Reference Guide
Miranda revisits the Patek Philippe World Time Moon Ref. 5575G, a watch launched for the brand's 175th anniversary that quickly achieved cult status among collectors. Her article highlights why this particular reference, with its unique moon phase and world time combination, stands out as one of Patek Philippe's most significant modern creations. Miranda's insights offer a valuable perspective on a watch that continues to captivate enthusiasts years after its debut.
The world time: the quintessential Patek complication
Patek are renowned for many complications, the first perpetual calendar wristwatch, the first split seconds wristwatch, serial production of perpetual chronographs. But for me, the world time is what I adore most in Patek Philippe. The World Time complication or “Heure Universelle” ranks amongst Patek Philippe’s most sought after complications. This is hardly surprising, as this venerable complication spans a rich history over the last 80 years. The masterpieces crafted in the manufacture have become icons, enjoying a cult status unmatched- vintage Patek world timers regularly realise world record prices at auction.
Patek Philippe world time complications are intimately connected to Louis Cottier. Louis has become celebrated for developing the movement that allowed indication of the time for all 24 time zones- on a single dial.
His initial creation was a pocket watch with a movement that revealed the local time in the traditional display i.e. in the centre of the dial but with the hour and minute hands connected to a rotating 24hour ring. The names of the numerous cities around the world were engraved onto an outer dial ring. The local time zone or city would be at the 12 o'clockposition thus allowing the central dial and hands, 24 hour ring and outer city ring to display the time in every time zone in the world simultaneously. In 1937 Patek Philippe first requested Cottier to produce the world timer wristwatch. Cottier was already in collaboration with Patek Philippe and as a student of horology attained two awards from the manufacture for the quality of his work.
The addition of a moon-phase to the world time complication, was a stroke of genius. To achieve a significantly bigger and more eye-catching moon-phase display, Patek Philippe had to develop a new mechanism, the caliber 240 HU LU (a modification to the existing movement) for the World Time Moon that permitted a central moon-phase display.
The press release describes the mechanics and aesthetics of the display:
“It is composed of two extremely thin, superposed glass disks. The bottom one is decorated with the nocturnal sky using an innovative metallization process. It shows a richly detailed and very large rendering of the moon. Several craters, so-called lunar maria, are faithfully reproduced with fine gray-white gradations. This disk performs one complete revolution every 29.53 days. The upper half of the second stationary disk just above it is metallized with a precisely calculated, heart-shaped contour. This mask exposes only the visible portion of the moon on the rotating disk and covers the area that in reality is darkened by the earth's shadow.”
Cassa di Forma
They say beauty is more than skin deep and it’s certainly true with the 5575. The new complication (movement) is exceptional. But, it’s the aesthetics that really capture your heart. Its beautiful starry dial is far removed from any allegation of conservatism, it’s bold and flamboyant. The combination of the stars and big moon, is a joy, perhaps the best way I can explain it is that it’s fun, yes fun- a watch that really slaps a huge grin on your face whenever you wear it. There is a real sense of joie de vivre with 5575, very few watches can illicit such a feeling- you could say like so many vintage classics- this watch has soul. Then there is the case itself. It reminds me of a bygone era, of fantastic artistry in case design and fancy lugs. The asymmetric design is simply stunning, reminds of some vintage pieces like the reference 2537. The whole aesthetic from case to dial is just sublime.
Thanks to a collector here in London, I was able to do a review on this watch- something I have wanted to do for a long time. At least now I can say with conviction, the 5575 world time moon is one of the best modern Patek Philippe watches ever made- and dare I say it- already an icon.
The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5130, introduced in 2006, is a World Time watch that succeeded the popular reference 5110. This model maintained the distinctive World Time complication, allowing for simultaneous display of time in 24 different time zones. Its design evolved with a slightly larger case and updated dial aesthetics, distinguishing it from its predecessor while retaining the core functionality that defines Patek Philippe's travel timepieces. It was produced until 2017.
The watch features an 18k rose gold case measuring 39.5mm in diameter and 9.8mm in thickness, housing the self-winding Caliber 240 HU movement. This ultra-thin movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back, provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The dial is silver or opaline with a guilloché center, protected by a sapphire crystal. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters.
Reference 5130 appeals to collectors seeking a sophisticated travel complication from Patek Philippe. Its larger case size compared to the 5110 offered a more contemporary presence on the wrist, while its classic World Time mechanism remained a hallmark of the brand's technical prowess. The model was available in various precious metals, with the rose gold variant offering a warm aesthetic.
Amazing work thank you for sharing. Having never seen it in the metal I feel your words and photos have done an admirable job of sharing a real experience. Best,
Thank you for taking the time to put this together 🙏. I really love this piece. Excellent work!
Of a fabulous watch. An aesthetic bomb. For me, Top 10 of the last 20 years.
This is my favorite WT, from any brand; and you've given it a wonderful review. Fully deserved praise as well.
...due to price increases, lol.
And your pictures are amazing, many thanks for sharing! I've seen this model only once, during the 175th anniversary celebration. To be honest, at that time I wasn't impressed, but probably because I didn't pay enough attention to it. I really look forward to having the opportunity to see it in the flesh again.
This thread is active on the Patek Philippe forum with 16 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.
Join the Discussion →
