Reference Guide
Patekova's candid exploration of the Patek Philippe Ref. 5496P, a grand complication retrograde perpetual calendar, offers a rare look into a watch that, despite its horological merits, remains a mystery in terms of collector appeal. This article delves into why Patekova champions this reference and synthesizes community insights to understand its polarizing reception, making a decade-old discussion relevant to new enthusiasts.
The Patek Philippe reference 5020 is a perpetual calendar chronograph, a complication central to the brand's heritage. Introduced in 1994/95, it emerged during the production run of the reference 3970. The 5020 is notable for its distinctive cushion-shaped case, which presented a departure from the more traditional round cases typically associated with Patek Philippe's perpetual calendar chronographs. This unique case design contributed to its limited production and distinct market position.
This reference houses a manual-winding movement, characteristic of Patek Philippe's complicated timepieces of the era. The case, often referred to as "TV-style" due to its shape, was produced in various precious metals. The integration of the perpetual calendar with a chronograph function requires a sophisticated movement, known for its intricate construction and precise finishing. The crystal protecting the dial is typically sapphire, ensuring clarity and scratch resistance.
The reference 5020 appeals to collectors seeking a Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph with an unconventional aesthetic. Its limited production numbers and unique case shape differentiate it from more widely recognized references such as the 2499, 3970, and 5970. The 5020 represents a specific design choice within Patek Philippe's history of complicated watches, offering a distinctive alternative for those who appreciate its particular form factor.
I tried it on a couple of years ago and I found its proportions pretty much perfect. The case is simple and beautiful, the dial very well structured and legible as compared to classic PC dial layouts. My favorite version is the one with the honey-gold dial (by a huge margin), the white dial with WG markers comes second and yours third (sorry š). Best, V.
gem ! Given the amount of functions, the dial is clean (given the apertures) and the baton hour markers convey a classic Calatrava look š! šŖ To me, this reference is under-appreciated because PC as a group has gotten less attention than sports watches in the past decade or so. Same goes for other other lines such as ellipse and Calatrava. Perhaps there is a āfashionā element in Horology as well ? If so, it will become āhipā and cool š again in the future ! The issue is then how far out in the fu
....and what you did with the strap! Is it PP? If so, which color is that?
am thinking 3970, 5004 and 5970 all of which add the chronograph function to the PC.
They do look to me more yellow than purely rose or pink. Maybe a combination? Of the standard retrogrades, 5050/5059/5159 and 5496 my clear favorite is 5496. My all time favorite retrograde is 5016 but that is a MUCH more expensive watch. Also I love 5160G in white gold with the engraved case. Also much more expensive. I bought this 5020 P many years ago. They have come down to earth a bit since their spectacular rise but still quite expensive. (There is at least one 5020 P black Breguet dial ou
Iām quite drawn to the brown/honey dial version the mostā¦ just a beautiful reference: Not sure why it seems to underloved but so is the 5140 imoā¦ the older 3940 and 3970 seem to be more popular but believe the vintage crowd has different preferencesā¦ so suppose have to wait until these are considered neo-vintage even )
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