Patek Philippe 1868 Wristwatch: First Swiss?

quattro · 2026-04-20T14:17:19Z

Explore the 1868 Patek Philippe wristwatch, considered the first Swiss wristwatch. Discover its design, key-winding movement, and historical significance.

quattro

WPS member · Patek Philippe forum

19 replies582 views18 photos

quattro's meticulous research into the 1868 Patek Philippe wristwatch offers a fascinating glimpse into horological history, challenging common perceptions about the origins of wristwatches. His detailed presentation, enriched with personal photos from the Patek Philippe Museum and historical texts, underscores the watch's significance as potentially the first Swiss wristwatch. This article explores the design, technical specifications, and surprising anachronisms of this pivotal timepiece, revealing how it set the stage for future innovations.

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This decorative watch worn on a bangle-type bracelet, the dial of which is cleverly concealed by a cover set with a large diamond, dates from 1868.

Created nearly 30 years after the founding of Patek Philippe, Czapek & Co. in 1839, it is considered the first Patek Philippe wristwatch, and even the first Swiss wristwatch.

It is on display at the Patek Philippe Museum, Inv. P-49.

Personal photos from the Patek Philippe Museum

The crown-operated winding and time-setting mechanism had been invented by Jean Adrien Philippe more than 20 years earlier, thus eliminating the need for a key.

Below is the oldest known example of a movement incorporating Jean Adrien Philippe's invention, dating from 1842.

Personal photos from the Patek Philippe Museum & page 11 of the book by Peter Friess “Treasures from the Patek Philippe Museum - The quest for the perfect watch” (personal copy)

However, surprisingly, in 1868, the first Patek Philippe and Swiss-made wristwatch, although a historic breakthrough, still used the old key technology to wind and set the hands.

The cover is enamelled in black and set with rose-cut diamonds.

The dial is made of white enamel with upright painted Breguet numerals. The Poire hands are made of blued steel.

The baguette movement requires a key to set the time and wind the mainspring.

The 6''' movement features a cylinder escapement and 8 jewels – and a beautiful Y-shaped bridge!

Page 96 of the book by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery “Patek Philippe Genève Wristwatches (second edition 1988)” (personal copy)

The watch was acquired by the Hungarian Countess Koscowicz.

In existing records, no other wristwatches are documented before the beginning of the 20th century.

Page 15 of the book by Peter Friess “Treasures from the Patek Philippe Museum - The quest for the perfect watch” (personal copy)

From that time onward, documented wristwatches were primarily decorative timepieces for ladies only.

Page 99 of the Volume I of the Patek Philippe Museum catalog (personal copy)

The conclusion is inevitable: the history of wristwatches was initially a women's story.

It was only gradually that men became passionate about this type of watch, slowly abandoning pocket watches throughout the 1920s and 30s.

credit: watchrant (1), watchart (2), personal photo (3), Wikimedia (4) & Chronology: page 10 of “Patek Philippe Steel Watches” by John Goldberger (personal copy)

Just a very interesting page of history.

I hope you weren't bored...

Thank you for reading.

Best, Emmanuel

Key Points from the Discussion

The 1868 Patek Philippe wristwatch, despite being a 'historic breakthrough,' still utilized key-winding technology, raising questions about the adoption rate of Jean Adrien Philippe's earlier crown-winding invention and the subsequent evolution of wristwatches before the 20th century.
While the 1868 Patek Philippe was a decorative ladies' watch, men's wristwatches for military purposes began production as early as 1880, indicating a parallel, purpose-driven development for male wearers.
The initial history of wristwatches was predominantly a 'women's story,' with men only gradually embracing the format, suggesting a significant gendered evolution in watch-wearing habits.

The Discussion

quattro

Apr 20, 2026

And I would add that "Ladies First" shouldn't mean "Now leave it to men"! 😊😇🌸 Best, Emmanuel

Gregineugene

Apr 20, 2026

Were there other inventions in the intervening 38 years between the PP 27368 (1868) and Cartier's Santos-Dumont (1904)? The text (in your "Historic Breakthrough" photo above) says the 27368 "...started a trend in watchmaking." It also alludes to the Cartier Santos-Dumont by way of stating that "Wristwatches made for men would not be common for another 40 years." Who, if anyone jumped on the "trend" of wristwatch making? pic: Bob’s Watches

quattro

Apr 20, 2026

Production of men’s wristwatches for military purposes starting in 1880: https://www.collectorsweekly.com/wristwatches/girard-perregaux Best, Emmanuel

Gregineugene

Apr 20, 2026

But I'm gonna keep digging around. Thanks Emmanuel for the info. Fascinating and well researched PP history...as always!

quattro

Apr 20, 2026

It might be a part of the possible reasons… Thanks for your kind words! Emmanuel

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