Patrickh offers a live presentation of Patek Philippe's 2016 Annual and Perpetual Calendar novelties from the Geneva Salon, providing collectors with firsthand wristshots and initial impressions. This article serves as a crucial resource for understanding the aesthetic and design updates to these significant complications, offering direct insights into how these new references are perceived in person.
Dear Purists,
I had the pleasure to see and to put on wrist some 2016 novelties.
Many thanks for the warm welcome from the Patek Geneva Salon teams.
Start with annual calendars
Tribute to the 20th Anniversary of Patek Philippe's patented Annual calendar
5396G-014: I like Breguet numbers and the discreet and elegant grey dial
5396R-012: The red gold color gives a warmer look.
5327G-001: I like the blue dial and the readability is excellent in this modern combination.
The work on the lugs is just beautiful
5327J: This combination is more classic and really nice. Even the readability is very good. I find it was not the case of the RG version where contrasts are less interesting and the watch looks more "bling", IMHO.
5496P-015: What a wonderful work done with all these dial inserts. Not a watch for everyone but a real beauty.
and finally the 5270G-019 with its blue dial: an iconic model. The white dial is very challenging and possibly more timeless.
I hope you enjoy this live presentation.
To be followed soon by the WT live photos.
Thanks for your comments.
Cheers,
Patrickh
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5496
The Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 5496 distinguishes itself within the Calatrava line by incorporating a retrograde perpetual calendar complication. This reference combines the classic aesthetic of the Calatrava with a sophisticated horological function, presenting the date on a retrograde scale that sweeps back to the beginning of the month. It represents a more complex offering compared to time-only Calatrava models, appealing to collectors who appreciate both traditional design and mechanical ingenuity.
This timepiece features a 39.5mm platinum case, housing the self-winding Caliber 324 S QR movement. The movement provides a power reserve of 48 hours and is visible through a sapphire crystal case back, with an interchangeable solid platinum back also provided. The dial is champagne in color, complemented by rose gold applied numeral date markers and other applied gold markers, all protected by a sapphire crystal.
For collectors, the 5496 offers a blend of Patek Philippe's enduring design language and its expertise in grand complications. Its retrograde perpetual calendar function, combined with the precious metal case, positions it as a significant piece for those seeking a technically advanced yet understated watch. The inclusion of two case backs and a platinum deployant clasp further enhances its appeal.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.324 S QR
- Case
- Platinum
- Diameter
- 39.5mm
- Dial
- champagne
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5396
Patek Philippe Reference 5396
The Reference 5396 represents Patek Philippe's annual calendar offering within the Annual Calendar with Moon Phase series. This 38.5mm reference provides the annual calendar complication combined with moon phase indication, positioning it as a complex calendar watch that requires manual correction only once per year in February.
The watch features an 18k white gold case measuring 38.5mm in diameter with a smooth bezel and sapphire crystal. The automatic Caliber 324 S IRM QA LU provides 45 hours of power reserve. Water resistance is rated to 30 meters, and the watch is fitted with a leather strap.
In production since 2006, the Reference 5396 appeals to collectors seeking Patek Philippe's annual calendar complication in white gold. The 38.5mm case size offers contemporary wearability while the moon phase adds visual interest to the calendar display. This reference serves collectors prioritizing complicated timepieces with practical daily calendar functions.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 324 S IRM QA LU
- Case
- 18k White Gold
- Diameter
- 38.5 mm
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270
The Patek Philippe Grand Complications reference 5270 is a perpetual calendar chronograph, succeeding the highly regarded reference 5970. It represents a significant evolution in Patek Philippe's grand complications lineup, being the first perpetual calendar chronograph to feature an in-house developed movement. This transition from a modified Nouvelle Lemania base caliber to a fully integrated Patek Philippe movement marks a notable advancement in the brand's technical independence and horological prowess. The 5270 maintains the classic aesthetic of its predecessors while introducing subtle design refinements.
The reference 5270 is housed in a 41 mm case, available in 18k white gold, rose gold, or yellow gold. The case design is characterized by a concave bezel and two-tier lugs, contributing to its distinctive profile. It is powered by the manual-winding caliber CH 29-535 PS Q, an integrated chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar mechanism. This movement offers a power reserve of approximately 55 hours and is protected by a sapphire crystal, ensuring water resistance up to 30 meters.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a modern interpretation of a classic grand complication from Patek Philippe. Its in-house movement and refined case details distinguish it within the brand's offerings. Multiple dial variants have been produced, including silver, blue, and opaline, providing collectors with a range of aesthetic choices. The 5270 continues the tradition of Patek Philippe's perpetual calendar chronographs, offering a blend of technical sophistication and traditional design.
Specifications
- Caliber
- CH 29-535 PS Q
- Case
- 18k White Gold, Rose Gold, or Yellow Gold
- Diameter
- 41 mm
- Dial
- Multiple variants available
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Breguet Classique Ref. 5327
The Breguet Classique reference 5327 represents the Date Moonphase series within the model range, distinguished by its combination of calendar and lunar phase complications. This reference positions itself as a dress watch offering within the Classique lineup, incorporating both practical and astronomical display functions.
The watch features a 39mm case constructed from 18k white gold, fitted with a sapphire crystal and fixed bezel configuration. The silver dial houses the date and moonphase displays, while an automatic movement provides the mechanical foundation. Water resistance extends to 30 meters, suitable for daily wear scenarios.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a complications-focused dress watch in precious metal construction. The 39mm case size accommodates contemporary sizing preferences while maintaining formal proportions. The white gold case material and silver dial combination creates a monochromatic aesthetic that suits both the Date Moonphase series identity and broader Classique collection positioning.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 591DRL
- Case
- 18k White Gold
- Diameter
- 39 mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire