The new reference 5395 is definitely a unique piece from Patek. Being a regulator dial certainly separates it from the rest of the Patek range. I , like most people waited for nearly 3 years to get my watch since it was launched in 2011. The excitement was elevated when the patek magazine featured t
The new reference 5395 is definitely a unique piece from Patek. Being a regulator dial certainly separates it from the rest of the Patek range.
I , like most people waited for nearly 3 years to get my watch since it was launched in 2011. The excitement was elevated when the patek magazine featured this watch with a 6 page spread extolling the virtues and highlighting all the technical innovations used in bringing this watch to the marketplace. Spiromax, silvinar and oscillomax were all incorporated into the 5235 giving it more accuracy, a longer power reserve and finally a Patek that hacked ( other than the uber model 5959).
So now that I have worn this super watch ( in all senses of the word ) does the hype live up the reality?
The one question I still cannot answer is , if the name Patek Philippe was not on the dial would I still have bought it.? Probably not but I definitely would have been attracted to this watch. Being a regulator is a certainly a difference that attracts a lot of collectors , it harps back to the old regulator style long clocks and the accuracy that it brings it definitely a plus.
But this watch is so very different from any other watch in my collection. I collect vintage pieces ref 2526' 1593 , 2442, as well as vintage rolex princes and sports watches , so what am I doing with this watch which stands out like the proverbial dog,s balls in my collection.
At the outset let me say I am absolutely smitten with this new piece. It is large 40 mm diameter but not too thick (10mm). Remember it houses an automatic movement with a 5 day reserve as well as the annual calendar. I am certainly not going to go over all the technical details. These can be obtained from the web with a couple of clicks. This is a users report.
As mentioned it is a large piece compared to anything else I have worn but it does not wear large. The very simple white gold case with straight lugs sits very easily on the wrist. The low crown poses no problem in terms of comfort and does not irritate my wrist.
The brushed sides of the case make it look suite inconspicuous giving it a stainless steel look rather than a brilliant white gold or platinum look. It does have a polished bezel surrounding the dial which offsets the two tone dial brilliantly.
The dial is a design worthy of any Bauhaus designer ( as is the case). Simple effective with enameled letters to the right side of the dial making it slightly unbalanced but in a way that works. The design and position of the windows can be debated but Patek has a winner here. Yes the dial divides collectors ( I agree with previous commentators that this is a watch that will appeal primarily to collectors ) the brushed dial and the enameled letters seem to change color depending on light and position.
The simple baton hands fit in well with the overall design
As regards the primary feature of the watch, telling the time ( although some collectors will tell you this is of secondary importance these days) is actually very easy. It does take a few days to orientate yourself when looking at the face but the large minute hand is obviously easy to see and the small hour hand rotates around the subdial with large enough numbers so that finding the hour is simple. Day, date and month are clear and easy to read.
Small unobtrusive buttons on the left hand side of the case are very easy to set with the tool provided.
One of the advantages of all the technical advances is the 60 hour power reserve. This is a really useful feature if you do not have an automatic winding box or are too lazy to use it. You are not beholden to wear your new watch every day ( although I am guessing you will) and can put it down for a day or two quite safely with out going through the rigmarole of resetting the day, date and month etc again.
One minor positive that this watch brings is the lovely blue alligator strap which co- orientates very well with the blue in the dial. Another lovely touch.
Oh yes, if you get bored with the dial you can turn it over and look the movement through the back crystal. The new 31- 260 movement is a marvel to look at with Patek's usual high standard of finishing on view.
In summary patek have a winner . Something brand new, innovative and appealing.
This message has been edited by small-luxury-world on 2014-01-15 02:12:00
About the Patek Philippe 2526 Ref. 2526
The Patek Philippe Reference 2526 is notable as the brand's first serially produced automatic wristwatch. Introduced in 1953, it marked a significant technical advancement for Patek Philippe, housing a self-winding movement at a time when manual-wind mechanisms were still prevalent. This reference is recognized for its clean aesthetic and robust construction, establishing a foundation for future automatic timepieces from the manufacture.
The watch features a 35 mm case, available in 18k yellow gold, 18k rose gold, or platinum. It is powered by the caliber 12-600 AT, an automatic movement with a Gyromax balance and a solid gold rotor, offering a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The crystal is acrylic, protecting a silver dial that often features enamel. The case design is characterized by its smooth bezel and often includes a screw-down case back, contributing to its water resistance.
For collectors, the Reference 2526 is highly sought after due to its historical significance as Patek Philippe's inaugural automatic model. Variants exist with different dial configurations, including those with applied indexes and small seconds, which can vary between the gold and platinum versions. The presence of original bracelets, particularly on rose gold models, can also add to its collectibility, as these were less common than leather strap configurations.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 12-600 AT
- Case
- 18k Yellow Gold, 18k Rose Gold, or Platinum
- Diameter
- 35 mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator Ref. 5235
The Patek Philippe reference 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator introduced a distinctive display format to the brand's annual calendar complication. This model features a regulator-style dial, separating the hours, minutes, and seconds into distinct subdials. The central hand indicates minutes, while the hours are displayed in a subdial at 12 o'clock and the running seconds in a subdial at 6 o'clock. This layout provides a clear, uncluttered presentation of time and calendar information, distinguishing it from other annual calendar offerings.
The watch is housed in an 18k white gold case measuring 40.5 mm in diameter and 10 mm in thickness. It is powered by the self-winding caliber 31-260 REG QA, a movement specifically developed for this regulator display. This movement provides a power reserve ranging from 38 to 48 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal on both the front and an exhibition case back, offering a view of the movement. It is water resistant to 30 meters.
First appearing in 2011, the 5235 appeals to collectors seeking a Patek Philippe annual calendar with a unique aesthetic. The regulator display, while historically rooted, offers a contemporary interpretation within the brand's complicated watch lineup. Its production run has seen it offered primarily in this white gold configuration, making it a consistent and recognizable piece for those who appreciate its specific technical and design characteristics.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 31-260 REG QA
- Case
- 18k White Gold
- Diameter
- 40.5 mm
- Dial
- Opaline silvery
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 2442
The Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 2442, introduced in 1948, is a notable example of a shaped watch within the Calatrava line, distinguished by its elongated, curved case design. This reference is known by several collector nicknames such as “Banana” and “Mimitabu,” reflecting its distinctive form. Its production numbers are estimated to be limited, contributing to its rarity and appeal among collectors of vintage Patek Philippe timepieces.
This particular reference was produced in rose gold, with case dimensions of 27 x 42.5 mm. The watch typically features a manual-wind movement, consistent with Patek Philippe's manufacturing practices for dress watches of this era. The crystal would have been a period-appropriate material, likely acrylic, protecting a dial that often developed appealing patinas over time.
Reference 2442 holds a significant place for collectors interested in Patek Philippe's mid-century design evolution and the brand's exploration of non-circular case forms. Its scarcity and unique aesthetic make it a sought-after piece, particularly examples with well-preserved dials and cases. It represents a specific design language from a pivotal period in the brand's history.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 9'''90
- Case
- 18k rose gold
- Diameter
- 27 x 42.5 mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 1593
The Patek Philippe reference 1593, introduced in 1944, is notable for its distinctive "Hour Glass" case shape. This design features a gentle curvature along the sides that tapers inwardly towards the center, creating a silhouette reminiscent of an hourglass. This unique case profile sets it apart from more conventional rectangular or tonneau-shaped watches of its era, making it a recognizable piece within Patek Philippe's historical catalog.
The watch is housed in a yellow gold case, measuring 23x37 mm. It is powered by the manual-winding caliber 9''', a movement known for its reliability and precision. The crystal is typically acrylic, with some examples featuring a faceted crystal at the narrowest part of the case, while others have a curved crystal. The fixed bezel frames a silver dial.
For collectors, the reference 1593 represents a distinctive design chapter in Patek Philippe's mid-20th century production. Its unusual case shape and the variations in crystal and case side profiles offer points of interest for enthusiasts. The reference appeals to those seeking a Patek Philippe with a strong aesthetic identity and a departure from standard case forms.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 9'''
- Case
- Yellow Gold
- Diameter
- 23x37
- Dial
- Silver
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Patek Philippe Grand Complications Ref. 5959
The Patek Philippe Grand Complications reference 5959 is a split-seconds monopusher chronograph, a highly refined complication within the brand's extensive catalog. It stands out for its focus on a singular, technically demanding chronograph function, presented in a compact and classic form factor. This reference represents a commitment to traditional haute horlogerie, emphasizing mechanical complexity and artisanal finishing over additional grand complications.
This timepiece features a platinum case, measuring 33 mm in diameter, which contributes to its understated presence on the wrist. It houses the manually wound caliber CHR 27-525 PS, a movement celebrated for its thinness and intricate construction, including a column wheel and horizontal clutch. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, allowing for a clear view of the dial and, through the exhibition case back, the meticulously finished movement.
For collectors, the 5959 appeals to those who appreciate the purity of a high-end chronograph without additional functions. Its limited production and the technical sophistication of its split-seconds monopusher mechanism make it a significant piece for enthusiasts of Patek Philippe's most complex offerings. The reference is known for its classic aesthetic, often paired with a black or white enamel dial, reinforcing its traditional appeal.
Specifications
- Caliber
- CHR 27-525 PS
- Case
- Platinum
- Diameter
- 33 mm
- Dial
- Black or White enamel
- Water Resist.
- 30 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
