Patek Philippe 3417: The Patek Tool Watch

Baron - Mr Red delves into the concept of a "tool watch" within Patek Philippe's esteemed history, a departure from the brand's typical association with high complications and dress watches. His exploration focuses on the Patek Philippe Reference 3417, positioning it as the brand's definitive scientist's tool watch. This article offers a unique perspective on Patek Philippe, challenging conventional perceptions and highlighting a lesser-known facet of its heritage.

To be honest, I am not 100% sure what initially attracted me to collecting vintage Rolex. One could certainly put its iconic look in the frame, but also perhaps most importantly its very rich history. That history is intimately intertwined with discovery and exploring....with adventure. The Explorer 1, the GMT, the Sea-Dweller, the Milgauss and of course Daytona….all of these watches have quite remarkable historical links that make the collection of Rolex (be it vintage or modern) inextricably linked to such historical origins.  Rolex most certainly is one of the most successful watch-making companies in the world...

Similarly, Patek Philippe is widely recognised as being the finest watchmaker in the world, yet it has reached this accolade in an entirely different way to Rolex. Patek is recognised for the extraordinary finesse of its movements, its finishing, its accuracy and panache. The adventurer wears a Rolex, whereas the CEO wears a Patek. To be honest, I think generalisations are usually full of holes, and I suspect the one I have made is similarly flawed, yet there is something so intrinsically different between these two giants of the watch-making world that making comparisons seems pointless. Compare a hand-made Aston Martin DB5 with a mass-produced Porsche 993…..totally different animals. Yet, in their own way they are respective kings of what they do. 

So, what has all this got to do with Patek? Well, as a lover of vintage Rolex and as someone drawn towards tool watches, it is no big surprise that I count Sea-Dwellers, Milgauss and GMT in my Rolex collection. I also own one or two modern Patek, but what I miss is a Patek tool watch. Something that has that Patek finesse, movement, style and finishing yet at the same time is designed as a tool watch. Such a watch isn’t available within the confines of the modern offerings. Indeed, to find the Patek “tool watch” one would need to look for the 12 400 AM or 27 AM 400 movement. The former was produced between 1950-61 and was used in a number of references. The latter movement was typically used between 1960-70 ands had the added advantage of the Gyromax balance. This movement was similarly used across a number of references. The only reference, however, that was exclusively made in steel, and subsequently the one most people view as the true scientist’s “tool watch” is the reference 3417. The 3417 is the Patek Philippe tool watch.

Patek themselves are experts in all their watches, yet if there was someone on this planet that knew as much about the 3417 as Patek themselves, it would be mstanga. Mstanga even wrote a book about the 3417. I am giving the details of this book as it is not a commercial venture and I know that the author has distributed books to those who are passionate at some cost to himself. When someone as passionate as Marco shares their love and knowledge as freely as they do, we can be thankful as a community and appreciate it. To see a truly detailed view of the 3417, its history and its meaning, please take a look at Marco’s work…it is superb research.

patek.watchprosite.com

The watch is one that my good friend Nicolas mentioned to me about 3 years ago. I said earlier this year that i was not looking to buy one. My reasoning at that time was that i knew Nicolas was hunting for one and that it was not good form to jump in and grab. That would have been the English gentleman in me saying that. Then i remembered that I am also a hedge fund manager…shoot first, ask questions later….who am i kidding….I NEED one. As I subsequently said to Nicolas and Blomman…."guys I love you, but I love me more!" Indeed, given that one never owns a Patek but just keeps it for the next generation, I can legitimately say this one is to add to my son’s IWC 666!! 

Well, what I mean is i “needed” one. With a little help from Mstanga, I identified and verified and grabbed one!! I have bought 2 or 3 vintage Patek watches this year. I find the 1960s Calatravas simply superb in so many ways. What i say now i say after a great deal of consideration, but I consider the 1950s and 1960s Calatravas to be amongst the most under-appreciated watches around. Very much NOT mass-produced….exquisite movements……stunning finishing…. vintage Patek is less expensive than many modern watches! Nicolas identified the vintage Blancpain Fifty Fathoms as a woefully under-appreciated watch. Once collectors took a look and investigated, the watch became more widely viewed for the marvel that it is. I think many vintage Pateks fall into the same category. Over the course of the year, I will certainly aim to highlight watches that I consider to be in this category, and I will start most definitely with the 3417. 

At 35mm, given the nature of the case, it wears large. It certainly feels a good size on the wrist. It also carries that Bauhaus style of simplicity, which I have to say I find extremely appealing. The angled wings of the lugs also carry that Bauhaus feel. Unlike most of the amagnetic watches from other manufacturers, the 3417 sits relatively flat on the wrist. It doesn’t have that extra bulk. In this sense, the watch really does carry that Patek under-stated appeal. It is a tool watch without the show. It does its job without bluster or noise. Rather, it carries its class in its superb 27AM 400 movement. The movement has often been described as one of the very best manual wind movements ever produced by Patek. In this sense, the watch differentiates itself from other magnetic offerings such as the IWC 666 or even the Milgauss 1019….the Patek movement is in a different game. It is worth remembering that Patek differentiated itself from other manufacturers courtesy of the quality of its movements, its finishing and attention to detail. It is in this framework that the 3417 tool watch distinguishes itself as such an iconic watch.

Would it be too much to hope that the 175th anniversary pays some tribute to its past with another amagnetic offering? That would be truly something.

What do I love about this watch?

For a start, its pure aesthetic on the wrist. The narrowness of the case allows a 35mm watch to wear like it is 37-38mm.