Omega Moonwatch Hesalite: Collector's Guide
Reference Guide

Omega Moonwatch Hesalite: Collector's Guide

By Subexplorer · Jun 11, 2021 · 39 replies
Subexplorer
WPS member · Omega forum
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Subexplorer, a respected voice in the WatchProSite community, shares his detailed rationale for choosing the Hesalite version of the new Omega Moonwatch. His personal account offers invaluable insights for collectors weighing the subtle yet significant differences between the Hesalite and sapphire variants, particularly for those considering a modern Speedmaster as a cornerstone of their collection. This article distills the nuances that inform a collector's choice, making a 2021 forum post relevant to today's enthusiasts.

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Hello friends!!

During my last visit to our local Omega Boutique I was shown (and tempted by) the new version of the Moonwatch introduced at beginnings of this year replacing the previous reference 311.30.42.30 … which had been in production from 2014 through 2020.

This post does not pretend to be a comparison between the old and the new model nor a report about the new Moonwatch but just explain why I finally opted to bring home the Hesalite variant.

Basically there are two models: ref 310.30.42.50.01.001 with Hesalite glass and solid case back and reference 310.30.42.50.01.002 (a.k.a. sapphire sandwich) with sapphire glass both over dial and on case back allowing to view the new beautiful co axial movement 3862 which replaces the venerable 1680 series of previous models.

The Hesalite model is the “standard” version while the “sandwich sapphire” a more de luxe option. 

Both watches offer the new steel bracelet.



My friendly Astronaut greets the landing of this new member of the collection!



(There are two additional options on each version: a nylon and a leather strap instead of steel bracelet is available for each variant standard or de luxe respectively.)

Now I must confess it was not an easy matter for me to decide which version purchase. I know that when confronted with this kind of dilemmas the best solution is… buy both!

But having taken delivery of my Snoopy on that same visit financially limited me to choose just one.

So I examined each of the differences between both equally tempting variants as follows:

Case: both Hesalite and sapphire have identically finished cases.

Dial: both variants offer same beautiful “step” dial a great plus over the old model offering now a similar dial like the first vintage references of the Speedy. I love the step dials and feel it is a great improvement in looks of this new version of the Speedmaster.

Omega logo on dial: painted on Hesalite applied on sapphire. I like the applied logos best… but painted is more authentic in this model inspired I guess in ref 145.012 of around 1967.

Case back.

Though the sapphire offers a transparent back which allows to enjoy the view of the beautiful new 3861 movement I liked so much the closed back of Hesalite with all inscriptions and the “Sea Monster” embellishment. Additionally the new closed back shows the classic bevel of early Speedmaster references.





 (notice the adding of “in 1965” in the classic inscriptions! And the traditional bevel of early references near the opening notches)

Bracelet: 
The new bracelet is beautiful and super comfortable. Its very similar to that introduced in the gold Moonshine model of 2019. The clasp is identical but 15 mm wide while the Moonshine is 14 mm. 

Both variants share the same bracelet but the Hesalite’s is fully brushed finished while the sapphire’s has central links polished in two rows giving a more luxurious looks.







I love both bracelets looks but felt the full brushed gave the Hesalite a more vintage look in a workhorse Speedmaster.

Finally … as much as I like the possibility of viewing the movement of my watches (I own both versions hesalite and sapphire sandwich of the previous model) I love the warmer looks of Hesalite and I don’t like so much the “ milk ring” which surrounds the sapphire. Just a little distracting detail of course and the price to pay for a more scratches resistant glass which many watch owners prefer.

By the way the hesalite model height is 13,58 mm while the sapphire is a bit lower at 13,18 mm.

Well, fact is that after several trials on my wrist and much talking with the manager of the Boutique exchanging opinions I finally opted for the Hesalite version.

Of course it’s just a personal choice and I’m sure that you can’t never go wrong with whichever variant of this classic watch you decide to buy. 

Going with standard hesalite or luxury way with sapphire you are assured to get a first class new version of this famous classic: the timeless Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch!!

Best cordial regards 
Abel












The new Hesalite Moonwatch Master chronometer in the middle and my sapphire (left) and Hesalite (right) previous models.




Time to fit the bracelet at home!!




Love the step dial!!



The “milk ring” surround of sapphire glass is evident on the right side watch. Hesalite at left.




The new bracelet at left. Previous bracelet at right. New bracelet is beautiful and very comfortable.



About the Omega Ref. 3861

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional, reference 3861, represents a significant evolution within the Speedmaster collection. This reference updates the core Moonwatch design while incorporating modern technical advancements, maintaining its established aesthetic. It is positioned as a contemporary iteration of a well-known chronograph, appealing to collectors who appreciate both heritage design and updated mechanical performance. The model is offered in various material configurations, providing options for different collector preferences.

This Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional features a 42 mm case, with a thickness of 13.18 mm. The case houses the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, a manual-winding movement. The crystal protecting the dial is available in hesalite or sapphire, depending on the specific sub-reference. The movement provides a power reserve of 50 hours, ensuring reliable operation over an extended period.

The reference 3861 appeals to collectors seeking a Speedmaster with enhanced precision and anti-magnetic properties, certified as a Master Chronometer. Its availability in materials such as stainless steel and Moonshine™ gold allows for diverse collecting strategies. The consistent case dimensions and movement across these variants underscore a unified design approach, while material choices offer distinct visual and tactile experiences.

Specifications

Caliber
Omega 3861
Case
Stainless Steel, Moonshine™ Gold
Diameter
42 mm
Dial
Black
Water Resist.
50 meters
Crystal
Hesalite or Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
MI
MikiJ
Jun 11, 2021
Also available with Omega's nylon strap with deployant :-)

I find this new strap and buckle to be the most comfortable strap I've ever worn especially on an everyday basis.

SU
Subexplorer
Jun 11, 2021
Hello MikiJ! That´s correct. As I mentioned there is a variant with the nylon straps and deployant for the Hesalite variant and black leather for the sapphire version.

They are very comfortable indeed. Enjoy your Speedy so much! Cheers! Abel

MI
MikiJ
Jun 11, 2021
Yes, you certainly did...

Unfortunately I didn't go completely through your most through review. As soon as I saw that this latest version, I was sold on the stepped dial and DON Bezel

SU
Subexplorer
Jun 11, 2021
Thank you so much again dear Miki! Agree with you that the stepped dial and DON bezel are wonderful changes introduced in this new version. Hope you are enjoying yours so much!! Cheers! Abel

MI
MikiJ
Jun 11, 2021
I'm really in a conflict with this new Speedy...

If an original 145.022-69 with a 220 bezel, then I'm in trouble ;-(

SU
Subexplorer
Jun 12, 2021
Well Miki... I feel that vintage and modern play in very different Leagues. Like all modern versions of the Moonwatch this one allows to enjoy the character of a classic and timeless...

... design like the Speedmaster with peace of mind regarding waterproofness, a modern and high tech movement and availability of service and parts. Vintage world is like a mine field with many dangers at finding an absolutely original or correct piece. We also have many concerns wearing them afraid or risking these valuable pieces with a knock or robbery of an unreplaceable piece and the problem of service and spare parts. Of course the pro side is the charm of vintage, the historical aspects, a

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