Omega

Tony C.
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I've flipped (for a 30T2 Rg Chronometre)!

Ah, the dreaded “radial flip”. First alerted to this (arguably) flawed dial design by Michael Sanders years ago on TZ, I have, at times, shunned otherwise attractive watches because of the feature. Having said that, there is one particular vintage model to which I have long been drawn, and, interestingly, on which this particular flaw strikes me as trivial.

The model is the iconic Omega 30T2 Rg Chronometre. Produced in two basic case sizes, and both sub and center-second, there were, according to our resident Omega expert Bill Sohne, a total production of around 20,000 (compared to roughly three million standard 30mm movements). The steel cased versions are less common than gold in the smaller size (33mm), and the larger cased versions (35.5mm) are less common as a group. This example, which is my first, is the smaller, center-second (SC) version – reference 2365.

The engine which powers this classic watch is a refined version of the outstanding Omega 30mm caliber. When interviewed by Theodore Diehl for International Watch (October 2004), master watchmaker Roger Smith had this to say:

"From contemporary times, the Omega 30mm calibers are, in my opinion, one of the best designed movements ever made, and it has appeared in many different forms and types through the years. In horology, one always starts a new idea by taking the best from the past, and then you reinvent it. This Omega caliber has been a source of ideas and inspiration that has influenced my approach to the design of the Series 2 movement. . ."

And during another interview with Curtis Thomson, Smith said:

"In my view the finest of these movements were the Omega 30mm's. They were superbly proportioned and for a production movement there were no short corners in the quality of construction. Because of these qualities worn components were rare and servicing was a pleasure with the disassembly and particularly assembly being simple with the movements virtually falling together."

Smith’s views are fundamentally shared by countless watchmakers, and buttressed by 25 highly successful years of production (1939–1963), coupled with numerous precision competition awards.

While it is always a pleasure to own a vintage watch that is powered by a particularly good movement, appealing case and dial aesthetics remain, for me, crucial variables in any acquisition. I have tended, over the years, to emphasize dial design over all others. But recently, I have found myself gaining added appreciation for case aesthetics – especially as they relate to condition. By that I mean that crisp, nearly original case edges and shape appeal both to the eye, and to the touch. The angles also catch light in the way that the original designer intended, and the proportion of case to dial often shows a pleasing balance as well.

Luckily, this particular case has retained its crisp, original features. The simple, slender, slightly curved lugs are well-proportioned, and the relatively narrow bezel allows the watch to be worn a bit larger than expected based on its modest dimensions. The fact that it is made of stainless steel is also important, as it provides an ideal contrast to the beautifully patinated dial.

I’ve written before about the fact that vintage Omega dials are particularly prone to patination, and that it can either add or detract from the beauty of the watch. In fact, one of the great pleasures of collecting vintage Omegas is searching out examples which have dials that show a particularly attractive patina. Needless to say, I consider this one to be a good illustration of such serendipitous chemistry.

Not only do I find the colors to be very attractive, but two-tone dials, such as this one, add further complexity and contrast. The dial design itself is, to my eye, truly sublime. Pleasing, thin, printed Arabics with a hint of deco flavor (I find some deco fonts to be overdone), and a fine outer second track. The leaf hands suit the watch perfectly, and compliment the case, while the blued steel second hand adds contrast, and compliments the numerals. (Note that with complex, patinated dials such as this one, the appearance can change quite dramatically depending on the lighting. So, for example, in the first two images below, you will see the shading of the inner and outer portions of the dial appear to be inverted! In certain lighting, as illustrated by the third image, the dial also appears much more orange than green, and the blued second hand changes from black to bright blue.)

Oh, and that radial flip issue? Well, there’s just something about this watch and dial that make me forget all about it. Almost, that is.

Regards,

Tony C.