As I recently discussed Modern Perpetual Calendar Chronos with a good friend of mine, I thouhgt that it may be interesting to have a wider discussion, on line.
There is no revoultion nor even an evolution, on the horological ground, as both of the 3 last references share the same caliber, the 1141 QP.
Here, the aesthetic does it all, as we'll see.
1/ 47 112: ( 2 000 - 2 006 )
This version has some very strong points:
- The size ( 39 mm ) is good for an elegant watch.
- The dial is really nicely decorated, with triangular indexes.
- The subdials and date / months windows are located in a great balanced way, not too centered.
- The moonphase is one of the most elegant I know, a sculpture!
- The rectangular pushers and the Malte lugs ... I'm a big fan!
- Least but not last, the officer Case back, which allows you to have a view on the movement, when you wish to do so.
The Cons are not a lot, compared to its qualities:
- The thickness ( 14 mm ) makes it look a bit chunky, compared to the relatively modest diameter of the case.
- The size of the hour and minute hands, which, in my opinion, look a bit too short.
2/ 47 212: ( 2007 )
I see the 47 212 as an update of the former version, with some neat and subtle evolutions.
The more visible evolution is the case, which is 2,5 mm bigger ( 41,5 mm ), while its thickness doesn't seem to have been reduced.
I'd say that these 2,5 mm give some more harmonious proportions to the watch, which seems less chunky, more balanced.
The fabulous Malte Lugs are still present, while the rectangular pushers have been changed for some round one ( Why? My guess is that it is to preserve the balance of the case, when some rectnagular pushers would maybe mae it chunkier, but it is just a guess ).
The dial has evoluted in a more sublte way.
Here, the equation / phenomenon is well known:
Bigger case + movement whose size ( 27 mm ) didn't change=centered subdials, while their location was more balanced on the former version.
Vacheron used a trick: The indexes at 3 and 9 are touching the subdials, to minimize this feeling .
The hour and minute hands have a very elegant shape, and, at the contrary of the 47 112, the minute hand is touching the minute indexes.
The second and the minute hand of the Chrono, as well as the date hand are heated blue... A nice touch of contrast and elegance.
The subdials, guichets, and leap date are almost unchanged, though.
And last but not least ... The sublime grained dial, which was preferred to the smooth dial of the 47 112.
One thing I will regret is that Vacheron gave up the officer case back on this model, which was really interesting, to me.
So, to sum it up, the evolution is mainly about the size, with some consequences on the organization of the dial, the whole watch reaching another step in elegance, in my opinion.
It is also important to remind that among these 3, the 47 212 is the one which had the shorter life, as it was a " one shot " production of 50 pieces, and that there was no other variation, nor other metal for this reference.
3/ Patrimony Calendar Perpetual Chronograph: ( 2009 )
Here again, we have another increase in size ( 1, 5 mm bigger than the Malte Excellence Platine, and 4 mm more than the 47 112! ) to reach 43 mm, now, while the thickness doesn't seem to have changed, nor the movement, which is always the small 1141 QP.
While the Malte Perpetual Chrono was very typed, with its teardrop lugs, here we rather have, with the Patrimony, a Classic evolution, not only on the dial, but also with the case.
Here, the lugs are straight, almost angular, giving the watch an austere and very " serious " look.
The dial, smooth, like on the 47 112, looks ( and it may well be ) bigger, and gives the feeling that the subdials are even more centered than on the Chrono Malte Perpetual Excellence Platinum.
Even the hands are more classic, as Vacheron opted for Dauphine.
Yes, I think that the Patrimony is very well named:
The Evolutions are taking the direction of a more classic definition and presentation of this Chronograph Perpetual.
Wiser?
It will depend on everybody's taste.
Personally, I prefer the Malte Chrono Perpetual, for its very elegant, yet characteristic style, even if the two other brothers are also nice temptations...
And you?
Best,
Nicolas