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Horological Meandering

Some stream of consciousness thoughts on tourbillons

 

I was asked recently, as an editorial advisor, my thoughts on tourbillons today.  I thought my reply to the EIC might start an interesting discussion here.

"Just a few quick knee jerk thoughts on the subject (sorry, limited to a Blackberry for the moment; if I had a decent keyboard and a bit more time this could be much shorter.

Or 10 times longer. 

smile

Raw and unedited -

Form vs function is one aspect of (the) question, just as it is in every discussion about luxury and substance (vs fashion vs style)

Tourbillons were a (high) complication at first because -

1. It was a new idea, a new approach to solve an old problem

2. It was, as a new idea, "very difficult to execute" both because of its newness and complexity - it was inherently "hard to do" in the context of the time (1790's-1810's)

3. Which resulted in the perfect ingredients for the marketers -

A. New concept
B. Appeals to the intellectuals and pseudo-intellectuals as a concept
C. Appeals to the mechanical snobs because of its difficulty 
D. Rare (due to newness, complexity, difficulty)
E. Expensive - high nominal margin ( - but D, E also therefore inherently elitist with attendant snob appeal)

So spun right, a marketers dream - in the 18th-19th century.

But it was a technological dead end, a commercial non-event, and lay dormant until the latter mid-20th century: how many tourbillons were made, in toto, before 1980?  (not a rhetorical question)

Then marketers and product development managers "rediscovered" (something the Swiss Watch industry is hugely successful at) the tourbillon, and with the aid of modern materials and computer aided tight tolerances the tourbillon became as ubiquitous as mushrooms in the forest after a rain.

What was once "rare and special" became common and banal, special only because the mar-comm department said it was, swallowed wholesale by gullible newly minted tycoons hungering for ways to spend their newly found riches to broadcast a facade of sophistication.

All of which is background to (the) question,

"What is a (serious) tourbillon today?"

(IMVHO)

1. It should be made to the highest standards, with the best materials.

This is just the basest of baselines (especially when "Chinese tourbillons" - note the bunny ears - cost a few hundred dollars and "keep time" as well as some $multi-hundred-thousand "high tourbillons." Having studied those Chinese tourbillons, they are "throw away" in terms of finish and materials quality but they do serve as a wake up call.)

From this baseline there are three paths -

2a. It should advance the state of the art and technology using modern techniques and knowledge about isochronism reconciled with the basic original principle of the tourbillon (corollary - when is a tourbillon no longer a tourbillon?)

(Greubel Forsey)

Or 

2b. It should stick STRICTLY to the original definition of the tourbillon, and use strictly traditional methods and tools, a la Ph. Dufour and his Simplicity in the context of the time only timepiece.

(Laurent Ferrier - but how traditional are they really, in their methods and tools? I really don't know but the finished product seems very very traditional)

2c. The concept of the tourbillon should be abstracted to the level of art, complex mobile kinetic art on the one hand, or reduced to minimalist essence on the other.

(Beat Haldimann Central Tourbillon, Vincent Calabrese carrousel golden bridge, Omega Tourbillon Central)

For me any of the above or any executions that fall under the above parameters qualify as a "(serious) tourbillon"

(Again, unfiltered and off the cuff - this was done stream of consciousness style, in between meetings and flights. Apologies in advance for any errors or omissions)

Cheers,

TM


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