PeterCDE
10167
That?s exactly my nit to pick
Hi Dave,
there?s hardly anything new. I mean really new, things not done hundred years before like jump hours, lightning seconds, rattrapantes. There are new materials and new production methods, but after all, most complications have been done a long time ago.
At least a variety of guys, particularly within AHCI, do some very creative pieces which are NOT about acquiring parts "off the shelve" and put them together. This may be Peter Speak-Marin?s case work and rotor modification, the Calabrese?s unique movements, the Dufour finish, the huge Haldimann tourbillons. Or Richard Miklosch or Prof. Engel making unique pieces just like they were made then, not by CNC and CAD.
All of this does have an emphasis on the creative aspect; doing something new either that has NOT been done before or do it at least in a way that focusses on the creation rather than plain assembly.
Watch modularity is nice and sure it?s great to have a watch that can be customized.
Is that really new? Certainly not; all and any brands offer such services (GP even made a tourbillon with TI case and purple bridges back then).
And if that?s not sufficient, there?s a number of suppliers for customization. It?s like Mercedes-Benz and AMG, Brabus or one of the other tuners; whether you?d like a 600bhp engine or gullwings in your car, it?s just limited by the costs.
In the same way, adding a complication to a given movement certainly isn?t a problem, although for any mass-produced piece it?s probably easier to go back and buy one in the configuration that is wanted.
Personally i never found need to add a complication to any of my watches. But if i would, i?d rather prefer something different than a relatively average base such as an Unitas or Peseux and have it altered. Simply because it?s still a relatively common thing to have and there?s already a sufficient number of complications at all price levels to choose from. So if it shall be a special piece or something unique, i?d much prefer to follow that past and have the watch, including dial and case, custom-made right from the start.
Sure it is possible to plug in the Porsche Turbo engine in a New Beetle; but then, knowing you can buy the Porsche for the same money, does that make any sense other than for the style?
The difference towards a PAM080 is that one being highly collectible because the brand enjoys a certain fame these days; it?s not about watchmaking, but offering a (perceived or real) complication within a most successfull model line by one of the most successfull brands of the last decade. I think that?s a completely different approach; Panerai is about dials, style and "hype" rather than horological highlights.
Now to see an independent watchmaker taking the same road is somewhat surprising.
I believe that focussing on styles and brands, rather than watchmaking or individual creative aspects that make a given watch special, is very very unpopular these days. The right name on the dial apparently can be more important than a construction makes some sense or is at least nicely executed.
Personally i believe this is a very difficult development and looking back, i see quite a number of brands once to be "hip" disappeared from the block.
Finally it?s certainly left to each, just that the number of brands and individuals simply encasing readily available parts isn?t that small (and some do it for little money). My conclusion is such that watchmaking may be better served by more creative developments, rather than crativity spend on marketing.
Anyway.
Here are two by Moser; Moser (the man) was related to the founding of IWC back then and the brand is located in Schaffhausen. The CEO is J?rgen King, who was with IWC for many years.
Personally i strongly believe the movement to be the "heart and soul" of a watch, so i tend to look closer at these than the style or the look (it?s easier to make an in-house dial than an in-house movement either).
All movements are new constructions, mostly developped by Andreas Strehler. The watches are assembled in Schaffhausen, with the parts being produced by specialists to Moser?s specs (which is probably usual practice, but does not include buying readily available components off the shelve).
As far as i can see, the watch line is not too wide and all of them are relatively understated.
Moser Perpetual Calendar (less than 20K Euro)
pictures by Watchbizz.de
Given the number of unique solutions to them and the quality, which is quite highly praised by those who have seen them, i?d not be surprised if one will hear the name more often in the future. While they are not inexpensive, it?s not much money for what is delivered.
Cheers,
Peter