Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15300ST vs. 15400
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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15300ST vs. 15400

By Puffy · Jul 28, 2013 · 4 replies
Puffy
WPS member · Audemars Piguet forum
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Puffy shares a comprehensive comparison of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak models, specifically the discontinued 15300ST and its successor, the 15400. After a year-long quest for his next grail watch, Puffy details his impressions from trying on various pieces in London, offering a valuable side-by-side analysis of design evolution, wrist presence, and dial aesthetics. This post provides crucial insights for collectors debating between these two significant Royal Oak references.

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For almost a year I've been trying to decide which AP to get. They're all so nice- and since I started looking the one I like the most, 15300ST, has been discontinued not making the search any easier.

So I've been eyeing out the 15400 as a back up to the 15300 but not sold on how the design has evolved.  the 15400 is how the Sub-> SubC came about. 

London must be Europe's watch mecca. not the brand or reference that can't be found and here are some of the ones I tried on yesterday to hopefully complete the quest for the next grail (until the next grail comes along!)... 

my conclusion is at the bottom..

New 15400 left, older 15300s (dual times) centre and right

all great looking, RG the winner

15400 and dual time. dual time is great, useful complication. here they almost look the same size

now this is nice

proportions are how it's meant to look

two classic designs - 39mm next to 40mm

this watch is unreal. the dial is a bloody avant garde mess but comes together nicely

perfect

now onto the 15400. the dial is more of a silvery/creamy colour that sparkles. i like the stick dial and the AP logo sitting under 12. date window strangely small

i really love the bracelet

big wrist presence. slightly off-white/silver colour

very big wrist presence when comparing to 40mm

almost the size of a sundial!

some 15300 pics from a previous trying on session. nice flat white dial that doesn't sparkle

sits very well balanced on the wrist. lots of padding at 12 and 6

yum

the benefits of the 15400 is a larger dial, stick markers all the way round inc at 12, AP logo more centred which all give a cleaner look. 

the trade-offs, to me, are a more silvery and flashy dial. i'm not keen on wrist presence. the date window is also too small and while the extra two mm don't seem like a lot, the 15400 appears a lot bigger than the 15300s

the 15300's proportions work better for my wrist. i also think the dial is nice and the white more low key. now if only i could find a 15300!

About the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Ref. 15300

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 15300 represents a significant evolution within the Royal Oak lineage, succeeding the 15202 "Jumbo" and preceding the 15400. It introduced a slightly more robust case and an in-house movement, distinguishing it from earlier models that often utilized Jaeger-LeCoultre base calibers. This reference maintained the classic Gérald Genta-designed aesthetic while offering a contemporary update in terms of its mechanical heart and wearability for a broader audience. It is often considered a transitional reference, bridging the gap between vintage and modern Royal Oak interpretations.

This reference features a 39 mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 9.4 mm, maintaining the characteristic octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal screws. The watch is powered by the in-house Audemars Piguet Caliber 3120, an automatic movement known for its robust construction and a power reserve of 60 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch offers a water resistance of 50 meters. The integrated stainless steel bracelet is a hallmark of the Royal Oak design, ensuring a cohesive and comfortable fit.

For collectors, the 15300 is appealing due to its balanced proportions, which are often preferred over the larger 41 mm cases of subsequent references. Its in-house movement also adds to its desirability, marking a period of increased manufacturing independence for Audemars Piguet. The reference was produced with various dial colors, including blue, black, and white, offering collectors choices within this specific model run. The production period from 2005 to 2012 makes it a neo-vintage piece with a distinct place in the Royal Oak's history.

Specifications

Caliber
3120
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter
39 mm
Dial
Blue, Black, White
Water Resist.
50m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
BS
bsodmike
Jul 28, 2013
Hello!

Thanks for the wonderful snaps...! You'll find couple snaps of me trying on APs on my Flickr stream if you go back a bit. This was an older 'state of the collection' snap... Since then I've let go of the RG RO on the right and added a second Patek. BTW I dropped you a PM as well :) Best, M.

BS
bsodmike
Jul 28, 2013
As for comparison with the 15400

I too agree about the 'date' feeling like it's out of place... In terms of proportions though, the 15300 is spot on imho...

MI
MichaelC
Jul 28, 2013
Keep after it Puffy.

The 15400 was a logical update to the Royal Oak for a variety of reasons, but I also prefer the 15300. I wore one for a long time some years ago. It was immensely pleasurable; the proportions on it were perfect for my wrist. Sounds like they are for yours too.

RT
RTO (T8W8T8)
Jul 29, 2013
Just my 2 cents

IMHO 15202 is the best dial ever for the traditional RO, including date window size and numbers.

Available on the marketplace

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