Vacheron Constantin

A Quick Look at the New Patrimony Contemporaine and Malte Small Models

 

Vacheron Constantin makes great watches, but its success has been based almost entirely on creating watches for men. With the exception of the asymmetrical 1972 there is no iconic ladies design that collectors would identify as coming from Vacheron Constantin. (And the 1972 was originally conceived for men!)

Whereas Cartier has the Tank Francaise and the Ballon Bleu, Patek Philippe has the Twenty-Four, and Breguet has the Reine de Naples, all distinct designs that are quite successful in the market for high-end ladies timepieces, Vacheron Constantin has typically chosen a path by which they “feminize” watches designed for men, making them (usually) smaller and (typically) set with diamonds.

Vacheron Constantin has continued with that development philosophy with the newly introduced Patrimony Contemporaine Small Model, reference 81530. The standard Patrimony Contemporaine, reference 81180, is 40 mm in diameter. This small model is 36 mm, and currently available in either rose gold or white gold.

As with the standard patrimony Contemporaine, the movement is the Vacheron Constantin developed and manufactured caliber 1400, which has earned the Geneva Hallmark. Unlike with the 40 mm watch, the case back has a sapphire crystal through which one can admire the fine finishing on the movement

There are 62 brilliant-cut diamonds with a total weight of .39 carat are set along the flanks of the case, including between the lugs:


This discrete setting, as opposed to the usual setting of diamond on the bezel, honors the clean, crisp, and elegant design inherent to all Patrimony Contemporaine models.

Like with the 40 mm Contemporaine, the dial of this smaller watch has a downward curvature at the outer edge. The finish on the dials of the Patrimony Contemporaine Small Model has the brighter finish that is also now (as of Oct. 2011) used on the 81180 family of watches, which used to be more muted in tone, allowing the hue of the base gold alloy, which also formed the base metal of the dial, to come through.


Vacheron Constantin has also released for sale, though not yet with a press release, a rose gold Malte small model, that features a diamond set bezel. This watch is 28 mm x 36.5 mm, and also contains the caliber 1400, which is visible through a sapphire crystal case back.



 

The dial really steals the show with this watch, having a complicated, textured pattern that subtly hints at Vacheron Constantin’s emblematic Maltese Cross.



Considering some of the response from the forum community after the press release for these watches, Vacheron Constantin would do well to make a 36 mm Patrimony Contemporaine Small Model without the diamond setting and market it to men. After all, the Malte Grande Classique, the first watch to contain the manufacture caliber 1400, was a 36 mm watch and sold well for the brand.

I will be interested to see how the Patrimony Contemporaine Small Model will be accepted in the crowded and competitive market for luxury ladies time pieces.


 

Bill