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Small-luxury-world initiates a compelling discussion on the Patek Philippe Ref. 5139, questioning its popularity despite its classical design and revered Caliber 240 Q movement. The post invites readers to consider the nuances of this perpetual calendar, from its hobnail bezel to its aesthetic appeal for discerning collectors.
but (I guess) it is not the most popular in the current collection.
Why? Well, let´s have a look.
Is it because of the movement?
- Ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement
- Caliber 240 Q
- 22K gold off-center mini-rotor
- Perpetual calendar : day, date, month, leap year by hands
- Moon phases and am/pm indication
- Diameter: 27.5 mm
- Height: 3.88 mm
- Jewels: 27
- Bridges: 8
- Parts: 275
- Balance: Gyromax
- Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
- Power reserve: 48 h max.
- Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
No, for sure not. It is one of the most popular, well known and respected movements for quite some time.
The 5139 is the successor of the 5039 and was introduced in 2008, like this:
Ref. 5139G in 38mm with a "silver" dial. To me it is a real classical Patek Philippe as it shows typical details like the "Clous de Paris" bezel.
The size is not too big and not too small. Would love to get one as a heirloom, but probably wouldn´t buy it for myself.
In 2011 Patek Philippe introduced another version in white gold, but this time with a black dial.
To me it is a watch not for everyone, but I could imagine it on a gentleman´s wrist who is "crazy" about details and style.
Maybe an architect, artist ...
(Caine)
(Van der Rohe)
(unknown, to me)... just someone who is more interested in his own preferences - instead of what otheres are thinking.
Dressed with a smoking/dinner jacket ... on the way to the opera ... late night dinner in a nice restaurant afterwards ... 
In general I don´t like "complications" with smoking or at black tie events, but this one could do the job - at least for me.
Recently I had the pleasure to try it once more ...
It is elegant and slim ...
... the profile is something to adore ...
... and the "Clous de Paris" works very well in that case. Maybe slightly "old fashioned" in some cases, but not in this case.
The white metal and black dial does the trick for me.
The movement is simply beautiful - nothing more, nothing less.
In general I prefer matt finished straps, but in this case I would make an exception.
The silver moon looks very special and beautiful on the black dial ...
... and even the black dial looks not only black. It all depends on the light and the reflections. Sometimes it looks like deep lacquer.
It is quite a challenge to shoot, but a pleasure to look at.
It fits and feels perfect on my wrist ...
... and if I would be in the market for a perpetual calendar I would consider it, for sure.
What do you think? Is there a good reason not to like it, from your point of view?
Oliver
About the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5039
The Patek Philippe Reference 5039 represents the Perpetual Calendar Split-Seconds Chronograph within the Annual Calendar Retrograde Date series. This reference combines perpetual calendar complications with split-seconds chronograph functionality in a manually-wound configuration.
The 5039 features a 36mm case available in 18k yellow gold, white gold, or rose gold with a smooth bezel and sapphire crystal. The watch is powered by the manual-winding Caliber R TO 27 PS, providing 48 hours of power reserve. Water resistance is rated to 25 meters, and the watch is fitted with a leather strap secured by a fold-over clasp.
Produced from 1999 to 2010, the Reference 5039 appeals to collectors seeking complicated Patek Philippe timepieces with both calendar and chronograph functions. The 36mm case size and precious metal construction reflect the reference's positioning within Patek Philippe's haute horlogerie offerings during this production period.
Specifications
- Caliber
- R TO 27 PS
- Case
- 18k Yellow Gold, White Gold, or Rose Gold
- Diameter
- 36 mm
- Water Resist.
- 25m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Grand Complications Ref. 5139
The Patek Philippe Grand Complications reference 5139 is a perpetual calendar wristwatch that succeeded the reference 3940. It is characterized by its ultra-thin profile and the integration of a perpetual calendar complication within a classic Patek Philippe design language. This reference maintains the brand's tradition of producing highly complicated timepieces with a focus on legibility and refined aesthetics, positioning it as a significant offering within the Grand Complications collection.
The watch features a case typically crafted from precious metals, housing the self-winding caliber 240 Q. This movement is known for its micro-rotor construction, contributing to the watch's slim profile, and provides a power reserve suitable for daily wear. The crystal protecting the dial is sapphire, ensuring durability and clarity for the display of time and calendar indications.
For collectors, the 5139 represents a continuation of Patek Philippe's perpetual calendar lineage, appealing to those who appreciate traditional watchmaking and high complications in a discreet package. Its design, with a focus on thinness and a well-proportioned dial layout, makes it a notable reference for enthusiasts of classic complicated wristwatches. The model was available in various precious metal configurations.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 240 Q
- Case
- Platinum
- Diameter
- 38 mm
- Dial
- White
- Water Resist.
- 30 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
Key Points from the Discussion
- The Patek Philippe 5139's design, with its Bauhaus markers, 1920s-style hands, and Clous de Paris bezel, offers a unique blend of historical influences and perfect dimensions.
- While the 5140 is understated, the 5139G, especially with a black dial, is considered a striking and more interesting alternative for a perpetual calendar, making it a special addition to a collection.
- Some collectors find the Clous de Paris bezel unsuitable for a complicated watch, preferring it on a simpler three-hand model, and also express a preference for movements not already present in their collection.
- The hobnail bezel, while classic, is a divisive design element and is perceived by some as a 'scratch magnet' due to its textured surface.
- The 5139 is seen as a watch for individuals with a strong personal style, such as architects or artists, who prioritize their own preferences over popular opinion.
- The Caliber 240 Q is an ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement with a 22K gold off-center mini-rotor, perpetual calendar functions, moon phases, and AM/PM indication.
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