Cormac
40
Vincent Calabrese Experience
I noted from the forum introduction that Vincent Calabrese was a founder of the AHCI. I didn't know much about him, but was very interested to read Thomas's interview.
I especially admired his "Spatiales" or custom pieces, however, I must admit that I wrote off his production watches since they were based on the common ETA 2892 ebauche. I know, I'm prejudiced. The fact that he produces commedic quartz pieces as well didn't help my impression.
This weekend, I poked my head in a fine used watch store in Manhattan and came across three Calabrese watches in steel. This was my first opportunity to see them personally. Transworld, Night-Day and Horus:
The store owner himself gushed that he never gets them and that I should snap one up at his great price. I pointedly asked if they contained the ETA 2892, and he said no, they were highly modified Lemanias. Expressing my doubt, considering the huge rotor arbor, he looked with a loupe, and found "ETA". That solved, he handed me the first, a never worn Night Day.
The owner (who has co-authored watch books for Heaven's sake!) went on to explain that they were from the late 1980s, were very rare and sold originally for $7-8 thousand US.
Fortunately he wandered off and left me to inspect the watches in peace. I am the first to admit that I am a Geneva standards snob, and usually get heartburn looking at the movements in lesser warches.
Looking closely at the Calabrese, (of course the back first) my heart began to flutter. For the first time ever, it didn't matter to me one bit that the basic ebauche was mass produced. I was looking at one of the most beautifully finished movements I had ever seen.
I then inspected the dial, which was unique and as well finished. It was clean and classic with an interesting but not distracting texture. Working the hands, I tested the jumping hour indicators, which went from Arabic to Roman with a pleasing snap. The dial on the Transworld was extraordinary, and actually reminded me of F. P. Journe's, where it's abundantly clear that the dial is made up of exceptionally well finished and assembled pieces. Although I didn't inspect the Horus, who's T lugs and thickness did not suit my taste, I now wish I had to understand the subtleties of the wandering regulator. Note that it always remains upright while the triangle moves to points to the hour.
I suppose that there's something about Calabrese watches that they simply do not photograph well. At least from the photos I've seen. In person, they are truly beautiful. Calabrese's first order in business should be to put some good movement images up on his otherwise very nice site.
With a retail price around $3,100 (and this dealer somehow coming to a similar conclusion) I feel that the Calabrese watches represent a very good value, considering the obvious quality of workmanship, uniqueness and style. If you're on a budget, but appreciate the exclusivity of an AHCI watchmaker, you should try to see a Calabrese watch first hand.
I think you can guess what will be under my tree the year.