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Baselworld 2015 : Patek Philippe Ref. 5370 split-seconds chronograph
For decades, split-seconds chronographs that allow lap times to be
measured without interrupting an ongoing event time measurement have
ranked among the most coveted Patek Philippe specialties. That was
already the case in the 1920s, when the manufacture not only presented
its first wristwatch chronometer but added the rattrapante function
right from the start. Thus, collectors, aficionados, and enthusiasts of
artisanally crafted timekeeping instruments are eager to welcome the new
Ref. 5370 split-seconds chronograph. Not least because its elaborate
inner life ticks beneath a genuine black enamel dial.
In 2009,
when Patek Philippe presented the caliber CH 29-535 PS, its then latest
proprietary chronograph movement based on classic principles (manually
wound, column wheel, horizontal clutch), it was already clear that some
day, it would be followed by a caliber with the acronym CHR, which
stands for CHronographe à Rattrapante, the French term for split-seconds
chronograph. That debut took place in 2012: Patek Philippe launched the
Ref. 5204 split-seconds chronograph with a perpetual calendar, a watch
type that adrenalizes collectors of the brand. Now, for the first time,
the Ref. 5370 incorporates the fantastic caliber CHR 29-535 PS in its
pure form without the added complication of a perpetual calendar.
Because
it is focused exclusively on time measurement, the Ref. 5370 has a
decidedly masculine face that appeals to men for whom certain values are
important, among them time, authenticity, tradition, functionality,
precision, discretion, and timelessly sleek elegance.

With the Ref.
5370, Patek Philippe also extended its range of pure split-seconds
chronographs with a two-pusher model, a stopwatch with two pushers for
the basic start, stop, reset functions and an additional on/off button
in the crown for the split-seconds function. This contrasts against the
ultra-thin Ref. 5959 monopusher split-seconds chronograph which has a
single consecutive-action pusher for the basic start, stop, reset
functions (3-phase column-wheel control) and an additional pusher for
the rattrapante hand.
A stellar achievement by the dialmakers
A
glance at the dial illustrates what in Geneva is deemed functional
beauty: fast and exact legibility without unnecessary embellishments
that distract from the essence. Thanks to slender leaf-shaped hands with
luminous coatings as well as the applied Breguet numerals in white
gold, the time is eminently readable. Stopped times are also superbly
legible with the slender chronograph and congruent split-seconds hands
in rhodiumed steel as well as the instantaneous 30-minute chronograph
counter hand in white gold and the white printed scales that stand out
prominently against the black background. And it is not just black, it
is intensely black, as is possible only with genuine enamel. This
emphasis on tradition is reminiscent of the most fetching Patek Philippe
pocket watches from the company's early history and of the roots of the
Stern family which owns the manufacture; when they acquired Patek
Philippe in 1932, the Sterns were already held in high esteem for the
dials crafted by their "Cadrans Stern Frères" business.
Enamel dials,
then as now, challenge the skills of the dialmakers to the extreme. The
solid white-gold dial of the Ref. 5370 split-seconds chronograph is
first coated with black enamel by hand. The coating is melted in an oven
at 850°C and then allowed to solidify to a glasslike consistency by
controlled cooling. The result is an intense black that preserves its
depth and gloss across centuries, as we know from ancient enamel
artifacts found in Greece. At this point, small bores must be cautiously
drilled into the hard, but also brittle, enamel to accommodate the tiny
feet of the applied white-gold Breguet numerals. They contrast well
against the black enamel as well as the white printed scales, one of
which is a tachymeter scale calibrated to 1000 meters. It underscores
the instrument-like personality of this split-seconds chronograph and
contributes significantly to its masculine appeal.
Power for tomorrow
The
caliber CHR 29-535 PS movement, developed and crafted in-house, has so
far only been built as a version with a perpetual calendar. Now, to the
delight of purists, it is available as a pure split-seconds chronograph
that melds tradition with innovation. Its traditional facet is the
underlying concept of a manually wound movement with column-wheel
control and a horizontal wheel clutch that remains the benchmark for
many friends of mechanical watches. To preserve this heritage in the
21st century, it was optimized in many respects and endowed with
patented innovations that make this caliber the most progressive classic
of its genre.
• Clutch wheels with patented tooth profiles boost efficiency in power transmission and reduce wear.
•
The mesh depth of the clutch wheels is not adjusted with an eccentric
next to the clutch lever; this is done much more precisely and easily
with an eccentric column wheel cap at the outermost end of the clutch
lever.
• Self-adjusting hammers in jewel bearings simplify the servicing procedure.
• The brake lever that stops the chronograph wheel is directly synchronized with the clutch lever.
• The slotted minute-counter cam coasts the chronograph and split-seconds hands to a stop rather than abruptly blocking them.
These new features of the mechanical chronograph are joined by innovations dedicated exclusively to the rattrapante function:
•
When lap times are stopped, a newly designed isolator uncouples the
split-seconds wheel from the chronograph wheel to eliminate unwanted
friction and prevent a degradation of balance amplitude while the
split-seconds hand is immobilized.
• The split-seconds lever that
positions a ruby roller between two flat heart cam shoulders keeps the
chronograph and split-seconds hands precisely aligned as long as they
are superposed.

These mechanisms are not only ingeniously
designed but also lavishly finished by hand as befits a Patek Philippe
movement. Most steel parts are painstakingly chamfered and their
surfaces straight-grained; the split-seconds clamps are polished. The
magnificent interplay of bright glossy and lustrous silky areas is
enhanced with contrasting golden hues and sparkling red bearing jewels,
showcasing watchmaking artistry that can be admired through the
sapphire-crystal case back. This quality of finissage is expressly
mandated by the Patek Philippe Seal, the watch industry's strictest set
of directives, as is the extremely high degree of accuracy that only
tolerates deviations ranging between +2 and -3 seconds per day.
A platinum case in point
The
CHR 29-535 PS caliber comes in a platinum case of befitting stature. As
the movement itself, it is crafted in-house all the way from the
original design and the blueprints to the 60-ton cold-forming presses,
after which it is deburred, ground, and polished in time-consuming
finishing processes. In the end, as is customary for all of the
manufacture’s platinum cases, a flawless Top Wesselton diamond is
immaculately set in the caseband at 6 o’clock. The last family-owned
Genevan manufacture: Patek Philippe's creative department is in the
family's hands as well: Sandrine Stern, the wife of manufacture
president Thierry Stern, is at its helm. The Ref. 5370 is an opus of her
design talent that has all the assets needed to become a grand classic.
Its gently sculpted curvatures and contours interact in a sublimely
harmonious way. The concave bezel merges the soft camber of the sapphire
crystal with the case, and the oval chronograph pushers on either side
of the new turban-style crown with the integrated rattrapante button are
symbols of balanced polarity. The strap lugs feature reworked flanks
that merge with the case in a gentle curvature and have a fine
horizontal satin finish which emphasizes their slenderness.
Additionally, the lugs do not merely taper out at the position of the
strap bars but instead are terminated with fine cambered white-gold
cabochons. Even though human nature is at odds with absolute perfection,
Patek Philippe has once again come very close with the Ref. 5370. For
the few individuals who will have the opportunity to wear it on their
wrists, this latest creation of the Geneva workshops is a truly
uplifting experience.
Technical data
Split-seconds chronograph Ref. 5370
Movement
Caliber CHR 29-535 PS
Manually
wound mechanical movement, split-seconds chronograph with two column
wheels, horizontal clutch, and instantaneous 30-minute counter, sweep
chronograph and split-seconds hands, subsidiary seconds
Dimensions: 29.6 mm
Height: 7.1 mm
Number of parts: 312
Number of jewels: 34
Power reserve: Min. 55 hours, max. 65 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet
Balance spring stud: Adjustable
Functions:
Two-position crown:
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
– Pulled out: To set the time
Displays:
Center hour and minute hands
Sweep chronograph and split-seconds hands
30-minute counter at 3 o'clock
Subsidiary seconds at 9 o'clock
Pushers:
Chronograph start and stop at 2 o'clock
Chronograph reset at 4 o'clock
Split-seconds hand start and stop at 3 o'clock
Hallmark:
Patek Philippe Seal
Features
Case:
Platinum
950, sapphire-crystal display back and interchangeable solid-platinum
back, crown with split-seconds pusher, oval chronograph pushers at 2
o'clock (start/stop) and 4 o'clock (reset)
Top Wesselton diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock
Water resistant to 30 meters (3 bar)
Case dimensions:
Diameter: 41 mm
Length (lug to lug): 49.92 mm
Width (3 to 9 o'clock incl. crown): 45.62 mm
Thickness (crystal to display back): 13.56 mm
Dial:
White gold with genuine black enamel
Applied Breguet numerals in 18K white gold
White
printed scales (railway-track minute scale, tachymeter scale calibrated
to 1000 meters, subsidiary seconds at 9 o'clock, and 30-minute counter
at 3 o'clock)
Hours and minutes: Leaf-shaped hands in 18K white gold with Superluminova coating
Subsidiary seconds: Leaf-shaped hand in 18K white gold
Chronograph and split-seconds hands: Sandblasted steel, rhodiumed
30-minute counter: Leaf-shaped hand in 18K white gold
Strap:
Hand-stitched alligator leather with large square scales, shiny black, platinum 950 fold-over clasp
Press Release
This message has been edited by Kong on 2015-03-19 23:03:04