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GLau's insightful post delves into the Patek Philippe 1938P, a timepiece created to honor Philippe Stern's 85th birthday. GLau specifically explores the controversial dial featuring a portrait, drawing parallels to historical Patek Philippe commissions for King Saud. This article synthesizes community perspectives on the 1938P's design, its unique movement, and its place in Patek Philippe's legacy.
IMO 1938P is a marvellous watch in terms of innovation, interesting complications of MR and an alarm, and meaningfulness of son honoring his father's accomplishments ! For this important milestone of Mr. Philippe Stern’s 85th Birthday, I think Thierry creatively used Patek's/his father’s slogan of "...merely looking after it for the next generation" and transformed it to "honor the previous generation". Mr. Phillip Stern's contributions to horology had been significant which we all can agree on, and personally I find it touching that Thierry pays tribute to his father with this new movement which will not be used again. Although as a business person I do not fully understand why this movement will not be utilized in the future, but as a son I can fully appreciate Thierry's reasons behind making it a one-time creation.
Many members felt that they preferred the dial not to have a portrait, and I read through and understood their reasons. As I thought more on the topic of watches with pictures of persons, I spoke to Patek collectors and performed some research on precedents. Back in the 50s, when King Saud ascended to the throne, 150 (according to Christie’s) to 250 (according to Sotheby’s) pieces were commissioned with each dial having a life-like picture of King Saud. Are you aware of others that are not unique pieces ? If so, please share.
By celebrating the horological legacy of his father with a new timepiece, Thierry is doing something unprecedented since the Stern family took control of Patek, and hence I think this overall situation is a key reason why Mr. Stern’s portrait is on the dial. Over the years, Mr. Stern has risen to become THE mainstay of horology, especially on how he helped turn the mechanical watch industry around in the face of the onslaught of quartz movements. For me, this limited run of 30 pieces is a special commission by Thierry for his father, similar to the above commemorative event.
Instead of a commercial launch, the limited run of 30 pieces (both in terms of the dial and movement) demonstrates this watch is a homage to Mr. Stern for his horological contribution to the industry and his paternal caretaking of Patek for the next generation.
The allocated pieces will no doubt be to tremendously important and loyal Patek collectors who have long personal relationship with and within the Stern family. No matter what, 1938P is an intriguing piece to me. I respect Thierry’s decision because he went with his heart without financial considerations and he is proud to have his father’s presence on the dial. Furthermore, the enamel work to me is done in a subtle way with silhouette.
This post is my personal take of this situation, and I would love to hear your thoughts.
The Patek Philippe Reference 1938 is a notable example of the brand's early rectangular timepieces, distinguished by its Art Deco design influences. While not as widely recognized as some later models, it represents a period of design exploration for Patek Philippe, particularly in non-circular case forms. Its aesthetic draws inspiration from earlier references such as the 514, 524, and 520, establishing a lineage of design principles that would evolve in subsequent collections. This reference is a testament to the brand's commitment to both horological precision and artistic expression during the interwar period.
This particular reference features a 30mm case crafted from a combination of platinum and rose gold, a sophisticated material pairing that enhances its visual appeal. It houses a manual-wind movement, specifically the 10''' lever escapement caliber, which was a common and reliable mechanism for its era. The dial is characterized by its three-color scheme, adding to the watch's distinctive Art Deco character. The fixed bezel integrates seamlessly with the case design, maintaining the watch's streamlined profile.
For collectors, the Reference 1938 offers insight into Patek Philippe's design trajectory in the early 20th century. Its unique case material combination and three-color dial make it a distinctive piece for those interested in the brand's historical design language. While it predates the more complex complications seen in later Patek Philippe watches, its aesthetic and mechanical integrity appeal to collectors focused on vintage design and the foundational elements of the brand's heritage.
Within a decade it will be Arnault 😁
I don't want to take anything away from the watchmaking involved, but that dial is not a fitting tribute in my opinion.
Thierry created 30 pieces... one piece with his father's face on the dial which was kept for himself (or Patek Museum) as a loving tribute to his Dad. 29 pieces with an exceptional dial without Mr. Stern's face for collectors. This would completely change my sentiment about this watch - which presently I simply cannot take seriously - and consider this an ultimate tribute to his Father and opportunity for the collector.
Thierry’s decision to honor his Dad in this manner and contrary to sound financial considerations to never place this movement in any future watch. That said I think it could be done in a different way - a way that would make the tribute even more special while adding over time to the company’s bottom line. Also, it would allow current and future collectors to own a watch combining a minute repeater and alarm. I can think of 2 possible options, both of which do not limit further use of the movem
And no disrespect towards his life’s work, but he‘s not a king, so the comparision you‘re making does not work for me.
The dial I feel is made appropriately for such an occasion. It has all the hallmarks of the past and plays into how important Henri was to Patek and the future. Glad this was made with a silhouette of Henri and not marked with the years…I’m sure everyone remembers the Nautilus 40th anniversary watch with the years on the dial??
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