Independents

I still remember the day in 2005 when De Bethune released the DBS. The moment I saw it, I knew I wanted it. It was well beyond my financial means and so it remained a dream, but a dream that kept alive over the years and that let me admire De Bethune's watches for what have been 15 years. When 2010 the DB28 that came out, the itch to have one only got more intense. To me it unites all that De Bethune stands for - innovative movements, bold design, new materials and exection to the highest standards - in one irresistible package. Alas, another 10 years passed, but when late last year this beauty came on auction my moment finally came.

After 4 days now with the DB28Z, it's time to share my impressions.

Design

One of the reasons I am so drawn to De Bethune's creations is the design. This watch is not elegant in a tradional sense. It is more a futuristic machine with the esthetics of a stealth fighter jet. Yet at the same time it feels like a jewel. Its surfaces are excuisite, it glows in the light. 

Although there's a lot of complexity in the case, the dial, etc. the overall design is very coherent and well executed.

Case

The case is made of Zirconium, a matte dark-grey ceramic material. It's lightweight, very hard and scratch-resistant. It is also used for the lugs, crown and buckle. The case is 

The signature feature of the DB28 case is the floating lugs, which are attached to the case at the 3 and 9 positions. Despite the large 42.6mm case, this design lets the watch sit snugly and comfortably on the wrist. The lugs are available in short and long versions to fit the wearer's wrist size. 

The lugs take up a design cue from DB's early "torpedo lugs" watches. This is just one example of the overall no-efforts-spared approach that makes this DB such an outstanding time machine.

Dial

This is the real deal! Partially open to reveal the pulsating balance spring and glimpses of the movement, the he front side of the DB28 is immensly captivating.The main part of the dial is finished in traditional Côtes-de-Genève stripes, which render light in a fantastic way. On top of that is a black, mirror polished triangular plate that is one of De Bethune's signature elements. The hour markers are mirror-polished 3D white gold balls surrounded by a shaped chapter ring sporting the minute track. At 6 o'clock sits the 3D moon phase De Bethune introduced with the DBS 15 years ago. 

The complex construction of the dial gives lots of visual pleasure. In one moment it's all a calm black background, with a slight turn of the wrist light plays around on the Côtes-de-Genève stripes and the pulsating  balance spring catches the eye.

Movement

De Bethune has always been about innovation in their movements. Much has been written on their development of silicon for the balance and regulator, so I won't go into more details here. What I love on the DB28Z version is that you're actually able to see the movement; the original titanium version had a solid Ti caseback with only a small opening for the power reserve indicator. In my view, this movement is definitely too beautiful to hide. The contrast between the black baseplates and bridges with the golden gears and PR indicator is a sight I wouldn't want to miss. 

Like the dial, it changes its character under different lighting from a stealthy black to an unexpected brilliance, reflecting light in abundance and showing off the immaculate movement finishing. 

 

The manual-wind inhouse cal. 2115 operates at 28800 vph and has a 6 day power reserve.

Conclusion

Thank you for bearing with me through this review. As you probably sensed from my words, I couldn't be happier. The DB28 is not the most complicated watch or the most novel. It is, however, one that unites highest quality, design, innovation and excuisite craftmanship in a way that I've not seen in any other watch, on this level.

Thanks for looking!

Best,

Daniel

  login to reply