Origin
The 1990s was an era of great innovation in watchmaking, with numerous developments, significant initiatives, and watch brands originating from the end of the 20th century. Prior decades came with varying degrees of turmoil, but the nineties enjoyed a growing watch-collecting scene adjacent to the thriving popularity of the legacy brands, and the progressive nature of mechanical novelties came to fruition. A man who understood these prior decades better than anyone is Michel Parmigiani. Before founding Parmigiani Fleurier in 1996, Parmigiani was a noteworthy horological restoration specialist at a time when an air of uncertainty encompassed the mechanical watchmaking scene powered by quartz watches. Between his work for the Patek Philippe museum, Breguet, Vacheron, and the Sandoz Family Foundation, Parmigiani's restoration skills and understanding of traditional, historically influential techniques were crucial when it came to establishing his namesake watch brand. With the backing of the Sandoz Family Foundation, Parmigiani Fleurier premiered with the Toric Memory Time. With case nuances inspired by Greek columns, embellished fine finishing, and an overall aesthetic alert to the guiding principles of the golden ratio. It stood as the ultimate expression of Parmigiani Fleurier's future intentions, with complicated watchmaking meeting traditional techniques and sensibilities.
The watch
With texture, depth, refinement, and plenty of nuances, this Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Automatic PF000069 from 1999 acts as a beautiful example of Parmigiani Fleurier's traditional yet modern approach to watchmaking. Encased in 18k white gold, this golden ratio-inspired exterior is greatly defined by its double-stepped coin edge bezel, which draws upon Greek and Roman "Doric" columns. This unique 40mm exterior creates a remarkable appearance of great tradition and elegance on the wrist. The distinctive lavishness outlined by the case of this precious metal timepiece translates wonderfully to its dial, where the classic execution continues, and the introduction of modern flourishes truly comes into play.
With a rich anthracite "grain d'orge" guilloché adorned with a brushed silver ring for its black Roman numerals and date window, the dial of this Memory Time is full of lust and intrigue. Shifting from varying dark tones of grey to deep black, the complexity of the stepped bezel is wonderfully mirrored with the contemporary manner of the dominating dial element here. The aforementioned brushed silver ring is complete with accents of guilloché on the inner and outer edges, a simple white dotted seconds track around the periphery, and a significant complication that helped establish Parmigiani Fleurier's foothold.
Other remaining dial features that also became staples of Parmigiani Fleurier creations are the javelin-style handset, the blued seconds hand with moon counterweight, and the horizontal oval ring that houses the Parmigiani Fleurier brand signature, seen here at six o'clock.
The Movement
Powering this important timepiece is the Calibre 13301. With 25 jewels, 38 hours of autonomy, a date function, and being adjusted to five positions, this calibre was assembled, decorated, and cased by Parmigiani Fleurier. Said finishing is complete to a high standard, with light Côtes de Genève on the baseplate and a 22ct rose gold rotor with skeletonisation, elaborate guilloché and a 'PF' signature.
How it wears
Coming in 40mm diameter, this Parmigiani Fleurier Toric appearance on the wrist is remarkably striking and handsome. Aided greatly by the double-stepped coin edge bezel, this piece makes a statement, with both bezel, dial, and faceted hands shifting in the ever-changing light throughout the day. Thanks to its execution and complication, it's a class leader in elegance, and capable of moving from business meetings to cocktail parties with sheer class.
Condition
This Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Automatic is sold together with its original strap, white gold buckle, blank papers, and a Mr Watchley travel case. The watch is paired with a Mr Watchley Grained Light Grey strap.
For more information please visit www.mrwatchley.com - 0032 456 13 55 37
Belgium
