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SIHH 2009: PIAGET Watch Novelties

Midway between tradition revisited and mechanical revelations

The Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget has once again chosen to dedicate the new year to the theme of mechanical complications. In doing so, it is pursuing the significant efforts undertaken for over a decade in developing and perfecting a complete range of reliable and efficient complicated movements. Almost 20 exclusive proprietary movements have thus been created within a decade as part of the ambitious development programme of the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget – a feat to which even the most dynamic watch Manufactures cannot lay claim. All the mechanical timepieces by Piaget house a proprietary movement and their proportion within the global range is constantly increasing. Testifying to patiently acquired expertise and representing authentic symbols of fine watchmaking, mechanical calibres currently equip virtually all men’s watches and a steadily growing number of models in Piaget’s ladies’ collections.

For the company based in both La Côte-aux-Fées and Geneva – a site that has just been newly extended – complete mastery of the conception and production of the mechanical movements that power its timepieces is thus a genuine reality. But the House has also consistently distinguished itself by its mastery of the art of jewellery-making. United under a single roof, these two fields of expertise provide a guarantee of intense creativity – of which 2009 will provide another spectacular demonstration. The Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget is in particular unveiling two new mechanical complication movements designed, developed and produced in-house, Calibres 835P (regulator) and 860P (large moon phase) that respectively power the new Piaget Emperador coussin models. Moreover, other feminine mechanical surprises – Piaget Altiplano and Protocole XXL – will once again enhance this year’s new vintage.

Piaget Emperador coussin regulator
If there is one complication traditionally associated with watchmaking workshops, it’s the regulator. This manner of displaying the minutes in the centre and of disconnecting the hours and seconds is a watchmaker’s nod to the pioneers’ expertise. In the old days, the regulator was in fact the reference clock or master clock that sat enthroned in every workshop and enabled watchmakers to accurately set to within the nearest minute each watch that they had just completed. Hence the necessity of giving pride of place to the
minute hand, to the detriment of the hour hand.

In presenting the Piaget Emperador coussin regulator, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget did not wish to merely miniaturise this original configuration of the hands in order to adapt to the size of a wristwatch: instead, its master-watchmakers added an additional complication in the form of retrograde seconds. Mastery of the latter function is equalled only by its apparent simplicity, because retrograde seconds call for an impeccably reliable movement. The principle and the value of this function lie in the particular path followed by the seconds hand. Every 30 seconds, meaning 2,880 times a day, this hand jumps quickly and accurately from the 30 position to the 0 position before starting all over again. This naturally implies considerable tensions and forces in play, and means that developing such a mechanism calls for exceptional horological expertise. At the heart of this Piaget Emperador coussin regulator model beats Calibre 835P, an ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound movement measuring 3.92 mm thick.

Designed, developed and produced by the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget, Calibre 835P is equipped with a large balance with screws and a large barrel providing a power reserve of around 65 hours. Like all movements by the Manufacture, this new Calibre 835P is graced with extremely meticulous finishes. The mainplate is circular-grained, bridges are bevelled, while the decorative elements such as circular Côtes de Genève and blued screws are in line with the brand’s aesthetic codes. The Piaget Emperador coussin regulator is available in two 18-carat pink or white gold versions measuring 42.5 mm in diameter and fitted with a sapphire crystal case-back. A finely satin-brushed midnight blue or charcoal grey dial is guilloché-worked at 12 o’clock for the retrograde seconds, while the rim of the caseback is engraved with the year, the number of watches produced and the “Regulator” indication.

Ref.G0A34025 Piaget Emperador coussin regulator
Large model; 18-carat pink gold case
Blue dial, 18-carat pink gold applied hour- and minute-markers, retrograde seconds at 12 o’clock, hour subdial at 6 o’clock, central minute hand
Sapphire crystal case-back
Manufacture Piaget 835P mechanical hand-wound movement
Movement thickness: 3.9 mm
Number of jewels: 27
Cadence: 21,600 vph
Approximately 65-hour power reserve
Finishing: circular Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate , bevelled bridges, balance with screws, blued screws
18-carat pink gold folding clasp
Blue alligator leather strap

Piaget Emperador coussin large moon
The moon phase is one of the most symbolic and most fascinating complications of all, to which the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget now pays tribute by introducing the Piaget Emperador coussin large moon. This model is a paragon of purity and understatement, featuring a generous 46.5 mm-diameter case with an original and attractive moon-phase display at 6 o’clock. With its broad opening measuring 12 mm in diameter, this large moon reveals a wealth of subtle craftsmanship exercised on a heated gold plate featuring reflections symbolising moon craters. The moon-phase indication is provided by a mobile mask that gradually uncovers the white gold moon disc, before covering it up again. This display principle reproduces the natural interplay of the sun and the earth in relation to the moon.

This poetic complication beats to the rhythm of the new Calibre 860P, a self-winding movement designed, developed and produced by the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget. In addition to its approximately 72-hour power reserve, it features Piaget’s signature finishes such as circular Côtes de Genève motifs, a circular-grained mainplate, bevelled bridges, and blued screws. Available in 18-carat white or pink gold, the case of this Piaget Emperador coussin moon phase model is fitted with a sapphire crystal case-back serving to admire the movement finishing. Each model bears an indication, engraved beneath the case, of the year of production and the number of watches produced.

Ref G0A34021 Piaget Emperador coussin moon phase
Model XL; 18-carat white gold case
Slate-grey dial, 18-carat white gold applied hour-markers, sunburst satin-brushed silver-coloured centre, large 18-carat white gold moon at 6 o’clock.
Sapphire crystal case-back
Manufacture Piaget 860P mechanical self-winding movement
Movement thickness: 6.1 mm
Number of jewels: 25
Cadence: 21,600 vph
Approximately 72-hour power reserve
Finishing: circular Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate, bevelled bridges , balance with screws, blued screws
18-carat white gold folding clasp
Black alligator leather strap

Piaget Altiplano small second
Inspired by an historical model that was a best-selling ladies’ watch in its time, the new Piaget Altiplano small second is an elegant and extremely refined square watch. Its slightly curved 18-carat white gold case set with 48 round diamonds houses the ultra-thin Calibre 450P, a mechanical movement designed, developed and produced within the workshops of the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget. Showing the hours, minutes and offset seconds at 10 o’clock, Calibre 450P lends a genuine touch of elegance and mechanical passion to the world of feminine watchmaking. Loyal to the pure lines and distinctive classicism of the Altiplano collection, this newcomer plays on a blend of sensuality and femininity. Its sunray-brushed silver-coloured dial features airy, graphical numerals that contribute to the fresh spontaneity of the model as a whole. Meanwhile, the gem-set counter at 10 o’clock adds a further hint of refinement that makes this Piaget Altiplano square watch a truly unique feminine timepiece.

Ref G0A34079  Piaget Altiplano small second
18-carat white gold case set with 48 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 1.5 ct)
Silver-coloured dial and stylised silvered Arabic numerals, small seconds at 10 o’clock set with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.1 ct)
Manufacture Piaget 450P ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound movement
Movement thickness: 2.1 mm
Number of jewels: 18
Cadence: 21,600 vph
Approximately 40-hour power reserve
Finishing: circular Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate, bevelled bridges, blued screws
18-carat white gold folding clasp
White alligator leather strap

Protocole XXL
The Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget presents the latest addition to its successful Protocole collection, the gem-set XXL version. A timepiece that will appeal to women who are fascinated by mechanical fine watchmaking, but are nonetheless not prepared to do without an extravagantly sized gem-set model. The most imposing of the Protocole watches now appears clothed in 3.9 carats of diamonds that light up both the stylised Roman numerals on the white mother-of-pearl dial and the generous 42 x 46 mm case in 18-carat pink gold. A case which, despite its undeniable character and presence on the wrist, remains particularly elegant in terms of its slenderness and its graceful curves.

This Protocole XXL model is also distinguished by the pure, understated lines of its dial echoing those of the case. Perfectly moulding the wrist, the latter is distinguished by its bevelled angles and satin-brushed sides adorned with screws. Entirely crafted in-house, this new timepiece with its characteristic geometry perfectly reflects the two-fold jewellery and watchmaking expertise of the Maison Piaget.

At its heart throbs the new-generation Calibre 830P, an ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound movement measuring 2.5 mm thick. Designed, developed and produced by the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget, Calibre 830P is equipped with a large balance with screws and a barrel ensuring a power reserve of around 65 hours. Like all movements from the Manufacture, Calibre 830P is finished according to the brand’s distinctive finishing codes. This Piaget signature features a circular Côtes de Genève motif, blued screws and the inscription “Manufacture Piaget” followed by the calibre number. The new Protocole XXL gem-set model also comes in an 18-carat white gold version.

Ref G0A34018  Protocole XXL
Large model; 18-carat pink gold case set with 200 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 3.3 cts)
White mother of pearl dial, pink gold roman numerals set with 110 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.5 ct)
Crown set with 8 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.1 ct)
Sapphire crystal case-back
Manufacture Piaget 830P ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound movement
Movement thickness: 2.5 mm
Number of jewels: 19
Cadence: 21,600 vph,
Approximately 65-hour power reserve
Finishing: circular Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate, bevelled bridges, balance with screws ,blued screws
18-carat pink gold folding clasp
White alligator leather strap

With these four models destined to light up the year 2009 at Piaget, the Manufacture in Geneva and La Côte-aux-Fées is establishing itself more firmly than ever on the bedrock of pure mechanical watchmaking, as well as broadening its range of complications. It is thereby pursuing the path it has followed for over a decade and which has earned it due ranking as one of the most comprehensive and most dynamic Manufactures in the industry.