Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX3 Boutique Edition Review
Review

Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX3 Boutique Edition Review

By amanico · Sep 11, 2011 · 25 replies
amanico
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Amanico's review of the Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX3 Boutique Edition offers a detailed look at this limited-edition timepiece, highlighting its unique ceramic and titanium construction and distinctive dial elements. This article provides valuable context by comparing it to previous AMVOX3 iterations, exploring how this version pushes the boundaries of sporty tourbillon design within the JLC-Aston Martin collaboration. Amanico's insights into its aesthetic and horological significance are particularly useful for collectors.

I'm pretty sure you don't know this version.

It was introduced in the collection last year, and the first pieces landed to the JLC Boutiques a few months ago.

Yes, you read well, this is a version entirely dedicated to the JLC Boutiques, in a limited edition of 35 pieces.

So, after the release of the Amvox 3 in ceramic / rose gold in 2008, followed, in 2009, by the ceramic / platinum version, here is the latest, and maybe the last, evolution in a ceramic / titanium case.

The Amvox 3 Ceramic / Rose Gold, limited to 300 pieces:







The Amvox 3 Ceramic / Platinum, limited to 300 pieces, as well:







They were two:



Now, they are three...



Before having a look at this Boutique Edition, let's remind what is the Amvox 3.

1/ This is the third opus born from the Aston Martin and JLC collaboration, and certainly the highest one, horologically speaking, as it houses the Tourbillon in a sporty watch, with the addition of a 2d time zone.

2/ This is, also, JLC, the first round case to use the ceramic ( the Squadra World Time, introduced in 2006, was the first one, but it was, of course, a rectangular case ).

3/ This is the first watch to borrow a part of the Extreme Lab 1 Technology ( the oscillating weight in platinum and irridium, and carbon fibres.

4/ As every other Amvox, it includes some elements of design which directly come from the Automobile world, like the tourbillon bridge, the open dial, the pilot style strap, and the stainless steel crown, shaped like a Vintage cap tank .

The 2 former versions of the Amvox III were " sport chic ", this third interpretation goes a step further in terms of sportivity and dynamism.

Let's discover it.

- The Dial:



Even if you know the Amvox 3 very well, this new presentation immediately jumps to the eyes.

Less discrete than the " rose gold " or " platinum " version, it looks, undisputably, more dynamic, younger.

The black grid patterned dial has been replaced for a light grey, almost silver one, and the Tourbillon bridge is orange, now, as well as some very small touches on the date ring.

I find the combination of colors appealing: The dial has a lot of life, is nicely contrasted- the black PVD AM / PM bridge gives some depht to the silver grid pattern- and the orange touches literally pop up in a young and fresh way.



The Hour numbers are filled with a white luminous material, which is another difference with the former Amvox 3s.

Similar, but so different, at the same time:



You will, of course, find the same functions: The Hours, minutes, and seconds, but also the 2d time zone, which is displayed by a 2d Hour Hand, which is enriched by a AM / PM disc, at 12 o' clock, to give you a precise repere.

The Home Time hour hand is linked to the date, which jumps from one side to the other side of the Tourbillon from the 31th of the month, to the first day of the next month... Astucious.

And, cherry on the cake, you have the same sophistication, with a nice Tourbillon on the dial side, at 6 o'clock.



The Tourbillon bridge is in anodised aluminium, painted in orange, to be precise.

And for those who could wonder why the use of such a color, I found a picture from Aston Martin, provided by Adamska, which explains, better than words, this chromatic choice:



- The Case:

The 44 mm big and 15, 24 mm high case is always made in ceramic, but here, instead of being in rose gold or platinum, the case back ring is made of Titanium Grade 5.

I'm not a big fan of the black cases, which I find too trendy for my taste, but on such a watch, I like it, maybe because it enhances the " technicality " of the watch?

Indeed, a Tourbillon + a 2d Time Zone + a partial jumping date + the innovative rotor coming from the Extreme Lab 1, that is which we could call a " technical " watch.

What kind of material could match better than Ceramic on this watch?

Here, the ceramic is, in fact, a blend of Zirconium ( 95 % ) and yttrium ( 5 % ) oxides, which is sumbitted to high pressure and then fired at around 2 000 degrees.

After, the ceramic case is shaped with some tools equipped with diamond heads, polished and finished with diamond powder.

The result? A strong look for an amazingly light weight, as the ceramic is slightly heavier than Titanium.

- The Movement:

The movement of the Amvox 3 is the dign son of two well known Calibres: The Cal 978, from the Master Tourbillon, and the Cal 988 C, from the Master Compressor Extreme Lab.

The Cal 978:



The Cal 988 C:



Basicaly, the Amvox 3 movement is a Cal 978, with the original rotor of the Extreme Lab One.

The Cal 988:



Lighter than a classic rotor, it is also thinner, due ot its carbon fibre structure, and the oscillating segment, made in an alloy of platinum and irridium, is very dense.

It also offers an improvement in winding performances.

Though, the power reserve is not more important in these 3 Tourbillons from JLC, as they both share an autonomy of 48 hours.

One thing is an indisputable: These Tourbillons are real champions in accuracy, as it was demonstrated during the last Chronometry contest, one year ago, where JLC was ranked Nr 1 and 2 with the Gyrotourbillon 1 and the Master Tourbillon.

Indeed, its precision is - 1 + 4 secs per day, while the Cosc is -4 +6, and the 1 000 Hours Control is -1 + 6.



Not bad looking for a sporty piece...

So, what to think about the Amvox 3 " Boutique "?

The problem with the Amvox 3 is that it is not playing in the same horological and financial league.

So, the happy owners of the Amvox 1 and / or 2 were a bit frustrated ( and I include myself ) to see that huge financial gap, in terms of budget.

BUT, on another note, you have a ceramic case, an in house Tourbillon, a 2d Time Zone, in a seducing package.

The " Boutique " is much less expensive than the Rose Gold, though. ( the retail of the " Boutique " being 45 000 Euros ).

In my opinion, the Amvox 3 Boutique is maybe the most interesting Amvox 3... IN MY OPINION.

The choice of the titanium and the option of a young, fresh and dynamic color ( orange ) for the tourbillon bridge, as well as the silver light grey grid pattern of the dial, all tese details are coherent in a sporty watch, which stays elegant.

It will all depend on the taste of the future owner, between an elegant and quite discrete watch, and a younger one.

To each his own, even if we may regret seeing so many iterations of the same watch, once again.

Best,

Nicolas This message has been edited by amanico on 2011-09-11 00:50:01 This message has been edited by amanico on 2011-09-14 23:28:10

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
AN
Andy
Sep 11, 2011

this version, particularly with the orange bridge, is beautiful. Unfortunately as I have said before, and I am in the small minority here, but I don't like the collaboration with Aston Martin (AM) on any of the AMVOX range. I thought this collaboration was ending..? I'd still love to see a modern AMVOX 1 with some of these nice details from the AMVOX 3 dial but designed by JLC and not influenced by AM. This is the same reason I havn't got a NSA too..! The Polaris is nice with a vintage feel, the

AM
amanico
Sep 11, 2011

And the worse in an ugly watch. My position here is quite simple, not to say simplist: If the watch is nice, I don't care about a " collaboration watch ". This is not the reason why I would go or not go on a watch. I had fresh news from Mr Lambert recently about the collaboration between AM and JLC, and it seems that this collaboration is still existing and will give birth ot other horological projects. There are some sporty watches which are not co signed, Andrew: The Extrem Lab I and II, the C

FO
foversta
Sep 11, 2011

First of all, thanks for the clear presentation, the explanations and the great pictures. Always a great pleasure to read your posts. Now, let's talk about this latest Amvox 3. I really think that it is a dispensable watch. I don't see the point about it. I can, with some efforts, understand the first two versions of the Amvox 3 (even the PG one...) which managed to stay in the limit of the coherence with a subtle elegancy. They combined with a quite successful approach the sportive context with

AM
amanico
Sep 11, 2011

A Sporty Tourbillon is always something questionnable, and the Amvox III, all versions included, don't make exception to the rule. This one is an audacious version, with this orange bridge, and here again, it may please or not, it iwll of course depend on everybody's taste. I appreciate a lot your frank words, Fx. Best, Nicolas.

GR
grigo
Sep 11, 2011

The Nicolas's post and yours, I am now going back to read them both ver y carefully to form an opinion. A difficult task. Thanks to the two of you for openning such an interesting debate. Best regards, George

WA
watchme
Sep 11, 2011

but, like the Royal Oak and so many other high-end icons, how many ways can we keep re-inventing the wheel? -Dean

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