quattro's meticulous research into the 1868 Patek Philippe wristwatch offers a fascinating glimpse into horological history, challenging common perceptions about the origins of wristwatches. His detailed presentation, enriched with personal photos from the Patek Philippe Museum and historical texts, underscores the watch's significance as potentially the first Swiss wristwatch. This article explores the design, technical specifications, and surprising anachronisms of this pivotal timepiece, revealing how it set the stage for future innovations.
This
decorative watch worn on a
bangle-type bracelet, the
dial of which is cleverly
concealed by a
cover set with a large
diamond, dates from
1868.
Created nearly 30 years after the founding of Patek Philippe, Czapek & Co. in 1839, it is considered the first Patek Philippe wristwatch, and even the first Swiss wristwatch.
It is on
display at the
Patek Philippe Museum, Inv. P-49.
Personal photos from the Patek Philippe MuseumThe crown-operated winding and time-setting mechanism had been invented by Jean Adrien Philippe more than 20 years earlier, thus eliminating the need for a key.
Below is the oldest known example of a movement incorporating Jean Adrien Philippe's invention, dating from 1842.
Personal photos from the Patek Philippe Museum & page 11 of the book by Peter Friess “Treasures from the Patek Philippe Museum - The quest for the perfect watch” (personal copy)
However,
surprisingly, in
1868, the
first Patek Philippe and
Swiss-made wristwatch, although a historic breakthrough,
still used the
old key technology to wind and set the hands.
The
cover is
enamelled in
black and
set with rose-cut
diamonds.
The
dial is made of
white enamel with upright painted
Breguet numerals. The Poire
hands are made of
blued steel.
The
baguette movement requires a
key to
set the time and
wind the mainspring.
The 6''' movement features a
cylinder escapement and
8 jewels – and a beautiful
Y-shaped bridge!
Page 96 of the book by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery “Patek Philippe Genève Wristwatches (second edition 1988)” (personal copy)
The watch was
acquired by the
Hungarian Countess Koscowicz.
In existing records, no other wristwatches are documented before the beginning of the 20th century.
Page 15 of the book by Peter Friess “Treasures from the Patek Philippe Museum - The quest for the perfect watch” (personal copy)From that time onward, documented wristwatches were primarily decorative timepieces for ladies only.
Page 99 of the Volume I of the Patek Philippe Museum catalog (personal copy)
The conclusion is inevitable: the history of wristwatches was initially a women's story.
It was only gradually that men became passionate about this type of watch, slowly abandoning pocket watches throughout the 1920s and 30s.
credit: watchrant (1), watchart (2), personal photo (3), Wikimedia (4) & Chronology: page 10 of “Patek Philippe Steel Watches” by John Goldberger (personal copy)
Just a very interesting page of history.
I hope you weren't bored...
Thank you for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
