foversta
[PuristSPro Moderator]
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The hypnotizing Ocean Big Date Tourbillon
As I told you previously, I had the chance to see during the 2012 Basel Fair the novelties which would be released during the second half of the year. Time is coming to present them to you, one by one. I propose you to start with one novelty which seduced me a lot: the Ocean Tourbillon Big Date.
Obviously, the Harry Winston teams like to play with the Tourbillon to create watches that highlight the hypnotizing character of the complication. The "Histoire de Tourbillon" collection has been created exclusively around on this topic. If this collection favours a complex approach with bold designs, the Ocean collection is more "classic" offering simpler Tourbillons in an elegant context without being too formal. So the Ocean Tourbillon (or Z3 when it comes with a Zalium case) and the Ocean Tourbillon GMT (or Z5 in Zalium) were the first Tourbillon representatives within this collection.
The Ocean Tourbillon Big Date is much more ambitious from the aesthetic point of view. It cannot be considered as a simple variation of an Ocean Tourbillon with a new complication, the big date display. Indeed, a particular work has been done to completely clear the area around the Tourbillon and to allow a spectacular visual dive toward the cage. In a sense, the Ocean Tourbillon Big Date adopts an opposite approach when compared with its predecessors. These are characterized by impressive bridges that completely surround the Tourbillon and that almost seem to contain it in a limited space. With the Ocean Tourbillon Big Date, upper and lower bridges (of the same size) are thin and delicate. They lift the Tourbillon which floats in space, suspended by this very light and discreet structure. The floating feeling is reinforced by the effect of total transparency that exists in the lower part of the watch dedicated to the Tourbillon. The result is really convincing and inevitably suggests a flying Tourbillon but with bridges on each side.
To pursue the same objective of visual lightening, the designers have replaced the usual second hand located above the Tourbillon by the shuriken. It is a good choice because not only the second hand is not very useful (the Tourbillon does a full rotation per minute), but increasingly it has the tendency to block the view on the behaviour of the cage. The presence of the shuriken which animation goes well with the Tourbillon one adds also a hallmark of the Harry Winston watches. It is not the only one because this Ocean Tourbillon Big Date is full of details that evoke other models of the collection.
The most characteristic element is of course the Ocean case with its crown protectors inspired by the shape of the entrance of the New York boutique. The pink gold or white gold case is as usual with the Ocean collection very imposing due to its 45,6 mm diameter and the prominent lugs. However, it is rather well adapted to the context of the watch because it allows to make more space available around the Tourbillon. Its specific design, the thickness of the bezel, the lugs size and the crown protectors define a powerful style and gives it a quite showy side, especially in its pink gold version. The contrast between this strong and bold case and the delicacy of the Tourbillon makes me think somehow about "Histoire de Tourbillon 1" with its two floating Tourbillons and its very generous case.
The upper part of the watch is dedicated to the time display functions. The time is displayed thanks to an off-centered sub-dial, a very typical Harry Winston feature, which diameter has been enlarged to the maximum. This is the reason why it is slightly cut above the Tourbillon. It is also spreading over the area dedicated to the big date but from this problem, the designers have created an opportunity. The sub-dial is located at the foreground while the big date is located on a lower level. This effect gives volume to the dial and avoids a sense of flatness that would have been inappropriate given the huge feeling of depth of the lower part of the watch.
The way in which the two digits of the large date are linked evokes the Ocean Dual Time even if a pure technical point of view, the system is not similar. While on the Ocean Dual Time, the date is displayed thanks to two discs, the Ocean Tourbillon Big Date uses the system which combines the 4 digits cross for the tens and a disk for the units. The two figures are not the same level but is not embarrassing here taking into account the style of the front side of the watch. The pusher located on the right side of the case is used for the quick setting of the date.
But the most unexpected detail of this watch is not hidden on the dial or the Tourbillon areas but between these two parts. Beyond the room which was created to take advantage of the Tourbillon revolution, an opening located under the dial makes visible the vertical lay-out of the movement. Do you remember the Panerai ad with the watch totally cut in its middle : the Ocean tourbillon Big Date gives a similar feeling, but this time with a movement that works... obviously.
The show proposed dial side thanks to the Tourbillon and shuriken animations and the feeling of depth clearly meets my expectations in front of such ambitious watch. Is it also the case movement side?
I only can say that we are facing an all-singing all-dancing movement. Jewels, blued screws, 3D effects, the original shapes of the bridges, the presence of a complication: all these elements are mixed to create a very luxurious atmosphere. If the quality of the finishings is flawless, I think that a more discreet style would have brought a positive impact. The beauty of the Tourbillon makes this excessive side a bit useless. A more low-key approach would have been maybe better to fully appreciate the Tourbillon behaviour movement side. Moreover, the front side and the back sides of the watch would have become more coherent. The indicator located on the left side of the movement is obviously useful due the 110 hours of power reserve when the 4hz movement is fully wound. It comes from Dimier what was already the case for the previous Ocean Tourbillon. This origin partly explains the baroque style of the decoration.
As I often say, a Harry Winston Ocean watch must always be tested with care due to the shape and the size of the case. I consider my wrist size as the minimum to wear it with comfort and with a nice effect on the wrist. But it would be a pity to miss for this reason the fascinating ballet proposed by the Tourbillon! It focuses the gaze and its delicacy makes us forget the imposing context in which it operates. The wrist hairs are unfortunately visible but the size of the Tourbillon cage makes their presence less noticeable on the background. It is clear that I would have preferred a plain surface on the back but the result would certainly not have been so enjoyable.
This latest Ocean Tourbillon is in my point of view the most achieved of the collection thanks to the clever use of the visual potential generated by the Tourbillon. The big date is in this context almost anecdotal and I wonder if the result on a base without complication would not have been even more spectacular. The opportunity which is given to us to literally go inside the movement is also a significant additional feature. On the other hand, the excessive style of the decoration of the movement could have been attenuated to be more in harmony with the delicacy of the Tourbillon. But despite this remark, the Ocean Tourbillon Big Date remains an accomplished watch thanks to the care to details and the perfect integration of the Dimier movement in the Harry Winston context.
The Ocean Tourbillon Big Date is available in pink gold or white gold case, with a silver or anthracite dial leading to 4 different references. Each reference is sold in a limited edition of 25 watches without forgetting 20 additional watches with gems set case.
Thanks a lot to the Harry Winston team for the warm welcome during the 2012 Basel Fair.
Obviously, the Harry Winston teams like to play with the Tourbillon to create watches that highlight the hypnotizing character of the complication. The "Histoire de Tourbillon" collection has been created exclusively around on this topic. If this collection favours a complex approach with bold designs, the Ocean collection is more "classic" offering simpler Tourbillons in an elegant context without being too formal. So the Ocean Tourbillon (or Z3 when it comes with a Zalium case) and the Ocean Tourbillon GMT (or Z5 in Zalium) were the first Tourbillon representatives within this collection.
The Ocean Tourbillon Big Date is much more ambitious from the aesthetic point of view. It cannot be considered as a simple variation of an Ocean Tourbillon with a new complication, the big date display. Indeed, a particular work has been done to completely clear the area around the Tourbillon and to allow a spectacular visual dive toward the cage. In a sense, the Ocean Tourbillon Big Date adopts an opposite approach when compared with its predecessors. These are characterized by impressive bridges that completely surround the Tourbillon and that almost seem to contain it in a limited space. With the Ocean Tourbillon Big Date, upper and lower bridges (of the same size) are thin and delicate. They lift the Tourbillon which floats in space, suspended by this very light and discreet structure. The floating feeling is reinforced by the effect of total transparency that exists in the lower part of the watch dedicated to the Tourbillon. The result is really convincing and inevitably suggests a flying Tourbillon but with bridges on each side.
To pursue the same objective of visual lightening, the designers have replaced the usual second hand located above the Tourbillon by the shuriken. It is a good choice because not only the second hand is not very useful (the Tourbillon does a full rotation per minute), but increasingly it has the tendency to block the view on the behaviour of the cage. The presence of the shuriken which animation goes well with the Tourbillon one adds also a hallmark of the Harry Winston watches. It is not the only one because this Ocean Tourbillon Big Date is full of details that evoke other models of the collection.
The most characteristic element is of course the Ocean case with its crown protectors inspired by the shape of the entrance of the New York boutique. The pink gold or white gold case is as usual with the Ocean collection very imposing due to its 45,6 mm diameter and the prominent lugs. However, it is rather well adapted to the context of the watch because it allows to make more space available around the Tourbillon. Its specific design, the thickness of the bezel, the lugs size and the crown protectors define a powerful style and gives it a quite showy side, especially in its pink gold version. The contrast between this strong and bold case and the delicacy of the Tourbillon makes me think somehow about "Histoire de Tourbillon 1" with its two floating Tourbillons and its very generous case.
The upper part of the watch is dedicated to the time display functions. The time is displayed thanks to an off-centered sub-dial, a very typical Harry Winston feature, which diameter has been enlarged to the maximum. This is the reason why it is slightly cut above the Tourbillon. It is also spreading over the area dedicated to the big date but from this problem, the designers have created an opportunity. The sub-dial is located at the foreground while the big date is located on a lower level. This effect gives volume to the dial and avoids a sense of flatness that would have been inappropriate given the huge feeling of depth of the lower part of the watch.
The way in which the two digits of the large date are linked evokes the Ocean Dual Time even if a pure technical point of view, the system is not similar. While on the Ocean Dual Time, the date is displayed thanks to two discs, the Ocean Tourbillon Big Date uses the system which combines the 4 digits cross for the tens and a disk for the units. The two figures are not the same level but is not embarrassing here taking into account the style of the front side of the watch. The pusher located on the right side of the case is used for the quick setting of the date.
But the most unexpected detail of this watch is not hidden on the dial or the Tourbillon areas but between these two parts. Beyond the room which was created to take advantage of the Tourbillon revolution, an opening located under the dial makes visible the vertical lay-out of the movement. Do you remember the Panerai ad with the watch totally cut in its middle : the Ocean tourbillon Big Date gives a similar feeling, but this time with a movement that works... obviously.
The show proposed dial side thanks to the Tourbillon and shuriken animations and the feeling of depth clearly meets my expectations in front of such ambitious watch. Is it also the case movement side?
I only can say that we are facing an all-singing all-dancing movement. Jewels, blued screws, 3D effects, the original shapes of the bridges, the presence of a complication: all these elements are mixed to create a very luxurious atmosphere. If the quality of the finishings is flawless, I think that a more discreet style would have brought a positive impact. The beauty of the Tourbillon makes this excessive side a bit useless. A more low-key approach would have been maybe better to fully appreciate the Tourbillon behaviour movement side. Moreover, the front side and the back sides of the watch would have become more coherent. The indicator located on the left side of the movement is obviously useful due the 110 hours of power reserve when the 4hz movement is fully wound. It comes from Dimier what was already the case for the previous Ocean Tourbillon. This origin partly explains the baroque style of the decoration.
As I often say, a Harry Winston Ocean watch must always be tested with care due to the shape and the size of the case. I consider my wrist size as the minimum to wear it with comfort and with a nice effect on the wrist. But it would be a pity to miss for this reason the fascinating ballet proposed by the Tourbillon! It focuses the gaze and its delicacy makes us forget the imposing context in which it operates. The wrist hairs are unfortunately visible but the size of the Tourbillon cage makes their presence less noticeable on the background. It is clear that I would have preferred a plain surface on the back but the result would certainly not have been so enjoyable.
This latest Ocean Tourbillon is in my point of view the most achieved of the collection thanks to the clever use of the visual potential generated by the Tourbillon. The big date is in this context almost anecdotal and I wonder if the result on a base without complication would not have been even more spectacular. The opportunity which is given to us to literally go inside the movement is also a significant additional feature. On the other hand, the excessive style of the decoration of the movement could have been attenuated to be more in harmony with the delicacy of the Tourbillon. But despite this remark, the Ocean Tourbillon Big Date remains an accomplished watch thanks to the care to details and the perfect integration of the Dimier movement in the Harry Winston context.
The Ocean Tourbillon Big Date is available in pink gold or white gold case, with a silver or anthracite dial leading to 4 different references. Each reference is sold in a limited edition of 25 watches without forgetting 20 additional watches with gems set case.
Thanks a lot to the Harry Winston team for the warm welcome during the 2012 Basel Fair.
Fr.Xavier
This message has been edited by foversta on 2012-09-04 13:34:02 This message has been edited by MTF on 2012-09-13 12:14:48
The hypnotizing Ocean Big Date Tourbillon
As I told you previously, I had the chance to see during the 2012 Basel Fair the novelties which would be released during the second half of the year. Time is coming to present them to you, one by one. I propose you to start with one novelty which seduced...
Love the white gold version!
Thanks for the review Fx, HW have done a great job with these. Cheers Andrew
The WG is the winner!
It's not for me, but that is a superb use of that base caliber! With the WG case, it's about as elegant as that case can be. A
Size
Cant help but think the size could be at least 2mm smaller. There seems to be a lot of "empty" space around the tourby. Also the HW name can be placed elsewhere also. But still a stunning piece non the less.
In a pure technical point of view, you are right!
The movement could have been housed in a smaller case. But the room around the Tourbillon contributes a lot to the visual effect. It would have been a pity to miss this feeling. Thanks for your comments! Fx
Thanks Aaron for your comments!
I have a deep regret: I forgot to do a movie of the revolution of the cage. :-( Fx
Amazing
three-dimensional movement! The new generation of HW Tourbillon -Ocean, Midnight, Histoire- makes me crazy! Thank for the nice photos. J
IMO...
The thing that stands out is how they did a great job with framing the date. While complicated, the dial layout appears easy to read yet flows with the overall aesthetics of the watch. Thanks for sharing the info on this piece, I'm sure it was hard for yo...