Today, the Lucerne-based passionately puristic watch atelier ochs und junior presented their most radical watch yet: the ochs und junior perpetual calendar, setting a record of requiring only 9 additional (plus 3 modified) parts!
Functional. The sum of 40 years of watchmaking experience, Dr. Ludwig Oechslin’s perpetual calendar watch is designed for everyday use. It correctly displays the date for every month including February. Analog dots represent the year, month and date to address a key usability challenge with calendar watches: making the date legible, without resorting to an oversized display which distracts from reading the time.
Uniquely simple. Oechslin’s perpetual calendar function comprises just 9 additional parts plus 3 modified parts (*):
Dial*
12 hour ratchet wheel*
Date disk*
Baseplate for perpetual calendar mechanism
Date ratchet wheel
Bridge
Month ratchet wheel
Another bridge
In-between wheel
Month disk
4 year ratchet wheel
Additional tooth
For a presentation please watch OuJ' video:
Each part is designed to solve multiple problems at once. Like in software engineering and architecture, a simpler solution is more difficult to achieve, but technical elegance brings significant benefits. If a solution requires fewer parts, there are fewer interactions between parts, and fewer potential sources of manufacturing error. Oechslin strives to develop the simplest possible solution because he wants a more reliable result – and he enjoys the intellectual challenge. His ability to reduce a perpetual calendar down to 9 additional parts is the only way ochs und junior, a company with 4 employees, could bring to market an original perpetual calendar function. Oechslin replaces the R&D and quality assurance departments with greater upfront thinking.
They have a fantastic instructional video:
Reliable.
Fewer parts mean fewer interactions between parts and higher reliability. A lifetime warranty covers all parts designed by Oechslin. The base movement is Ulysses Nardin's UN-118.
Simple to set. In general, perpetual calendars are a laborious affair to set. Most require a complex system of pushers, and the date cannot be adjusted backwards. Oechslin’s perpetual calendar can be set simply using the crown, and the date is adjustable both forwards and backwards.Individually manufactured in Switzerland.
ochs und junior expects to manufacture about 20 perpetual calendar watches this year. The case is manufactured by Peter Cantieni in Hinwil, Switzerland, while the gear system, dial, hands, buckle and crown are manufactured by Helfenstein in Alpnach, Switzerland. Each perpetual calendar is hand-assembled and hand-regulated by Sandra Flück at the ochs und junior workshop in Lucerne.
Technical Data:
42mm grade 5 titanium case with screw-down crown
Dial, date disk, month disk, leap year wheel, seconds disk, power reserve indicator in gray patina
Markers in rhodium
Hour and minute hands in brushed platinum PT950
Date and leap year dots in orange
Waterproof sturgeon leather strap handmade in Switzerland
Wrist size of model: 165mm
I already had my hand on the prototype and will post much more in a few days! Until then, please visit ochs und junior's product site!
Cheers,
Magnus
P.S.: Text and images are a compilation from their Press Release!
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2016-06-28 06:01:36
Today, the Lucerne-based passionately puristic watch atelier ochs und junior presented their most radical watch yet: the ochs und junior perpetual calendar, setting a record of requiring only 9 additional (plus 3 modified) parts ! Functional. The sum of 4...
Really gorgeous. I like the watch as I like the brand. Didn\'t like the puristic approach of the brand initially but now I am seriously thinking in purchasing one.
I can't wait for the Grand Comp with only 16 extra parts in 5 years! Seriously though, I'm glad they are seemingly doing so well and not deviating from what they do best... clean, thoughtful, bespoke watchmaking.
to reorganise the indices, thus the whole point of the watch would be in vein. It comes, as all OuJ watches, with some time tax to get used to reading the indices, I admit. Magnus
And the result is definitely impressive! I have deep respect for the thought that went into making it a relatively simple addition to the base movement - what ochs & junior does best
great to see this latest pieced rom the creative mind of Ludwig Oechslin and interesting to note the base UN Calibre given his history with that brand. Dave
"Ulysse Nardin became a strategic partner in the spring of 2012"... Maybe there's a chance of an ochs und junior "Freak" ;-) with no branding or other distractions... Very nice perpetual calendar... Sticking with my annual calendar though - I like having ...
I love it--went through the whole website when the email came through. I'll admit, though, that I had a dream it wouldn't be priced quite so high (I assume the base caliber is a substantial part of that cost). As it stands now, I'll have to remain satisfi...
Patina copper dials, gold leaf index and dots, yellow gold hands and the terrific new case design in sterling silver. Couldn't be happier with this superb piece. Beat is top notch! ...
Can see the machining one the date wheel. This message has been edited by matto1 on 2016-07-02 16:01:50 This message has been edited by matto1 on 2016-07-02 16:03:40 This message has been edited by matto1 on 2016-07-02 16:03:54 ...
The process is so interactive, transparent and fun. I have only purchased watches thru Beat and one other fine gentleman in the past 10 years. That relationship and authentic connection (along with amazing creations) are what brings me back.