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A visit to De Bethune workshops

 

I have to start by saying how biased I am toward De Bethune! They represent for me one of the greatest contemporary independent brands in the sense that they are not content using traditional movements in funky designs but have an almost scientific approach to watchmaking, constantly innovating and pushing boundaries.

For me they represent 21st century watchmaking. I like to believe that if Breguet or Berthoud were alive they would not be creating watches using 18th century technology but would do what De Bethune is doing.

To give you an example since 2002, date of its foundation, De Bethune has created over 30 inhouse movements. The have developed and patented the world's first balance-wheel to incorporate silicon which they later used for other components such as escape-wheels, balance-springs, hands, bridges and collets. De Bethune has developed its own balance made of  titanium/platinum, creating an ideal mass/ inertia ratio.  a special its flat terminal curve in the balance spring enabling optimal rate performance and avoiding distortions. They have also developed a specific shock absorbtion system for both their automatic and manual wind watches.

So on a sunny April day I set out to Auberson to visit the workshops of this amazing brand. A brand set up in 2002 by two genies, each in their own field. David Zanetta a collector and connoisseur of vintage horology and watchmaker extraordinaire Denis Flagollet who had spent his career restoring vintage timepieces or creating movements for third parties.

Even though relatively small with a staff of about 12 and a production of less than 100 watches a year De Bethune makes almost all the components of its watches inhouse, including balance and balance springs!

The first room where I was taken to is where the CNC machines cut and mill the components, including screws and dials.


















De Bethune even makes its own distilled water for cleaning the components after the milling!







The next room was reserved for finishing. For me De Bethune offers the most exquisit finish out there, each component is painstakingly hand finished using traditional tools
















The titanium dials are also polished to obtain a mirror effect then heat blued and finally set with golden pearls representing the stars










There is a sand blasting machine used for the hands found on the Skybridge, the hand is first sandblasted, the tip mirror polished and the base heat blued!







The different DB calibers and...hands









The second floor is reserved for the watchmakers. Each is responsible not only for the assembly of the watch but also for servicing when the watch comes back. The watchmakers can work on all the calibers from the time only to the ultra complicated ones












underdial of the Dream Watch 5






Heat blueing od De Bethue's signature 3D moon composed of titanium and palladium







De Bethune also offers a "special orders" service where the client han customise the watch to his/her desires. Unfortunately I can't share with you photos of what I saw but below are two examples of whet DB has done in the past: 

A model with enamel dial, 5 day power reserve and tourbillon movement








DB28 Digitale with zirconium case and slate grey dial (a killer beauty)





The top floor is Denis Flageollet's playground. It is called The Lab where Denis and his team do all the R&D overlooking amazing zen fields.









The work is done either directly via CAD or even hand sketches




Using high magnification and slow motion cameras enables the team to also follow up on the reactions of the movements






A hammer type device is also used to test the reactions to shock!!





Unfortunately there were no watches for me to photograph since as either they were in the process of assembly or already sent off to their new luck owner. I did manage, nevertheless, to get a hold of the drop dead gorgeous DB25 World Traveller. An ingenious world time featuring also a  2nd timezone and date. The cities can be modified to fit the client's desired location.









The visit of De Bethune's workshops just confirmed all the good I thought of the brand. A small artisanal maker who has heavily invested in a state of the art facility and being able to fully control its production from A to Z and offering some of the most beautiful and technically stimulating watches currently available.


And the obligatory geeky wrist shot in front of the entrance smile



This message has been edited by MTF on 2017-04-19 08:40:30

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