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In the rarefied world of Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronographs, the choice between the Ref. 3970p and Ref. 5970p is a perennial debate among collectors. Anaroku’s insightful post, inspired by a previous discussion, delves into the nuanced aesthetic differences and historical significance of these platinum references, offering a personal perspective on their respective merits.
The Patek Philippe reference 3970 is a perpetual calendar chronograph, a complication central to the brand's heritage. It succeeded the highly regarded reference 2499 and served as a bridge to the later reference 5970. The 3970 was produced over an extended period, allowing for several series and subtle variations in its design, making it a significant model for collectors interested in the evolution of Patek Philippe's complicated wristwatches.
This reference features a 36mm case, commonly found in 18k white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum. It is powered by the manual-wind caliber CH 27-70 Q, based on a Lemania Ă©bauche, which offers a power reserve of 60 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a dial that typically includes subdials for the chronograph, perpetual calendar displays, and moon phases.
The 3970 appeals to collectors seeking a classic Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph with a traditional aesthetic and a historically important movement. Its long production run from 1986 to 2004 means that examples from different series, such as the first, second, and third, exhibit minor differences in dial layout and case details, providing distinct collecting opportunities within the reference.
and I have deep appreciation for classical watch making. 10 years back, I may have been attracted to a perpetual calendar or a perpetual chrono, but alas I don’t consider these high complications any more and I personally am interested in innovation more than movement polishing by elves, with no disrespect to those who desire the highest level of finishing. But that’s just my opinion and I have found a haven amongst independents for what tickles my interests. I still like my PPs, VCs etc., so th
What was made by a few companies years ago are made by many now. It reminds me of the U.S. Olympic basketball team which dominated the world years ago, and then the rest of the world caught up. Yes, they win gold, but the competition is much fiercer.
I may have been attracted to a perpetual calendar or perpetual chrono from a high horology brand in the past but not any more. These are unfortunately more mundane complications today (especially the perpetual calendar) and I applaud brands that have pulled off these complications at a price point that would have been astonishing 10 years ago. I recall an interview with Thierry Stern where he was bemoaning the devaluation of “high complications” by value Swiss brands. I found that to be a tacit
sings most to me because it has the “pump” pushers and looks very powerful 💪!!
Innovations I’m attracted to: - Resonance/2x balancier - Novel escapements (e.g, double detent, constant force) - Ground-up openwork architecture - etc.
dear anaroku. Like you, your 3970P second version is my favorite here. And I would even say “by far” because the silver dial (and the leaf hands and rectangular indexes) makes it much more appealing to me than the black one. More “natural” and “friendly”, more understated and classic. There’s a severity and a desire to impress about the black dial which appeals to me far less. Just my personal taste of course. Best, Emmanuel
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