made Cartier calibre 78-1 which contains 17 jewels, beats at a frequency of 21600 vph and gives the watch a power reserve of 42 hours. Calibre 78-1 is a round movement that displays Côtes de Genève decoration and exhibits a lever escapement, monometallic balance as well as flat hairspring.

How it wears

Universally recognised elegance in its most genteel and clearest of forms. This timepiece is simply as sophisticated as it gets on the wrist. A minimal design that expresses such a wealth of heritage and in this particular case - extreme exceptionality - all contained within such elegant, modest vintage dimensions. An immaculate Cartier creation that speaks volumes on the wrist, yet in such a refined and understated manner.

The set & condition

An exceptionally rare vintage Cartier timepiece in astoundingly exceptional and untouched condition. Two highly - and ever-increasingly - desired characteristics that so rarely and so infrequently unite. This timepiece comes with its original box and original 18k white gold folding buckle, a buckle which is just as rare as the incredible watch to which it belongs.