Review
MTF's 'Just The Facts' article provides a comprehensive overview of the Calibre de Cartier Diver Watch, launched in 2014. This piece delves into the watch's technical specifications and design philosophy, emphasizing how Cartier integrated ISO 6425 dive watch standards with its distinctive aesthetic codes, making it a crucial reference for understanding Cartier's venture into serious tool watches.
Last week, our friend FrX, introduced the new Cartier diving watch to us. CLICK the following URL link to see:
cartier.watchprosite.com
In 2010, Cartier launched the Calibre de Cartier with a reinterpretation of the Cartier design codes: Roman numerals and flanged bezel that clearly identify it as a Cartier model. The powerful lines, rugged case and dial architecture projected confident masculinity.
In 2014, this Manufacture watch launches a diving version: the Calibre de Cartier Diver.
Technical Specifications
Upfront, Cartier designers wanted to assure themselves that the watch satisfied the technical requirements of ISO 6425 . This reference standard governs the “Diver’s Watch” appellation and stipulates eight criteria of reliability in a series of extremely rigorous tests.
With unidirectional bezel, water-resistance to 300 metres, hands and dive-time indicator in superluminova; it is entitled to carry the engraving: "Diver's Watch 300m" on the caseback. After satisfying the technical code, the watch also has to exude Cartier style to achieve a masculine watch for both everyday wear and extreme conditions.
Unidirectional turning bezel
The bezel can only turn in one direction to prevent any accidental rotation or alteration of the dive-time indication. There are 120 notches (40 teeth and 3 points) to enable adjustment to a half-minute, with a clear sound signal during the rotation. For greater visibility, the markers for each 5 minute period are clearly indicated.
Display in the dark
The Calibre de Cartier Diver can be clearly read in the darkness below the surface due to superluminova applied on dive-time indicators, hour and minute hands, pre-selection device and the small seconds counter.
Water-resistant to 300 metres
The Calibre de Cartier Diver is fitted with a thick crystal, a screwed back-case, oversized seals and a screw-in crown that ensure water-resistance to 300 metres.
When underwater, diving watches may be subjected to very high pressures and extreme conditions (salt water, thermal shock, etc.). This watch has demonstrated resistance to salt water after immersion in a solution of sodium chloride (30g/l) at 18 - 25°C for 24 hours. Furthermore, after spending 50 hours at a depth of 30 centimetres at 18 - 25°C, it continues to function perfectly under water.
Reducing case thickness
The goal was to maintain a balance of dimensions to produce an authentic diver’s watch, without sacrificing everyday comfort on the wrist, resulting in a balanced case measuring just 11 mm in thickness.
This Cartier Diver's Watch does not have to be unrefined or look like the back of a farm tractor to fulfil the role of 'diving watch'.
It is a crafted combination of a diving watch and beautiful Cartier watchmaking, with a striking contrast of satin and polished finishes, a turning bezel coated with ADLC and bordered with fluting reminiscent of the internal bezel of the Calibre de Cartier watch.
They followed with clear signs of its pedigree, like the oversized, luminescent XII numeral. In the all-steel or pink gold versions on a black rubber strap, the Calibre de Cartier Diver shows all the characteristics of the first Calibre de Cartier model from 2010. It has the same powerful shape, robust case and 1904 MC Manufacture movement.
1904 MC Movement
Introduced in 2010, the 1904 MC was the first self-winding movement to be developed and assembled by Cartier’s watchmakers. The highly symbolic reference number recalls the year 1904, when Louis Cartier created one of the earliest modern wristwatches for his pilot friend, Alberto Santos-Dumont.
This 11 ½ ligne calibre was designed to maintain perfect chronometric stability thanks to a double barrel for constancy of the mainspring torque over a long period.
Fitted with a fine regulating system and a stop-second mechanism, it enables the Manufacture to adjust for best chronometry and precision.
The winding rotor is mounted on a central ceramic ball-bearing that gives it excellent shock-resistance and ensures its durability. The ratchet system of bidirectional winding makes the watch quicker and more comfortable to wind.
Fine watchmaking finishes that go beyond what is visible. The decorators’ endless quest for beauty produces the most impressive results in fine watchmaking movements. The care lavished on the finishes of the calibre 1904 MC demonstrates Cartier’s extremely high standards when creating a movement to power a watch intended for professional use and everyday wear: the Calibre de Cartier Diver.
CALIBRE DE CARTIER DIVER WATCH IN STEEL
CASE: STEEL
THICKNESS: 11 MM
DIAMETER: 42 MM
CROWN: FACETED STEEL SET WITH A FACETED SYNTHETIC SPINEL
BEZEL: UNIDIRECTIONAL, STEEL COATED WITH ADLC
CRYSTAL: SAPPHIRE
WATER-RESISTANCE: 300 M
DIAL: BLACK, PARTIALLY SNAILED, WITH XII IN SUPERLUMINOVA
HANDS: SWORD-SHAPED WITH SUPERLUMINOVA
STRAP: RUBBER
BUCKLE: STEEL ARDILLON BUCKLE
CALIBRE DE CARTIER DIVER WATCH IN PINK GOLD
CASE: 18-CARAT PINK GOLD
THICKNESS: 11 MM
DIAMETER: 42 MM
CROWN: FACETED 18-CARAT PINK GOLD SET WITH A FACETED SAPPHIRE
BEZEL: UNIDIRECTIONAL, 18-CARAT PINK GOLD COATED WITH ADLC
CRYSTAL: SAPPHIRE
WATER-RESISTANCE: 300 M
DIAL: BLACK, PARTIALLY SNAILED, WITH XII IN SUPERLUMINOVA
HANDS: SWORD-SHAPED WITH SUPERLUMINOVA
STRAP: RUBBER
BUCKLE: ARDILLON BUCKLE IN 18-CARAT PINK GOLD
Cartier manages the trick that every watch immediately is recognized as a Cartier, despite completely different shapes and appearances. Marcus
Marcus, Some commentators have picked out the date display or the Roman numeral or the small seconds on the Calibre de Cartier Diver's Watch as features inconsistent with a diver's watch. Those are the design cues of the Calibre de Cartier range of watches but they are not governed by the ISO criteria for a diver's watch. The result is a certified diver's watch that is instantly recognisable as a Cartier product. Regards, Melvyn
... which should not be taken as biblical commandment anyway. There are very famous diving watches that do not meet all ISO/DIN criteria: Rolex' SeaDweller or IWC's Ocean 2000 just coming to my mind, but as a matter of fact, the majority of diving watches violate the criteria in one or several respects (no minute subdivision on the rotating bezel all way round, no luminous mass on the permanent second hand, and so on). What I was ranting about was the aesthetic aspect of the so-called strip date
Marcus, I am puzzled by this type of date display. Many brands use it like Montblanc, Piaget and Gerald Genta, to name a few more. I always know the date before AND after today's date so why do they have to show me what they are? The only logical explanation was given by Gerald Genta when they applied luminova to the date numerals and had to expose the "following" date through a tinted window (today) so it was "charged" by sunlight BEFORE making its official appearance (tomorrow). Regards, MTF
I think it was given by IWC. They stated that the strip date makes it possible to read the date even when the minute hand would cover a conventional date window. While this is a sound argument, I am sceptical about the compromises caused for the overall dial design. Marcus
:-)
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