quattro's exploration of the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse references 3738 and 5738 offers a timely look at a classic design, including the newer olive green models. His detailed wrist shots and personal reflections on size and movement preferences provide invaluable insights for collectors considering this distinctive timepiece. This article delves into the nuances that make the Golden Ellipse a compelling, yet often debated, choice among Patek Philippe enthusiasts.
Last
December, I had the opportunity to try on
several Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse models
, references
3738 &
5738.
I
started with the
white gold model with a
grey dial,
ref.
3738/100G-012.
Gorgeous and very
elegant on my
smaller 16 cm
wrist, but maybe just a
little too small?
Case dimensions:
31.1 x
35.6 x
5.9 mm.

Next, the
rose gold model with a
black dial,
ref.
5738R-001.

It too is
gorgeous and, even though it's
slightly larger (
34.5 x
39.5 x
5.9 mm) I really
like it on my
wrist.
Side by
side: it was absolutely
impossible for me to
choose my
favorite...
During the same
session, I also tried on this ref.
3938/1, but it
didn't appeal to me
at all.

All
three watches
together.

And with my
5098P, which still had its
grey strap at the time.

A little
later, at the
Patek Philippe Salon, I was able to
try on the
platinum 5738P-001.

It's
incredibly gorgeous and, even though I'm
not particularly
drawn to
blue dials, I fell in
love with it at first sight.

But
one little thing keeps
bothering me...

... this watch has an
automatic movement and, even though I admire the
240 caliber, an
automatic watch
isn't really me
preference or what I'm
looking for...

I've been
thinking about it constantly ever
since and I'm still
stuck on this
point: an
automatic watch
doesn't really
appeal to me...

Shortly
after, I was able to
try on both the
3738/100G-012 and the
5738P-001.
This time, the
3738 had a
black strap, not brown, which
changes its
appearance quite
profoundly.

And, once
again, I was
won over by the
platinum model.

This time,
comparing them
side by
side, I felt a
preference for the
platinum 5738.

And
now Patek Philippe has just
released such a
duo with a
sunburst olive green dial and a
shiny olive green calfskin strap.

Here's the ref.
3738/100G-014...

... and the ref.
5738G-001.

On the
same man's wrist, the
3738 on
top and the
5738 on the
bottom...

... and on
two different wrists, one
female, the other
male.
I find it
striking that the
two watches
appear to be the
same size, when the small one is worn on a
small wrist and the other on a
larger one.
Two wrist shots of the
5738G-001.

As for the
last one, I have my
doubts: I would tend to think that it's a
3738, but Fratello is unfortunately
not very
clear on this point...
credit: Fratello (1 & 8), Kristian Haagen (2-4), Deployant (5), @alekswatches (6) & Swisswacthes Magazine (7)
In conclusion, I'd say I'm really struggling with the Golden Ellipse dilemma.
The model that made the strongest impression on me is the platinum one, ref. 5738P-001.
And since its size doesn't bother me, it's probably the one I'd go for... if only it had a manual movement (which, I know, would mean a larger crown).
It might sound silly, but with its automatic movement, it doesn't appeal to me enough to consider acquiring it.
What are
your thoughts about the
size, the
movement, the
metal, the
color?
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
PS: The other Golden Ellipse model that impressed me greatly is the version with a rose gold bracelet, ref. 5738/1R-001.
But unfortunately, it too has an automatic movement, of course.

About the Patek Philippe Ref. 3738
The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse reference 3738 is a notable iteration within the Golden Ellipse collection, distinguished by its self-winding movement and adherence to the collection's distinctive elliptical case shape. This reference represents a modernization of the original Golden Ellipse concept, offering a contemporary yet classic interpretation of Patek Philippe's design philosophy. It is often recognized for its refined proportions and the integration of an automatic caliber, setting it apart from earlier manual-wind versions.
This reference typically features a case crafted from precious metals, with common variations in yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum. The case diameter is generally around 33mm by 38mm, maintaining the characteristic golden ratio proportions of the Ellipse. It houses a self-winding mechanical movement, specifically the Caliber 240, known for its ultra-thin profile and integrated micro-rotor, which contributes to the watch's slender silhouette. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal.
For collectors, the reference 3738 holds appeal as a sophisticated dress watch that embodies Patek Philippe's design heritage while offering the convenience of an automatic movement. It represents a significant period in the evolution of the Golden Ellipse, bridging earlier designs with later iterations. The various metal and dial configurations provide options for collectors seeking specific aesthetic preferences within this enduring model line.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 240
- Case
- Yellow Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold, Platinum
- Diameter
- 33mm x 38mm
- Dial
- Blue, Black, Grey, Gold
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Gondolo Chronometro Ref. 5098
The Patek Philippe Gondolo Chronometro reference 5098P is a tonneau-shaped wristwatch that draws direct inspiration from the legendary Chronometro
Gondolo pocket watches commissioned by the Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau in the early 20th century. First released in platinum in 2007, followed by a rose gold
variant (5098R) in 2009, this model reinterprets the classic form with contemporary craftsmanship while preserving the Art Deco spirit of the original.
The case is crafted
from 950 platinum, measuring approximately 32.3 x 42 mm in its distinctive tonneau form. It houses the manual-winding Caliber 25-21 REC, a rectangular form movement
specifically designed to mirror the architecture of the case — visible through the sapphire case back. Unlike round calibers fitted with spacers, the 25-21 REC fills its
housing with purpose-built elegance, a detail that resonates deeply with movement purists. The guilloché dial with its intricate engine-turned pattern pays homage to the
decorative arts tradition of the 1920s originals.
The 5098P occupies a special place among collectors who value Patek Philippe's shaped watches and the historical
connection to the Gondolo & Labouriau era. Its limited production run and the deliberate use of a form-fitted movement make it a connoisseur's choice within the Gondolo
collection, offering an alternative to the more widely known rectangular references like the 5124.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 25-21 REC
- Case
- Platinum
- Diameter
- 32 x 42 mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 25m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738
The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse reference 5738 represents the white gold iteration of the model with a blue dial configuration. This reference distinguishes itself within the Golden Ellipse range through its precious metal case construction and contrasting dial treatment, positioning it among Patek Philippe's dress watch offerings.
The 5738 features an 18k white gold case measuring 34.5 x 39.5 mm with polished bezel treatment and sapphire crystal protection. The automatic caliber 240 movement provides 48 hours of power reserve, housed within a case offering 30 meters of water resistance. The blue dial is paired with a leather strap configuration.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a precious metal Golden Ellipse with distinctive dial color. In production since 2018, the 5738 offers an alternative to traditional dress watch proportions while maintaining the model's characteristic case shape. The white gold construction and blue dial combination provides collectors with a specific material and aesthetic variant within the Golden Ellipse lineup.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 240
- Case
- 18k White Gold
- Diameter
- 34.5 x 39.5 mm
- Dial
- Blue
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire