IWC

Fx in Rome (part 7): IWC boutique

 

The IWC boutique in Rome, which opened two years ago, is located in one of the most prestigious locations in the world: Piazza di Spagna. And it is not an off-centered boutique since you just have to walk let's say 20 meters from the Barcaccia fountain to be in front of its door.

I already presented it in the report I did just after the opening in 2013:
home.watchprosite.com

So I propose you to focus on the watches I saw during this summer's visit. As usual, I tried to have a good overview of the current collection with a balance between complicated and simple watches.

Let's enter the boutique!

One of the main technical features from the IWC manufacture is the digital display for the months and the dates. And IWC uses it in different contextes like with the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar & Chronograph. I have mixed emotions with this intriguing watch. It embodies a very powerful style but it remains at the same time elegant thanks to the mix of Pink Gold and Titanium. The black dial is also very nicely made and the whole data are legible (what is not easy due to the combo of the two complications). But on the other hand, I prefer this style of dial lay-out with the Spitfire.

The watch is large (46mm) and at the end a bit too "show off" due to the contrast between the bezel and the dial. Even if everything is flawless and technically speaking very convincing, I was not under the charm. Actually, I think that the simplicity is the best companion of the Ingenieur line.

The watch is powered by the 89802 movement with a power reserve of 68 hours which is, in my point of view, the minimum for a perpetual calendar watch. I appreciate the decoration style of the movement, coherent with the atmosphere of the watch.

Obviously, the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar has a strong presence on the wrist reinforced by the bezel color.

The Portugieser Annual Calendar speaks to me much more. It is easy: I consider it as one of the best watches of the 2015 SIHH.

I like its dial lay-out, its design and I'm not shocked by the 44mm diameter which is here the right size due to the Portugieser elements of style.

The only point I don't like is the way the calendar data are displayed with the month before the date with the day at the end. Not a big issue at the end.

The watch is powered by the spectacular 52850 movement, a pure joy for the eyes. Not for the quality of its finishes. But due to its architecture and its size. It's a true pleasure to see a movement which fills the 44mm diameter. The power reserve is 7 days.

A beautiful watch which gathers all I like in the Portugieser collection: the railroad, the applied figures, the typical hands and, in a way, a certain pocket watch spirit.

If the SS version with silver plated dial is nice, the SS version with blue dial is spectacular. I'm in love with this one. I have to thank IWC for having made available this color with the SS case. Good choice.

Ladies are not forgotten anymore at IWC and the Portofino Automatic Moon Phase 37 is maybe the flag bearer of this new ambition.

I speak about a Ladies' watch but at the end, IWC keeps a kind of ambiguity. It is very cleverly managed because some male clients are interested by this collection. Anyway, this Moon Phase 37 is very nicely made and I have to confess that I've always had a soft love for the watches which display the moonphase... without any date window! So romantic at the end... the useful data is replaced by the poetic one!

We are back to the Portugieser collection and back to the Perpetual Calendar complication. We recognize the usual dial lay-out with the combined two moonphases indicator. IWC doesn't forget the southern hemisphere! The large moonphase subdial allows to decorate the watch with several nice little stars which bring a refined touch.

My only problem with this watch is the legibility of the date which remains, after all, the most important display for a perpetual calendar watch. I'm generally a bit confused with the power reserve indicator. Nothing serious when you are used with it. On the other hand, it is very positive to have a full display of the year.

The case diameter is the same than with the Annual Calendar but the perceived size is a bit smaller here since the dial is busier. The finishes of the dial are perfect and I like the combo PG case & slate dial of this version. The 7 days power reserve is obviously an asset in the context of a perpetual calendar watch.

The watch is large but thanks to a lot of details, it manages to keep its elegant style:

Here is the Platinum version of the Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde.  I still have the same problem with this watch. I don't know if I like it or not. I like its long power reserve, the original date display, even the location of the tourbillon cage.

But I'm not convinced by the visual rendering of the tourbillon itself. It is after all a matter of taste but I didn't watch its magic.

The caliber 51900 animates the watch and features a 7 days power reserve. As usual with IWC, this movements family offers a spectacular view thanks to the size of the caliber, coherent with the one of the case.

This 44mm watch is of course a wonderful part of the Portugieser collection but sadly, my heart was not seduced by it.

The Portugieser Handwound 8 days 75th anniversary is a very interesting watch to analyse. I will come back to it in the future. It is a bit the story of the detail which spoils the pleasure.

Let's face it: the watch is pure beauty. Its dial, its movement, its size consistent with the Portugieser history, we are close to perfection.

Sadly, we don't reach it due to the presence of the date window. I know that some of you like it as it is with this window.

But for me, this window was a disappointment. It also gives the proof that at one stage, even if the watch could be released without (the Portugieser Handwound 8 days already has the date), somebody at the manufacture took the decision to release the watch with it. For commercial reasons of course. Because there are more customers asking for the date. It is a pity. The 75th anniversary was deserving in my point of view a pure dial. The good point is that thanks to its color, it is quite discreet on the dial.




The watch is powered by the movement 59215 which offers a power reserve of 8 days.

I find the size perfect. The 43mm allows to enjoy the beautiful dial, the brand name writing and the large second hand. The dial is balanced what is very rare in the industry now with a 43mm watch.

As I told you when I presented the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar, I said that I was preferring the digital display in the context of the Pilot Spitfire. Here is the proof!

I like the colors and the use of a stainless steel case for such complication. I'm less happy with the rotor style of the 89801 movement, a bit too "gimmick" for my taste.

The case diameter is like with the Ingenieur 46mm but this watch looks smaller. And the purer dial is also a relief!

We didn't speak a lot about this Portofino Handwound Pure Classic and it is a pity because it is one of the most beautiful contemporary two hands watches. It gives the proof that the new style of the Portofino collection works well. The purety of the dial highlights the beauty of the two hands.

When you design a two hands watch, you try to not make it too large to avoid a boring style. After all, there isn't any animation on the dial.

So, this Portofino with its 43,5mm diameter could be a non-sense! But at the end... it is not!

There is something magic which happens and despite the lack of a second hand, I was totally seduced by it and its simplicity.

The combo of the hands with the applied indexes and figures is gorgeous.

The caliber 59060, with a 8 days power reserve, features a power reserve on the bridge. A great idea.

A beauty on the wrist:




The Chronograph Charles Darwin is one of the most famous watches of the new Aquatimer collection. Its bronze 44mm case makes it recognizable at first glance.

I like the dial finishes and the great care to details:

The solid caseback of the watch:

Despite its size and thickness (17mm!), the watch is comfortable thanks to an efficient rubber strap. I believe that the Aquatimer line is like the Ingenieur one... the simpler, the better. But I have to confess that the chronograph works also well and IWC offers with this watch maybe its best Aquatimer.

We started with an Ingenieur... and we finish the report with another Ingenieur but this time, much closer to what I expect from this collection.

Look at the hand and its red end: here is the Laureus edition with its blue dial.

If the watch is not powered by an in-house movement (a Sellita SW300), I like its design and its balance (40mm diameter).

A nicely made watch with a convincing design... which would deserve a better movement.

From the Portugieser to the Pilot collections, I could browse a wide selection of the IWC catalogue. If the watches tend to be large (and sometimes too large for my taste), they all offer character and style. IWC worked a lot during the last years on the movements and the new Portugieser Annual Calendar is the right example of the capacity of the manufacture. IWC is a brand on the move which redesigned one collection per SIHH during the last years. I'm now very curious to know what will be the upcoming novelties.

I would like to thank a lot the staff of the IWC boutique in Rome.

Fr.Xavier

This message has been edited by foversta on 2015-09-07 14:18:14