Patek Philippe Ref. 3858 Vintage Watch Overview
Vintage

Patek Philippe Ref. 3858 Vintage Watch Overview

By quattro · May 3, 2025 · 11 replies
quattro
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
11 replies1845 views22 photos
f 𝕏 in πŸ’¬ βœ‰ πŸ”—

Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, presents a compelling re-evaluation of the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 3858. His detailed photographic essay highlights a rare two-tone dial variant, prompting collectors to reconsider this often-overlooked reference. This article delves into the nuances that make this particular Ellipse model a fascinating subject for both vintage enthusiasts and Patek Philippe connoisseurs.

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I thought I didn't like this Golden Ellipse ref. 3858 powered by cal. 215, which I found odd.

But then I discovered this variant with a two-tone dial and I'm not sure anymore: I'm starting to like it...

I'll let you judge if the charm works for you.

You can even compare below with a regular Ellipse ref. 3748.

Best, Emmanuel


1/ Ref. 3858/1G (white gold case and bracelet, two-tone dial)

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse^^

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858


2/ Ref. 3858/1J (yellow gold case and bracelet, two-tone dial) NB: this yellow gold variant (with a slightly different bracelet) was mentioned here 16 years ago by mpreddert.

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858
credit for all photos above: rarebirds.de


3/ Ref. 3858J (regular yellow gold variant with blue dial & leather strap)

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858
credit: bulang & sons


4/ Ref. 3748J with similar two-tone dial as ref. 3858/1G and J

The Certificate of Origin describes the dial as β€˜bleu, zones sans index’ (blue, areas without index), the original receipt from 1979 describes the dial as β€˜cadran bleu clair, bleu foncé’ (light blue, dark blue dial) and the Extract from the Archives states β€˜two-tone blue dial’ (cf. below).

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858
Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858credit: collectability & christie's (extract)


5/ Cartier Ceinture with a two-tone onyx-turquoise dial : I'm adding this one just as a side note, to show that this sinuous way of dividing the dial has been used by other brands

Watch by Patek Philippe, golden ellipse, 3858
credit: @crazykirbyh 

About the Patek Philippe Ref. 3748

The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse reference 3748 is a classic example of the model's original design principles, offering a more traditional aesthetic compared to later variants. It represents the foundational expression of the Golden Ellipse, characterized by its distinctive elliptical case shape and focus on understated design. This reference typically features a clean dial, emphasizing legibility and the unique proportions of the case.

This reference is powered by a mechanical movement, often the self-winding caliber 28-255 C, known for its slim profile. The case material for the 3748 is typically yellow gold, contributing to its classic appeal. The watch features a solid case back and is fitted with a sapphire crystal, providing durability and clarity for the dial. The dimensions are consistent with the Golden Ellipse's design philosophy, prioritizing wearability and a refined presence on the wrist.

For collectors, the reference 3748 holds significance as an early and pure representation of the Golden Ellipse. It appeals to those who appreciate the model's original design intent and its historical position within the brand's catalog. While later references introduced more elaborate dials or bracelet integrations, the 3748 remains a benchmark for the model's enduring design.

Specifications

Caliber
28-255 C
Case
Yellow Gold
Diameter
33 x 28 mm
Dial
Blue
Water Resist.
25m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
KM
KMII
May 3, 2025

And have to say that the single color dial version you posted as comparison appeals to me more. But love the elegant, thin case πŸ™ŒπŸ»πŸ‘ŒπŸ»

QU
quattro
May 3, 2025

both the dial and the case… I started disliking them, but then found the double oddity (case and dial design) quite charming with its 70s quirky vibe…

GL
GLau
May 3, 2025

in the metal before I can pass judgement, especially given the difference (as shown in the photo) is not stark. The one from Cartier I like because of the BIG contrast. The shaped case of 3858 to me should be nicknamed "manta-ellipse" ! πŸ˜ƒ

AU
AuHavrePro
May 3, 2025

I don't recall seeing it before, thanks for the introduction . Cheers, Filip

AR
ArmisT
May 3, 2025

and this post did nothing to diminish that πŸ’ͺπŸ½πŸ‘πŸ½πŸ‘πŸ½πŸ‘πŸ½

QU
quattro
May 4, 2025

The chances to see such a two-tone dial are very small, but I agree with you that a hands on experience would be needed. Enjoy your Sunday. Best, Emmanuel

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