Patek Philippe Ref. 1491 Geneva Restoration
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Patek Philippe Ref. 1491 Geneva Restoration

By Halcro · May 23, 2018 · 21 replies
Halcro
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
21 replies5829 views8 photos
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Halcro's experience with his 1952 Patek Philippe Ref. 1491 offers a compelling look into the meticulous restoration capabilities of Patek Philippe's Geneva workshops. His detailed account, prompted by a cracked crystal, reveals the brand's commitment to preserving the original integrity and aesthetic nuances of its vintage timepieces. This thread highlights the value of factory service for historical references, particularly the unexpected discovery of original finishing details on the lugs.

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A year ago I accidentally cracked the crystal face of my 1952 Ref 1491 and took it to my local Patek Service Agent in Sydney who informed me that for vintage Patek watches, they had to be sent back to Geneva for any work whatsoever......even the simple replacement of the crystal face.
Within a week of receiving the watch....Patek Geneve inspected it and provided pricing for the suggested servicing and restoration as well as the crystal replacement.
As the watch was already there and the pricing sounded reasonable....I went for it!!!

Nearly a year later it came back and I'm very pleased.....
Apart from looking virtually new again....they confirmed in writing how well maintained the watch had been kept.
What particularly impressed me was the polishing and finishing around the gold scroll lugs.....
These lugs were fully polished before being sent to Geneva, and all the examples of the Ref 1491 I had seen, have always appeared with fully polished lugs.
This is apparently not the original finish these lugs had, as Patek has carefully linished the faces of the lugs whilst polishing the edges.
It is an aesthetic detail which elevates the appearance of this case to 'artwork' IMHO.

What do you all think.....?



Restored Ref 1491 by Patek Geneve




Cracked crystal which instigated the return trip




Ref 1491 before restoration




Ref 1491 before restoration










About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 1491

The Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 1491 is notable for its distinctive scroll lugs, a design element that sets it apart from many other Calatrava models. This reference is sometimes referred to by its Italian nickname “Ricciolo,” meaning “Curl,” directly referencing the shape of its lugs. It represents a period of design experimentation within the Calatrava line, offering a more decorative aesthetic compared to the typically minimalist Calatrava cases.

This reference was produced in various precious metals, including 18k white gold and pink gold, with a case size of 34mm in diameter and a lug-to-lug measurement of 44mm. It features a manual winding movement and is typically fitted with a sapphire crystal. The power reserve for this caliber is 42 hours, and it offers a water resistance of 30 meters.

The 1491 appeals to collectors who appreciate Patek Philippe's mid-century designs and those seeking a Calatrava with a unique case profile. Its scroll lugs provide a specific visual character that distinguishes it from more common Calatrava iterations, making it a point of interest for collectors focused on design variations and historical context within the brand's output. Examples with patinated dials are particularly sought after.

Specifications

Caliber
ETA 2892-A2
Case
18k white gold
Diameter
34mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
MI
Mike H
May 23, 2018

Enjoy your beautiful timepiece and wear itbin the nest of your health

BA
baufoam
May 23, 2018

Excellent work. That is one of the big things that attracts me to Patek Philippe as a company. They service anything they ever made and they do it right. Wonderful decision you made in letting them take that watch and bring it back to what it should be. Enjoy it!

RN
rnaden
May 23, 2018

Looks like it is brand new out of the showcase and definitely worth the year of work and waiting.

PI
piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1)
May 24, 2018

This is a time only, 1 year is a very long time IMHO. I can only imagine how many watches they' are just servicing, but time is also a key factor. A great job, indeed, i agree that PP is famous for his ability to service any of his watches.

CP
Cpt Scarlet
May 24, 2018

I think a year to do the restoration is perfectly reasonable. Keep enjoying it !

HA
Halcro
May 24, 2018

but when they quoted, they were up front that I would have to wait 9 months for the work to be completed......luckily I have other ‘toys’ to occupy my time..... I think Patek have a much higher profit margin for their watchmakers to be assembling new watches than having them attending to the often risky and complex tasks of restoring old movements, cases, dials and hands. I think they do this work as a matter of principle....and for that, I think we should be grateful. I don’t know of any other

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