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Hands-On review with TAG Heuer's New Aquaracer Carbon!

 





When TAG Heuer announced the new trio of 41mm Aquaracer Carbon models last month, I was impressed most by the style and implementation of materials typically found on more “hi-end” pieces.



Without a doubt, this is the most “sophisticated” version of one of TAG Heuer’s more mainstream pieces. However, to be blunt, the price, just north of $4k USD [for the gold detailed version] left me a little uncertain despite the inclusion of red gold “lacquered” details and a carbon fiber bezel.



Sold exclusively through TAG Heuer boutiques and their online store, this   series is available in three color combinations, each produced as a Limited Edition of 750 pieces. 


As with many watches, the proof is in the pudding. As we all well know, watches tend to shine the best when experienced in the metal, or in this case, in the carbon. The Aquaracer Carbon Fiber is certainly no exception.



Upon receiving a review copy, my initial impressions gave way to admiration mixed perhaps with a bit of lust. I have to admit that for me, this is “the” Aquaracer that breaks the mold.



But where does it fit?

Several years ago, I purchased a Mercedes-Benz CLS550, a car I had lusted after for some time. What drew me to that particular model was an almost uncomfortable mix of luxury sedan and sports car. 
 
Even those in the automotive press were confused in defining what class this car occupied. Was it a family sedan or a sports car? 
 
In any case, it was the perfect compromise for a father shuttling kids to school and the guy longing for something a bit sportier.
 
I rediscovered that sentiment in the form of the Aquaracer carbon. At its core, it’s simply an Aquaracer, a mainstay of the TAG Heuer lineup and proven solid performer. 



Like other Aquaracers, the new models are powered by TAG Heuer’s Calibre 5 movement, based on the ubiquitous ETA 2824-2. It’s a rock solid workhorse throughout the industry with a reputation for reliability and accuracy.





But what makes this model so appealing is not the movement, but the overall style of the piece.



I typically think of the Aquaracer as a tool watch, rugged and reliable. But the carbon models, especially with gold, shed the utilitarian feel for something more unique. 



Harkening back to my CLS, the Aquaracer carbon, at its core is simply a rugged daily driver. Still, the carbon bezel and carbon print dial give it a distinct air of sophistication, especially when trimmed in red gold. 



But is it a tool watch, a sports watch or dress watch?

I’m not sure what TAG Heuer intended this watch to convey, but to me, it is a CLS. It is practical for in-and-outs of daily life, yet it dresses up well for a night on the town. And if you consider a traditional Aquaracer a sports watch, I can only describe this version as “hyper-sporty.”



While the Aquaracer Carbon series may not exactly be haute horlogerie, it is important to remember that most watches aren’t.  But what these watches do is raise the Aquaracer to the next level in defining TAG Heuer’s reputation for providing “entry level” luxury to those seeking Swiss quality with value in mind.



About the watch

As mentioned, the Aquaracer Carbon is built upon the standard Aquaracer chassis. Since some have asked for clarification, the case is not made from Carbon fiber as is the Bamford Monaco [at twice the price.] Instead, the case if made from titanium, then PVD coated. Though some questioned this decision, once you get past the novelty of a carbon fiber case, I believe it would ultimately compete with the unique signature look of the carbon fiber bezel. Therefore, I believe TAG Heuer made the right choice in going with the Ti case which would [I assume] keep the price down from the aforementioned carbon fiber. So not only does the PVD/Ti look better, it is simply more rugged as would be expected of an Aquaracer.



My review piece came with a black nylon strap with black stitching, though the other two carbon models come with blue or yellow stitching that correspond with their respective dials. 

The dial itself carries the carbon fiber theme, though the pattern is printed on the dial rather than being formed from actual carbon fiber. As much as I would like to see actual CF on the dial, from a normal viewing distance, it’s barely noticeable. I can only assume that TAG Heuer, during their cost analysis, realized the benefit of a true carbon fiber dial would be minimal compared to the increased production cost. 



Final thoughts

Of the three models in the Carbon Fiber Collection, my favorite is the red gold version. It’s creative mix of materials results in the most stunning Aquaracer I’ve encountered.

While some may dismiss it for the printed dial or [relatively] high price point [for an Aquaracer], I think it’s worth taking a step back and judging this watch in its own right. It brings a lot of visual impact to the Aquaracer that some may find lacking in traditional models. Comparing it too closely to other Aquaracers minimizes what the brand has brought to the table. 



In recent years, TAG Heuer has done a lot to energize the brand with the Carrera Heuer 01s, Autavias and others. It’s nice to see this same creativity trickling into the Aquaracer line.

At 41mm, I have to concede that it’s a size most will choose for such a sports watch. For me personally, I’d like to see this material combination make its way into a 43mm Aquaracer. It’s a great design, so if you’ve got it, flaunt it!



As always, I prefer an exhibition case back, but again, TAG Heuer is clearly sensitive to keeping the price down to ensure affordable exclusivity with its newest Aquaracer Limited Edition. 



In my opinion, I believe this is the sexiest most sophisticated Aquaracer in the TAG Heuer arsenal. Those who appreciate the classic, robust design of the Aquaracer would be wise to take a close look at these. Sure they come at a premium compared to traditional Aquaracers, but for a watch and brand considered entry-level luxury, the stylish Aquaracer Carbons add another benefit…entry-level exclusivity.  



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